Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

First post, first pontoon boat. 1997 Grumman 24 FS, 1996 Evinrude 88, new seating, solid decking.

I searched the forums but couldn't find a dedicated thread addressing pitting repair.

I know my logs may be scrap, but I'll fight to the death to save them. Other than the pitting, this toon is in good shape and deserves a life extension. It appears to have been left in salt water without bottom paint.

There are only 2 pits that are leaking that I know of. I'd like to try and fix the pits all the way around. I've read an ehow article about using aluminum putty, sanding, then sealing with bottom paint. What about "flex seal" stuff on tv? What about "rhino liner" type stuff?

NO NO NO, get yourself to a good welder and have them fixed right

emerald_coast_tooner wrote:
I know my logs may be scrap, but I'll fight to the death to save them. Other than the pitting, this toon is in good shape and deserves a life extension.

If this is the case you are going to loose money in the long run. If the toon is truly in that good of shape, do your self a favor and save a life of aggrivation and buy new logs. If you are going to use it salt water now is the perfect time to prepair them too. Bolt them in place or have a handy man do it for you, and enjoy the boat.

One welder said thousands to fix and I should get new logs.

New logs plastic or otherwise will also cost thousands.

Then there's find a donor. Then who knows what I'm getting.

If I can do something to get me more time I would like to try it.

With limited budget, there is another option halfway between bubblegum and welding-
For about $100, you can get aluminum brazing rod and make a very good repair yourself with a bit of practice. You also need an oxy/acetyline torch with a very small tip. I ended up buying a portable rig for about $300 and love it.
Here is a link with some shots and a short video when we were brazing my railings together.
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=14007&start=75
They have held up perfectly all summer even when a big guy fell into one of my hand-built doors
That said, you have a tough decision to make. Please heed the warnings of those very smart people that have replied before me. Sometimes it is easier to fix things right. As my Grandpa taught me long ago..."You can't polish a turd" , although I think Mythbusters took that one on and did indeed manage to polish one. Maybe that spray goop will work, although I wouldn't venture too far from shore to find out.
Good luck, mate. Have fun with your new rig.

emerald_coast_tooner wrote:One welder said thousands to fix and I should get new logs.

New logs plastic or otherwise will also cost thousands.

Then there's find a donor. Then who knows what I'm getting.

If I can do something to get me more time I would like to try it.

It sounds like your mind is made up, but I will add...I said NEW logs...no "doner" required. You know what you're getting...NEW logs ready to either prep and bottom paint correctly or bolt right on. Look around they are all over the net in the +/- $2000 dollar range.

I had pin holes in my port log. took it to the boat yard and they said I should fix it with marine tex. cleaned log real well. and press the tex deep in the holes. let harden and sand, repaint with some kind of speical paint and bottom paint. worked good ,been a yard and can't see the repair. yet

I mean a year and still looks good and no leaks.

I have a buddy with a 20' triton pontoon, he used his boat in salt quite a bit and I guess dident get the trailer bunks washed good enough because he got a case of pitting also.... He was considering new tubes and welding the current ones but the price was just out there... He ended up using evercoat aluminum putty and fixed the pin holes, it has been about half a season now with no issues....I have used it also on my Jon boat and it's impressive stuff. I'd weigh all my options and see what works best for you, all the fixes will do the job and last if done correctly!

I appreciate all the replies. I know there is a ton of knowledge on this forum. I don't want any one to think I'm stubborn or rejecting advice out of hand.

Due to limited budget I just can't get new logs. I would say that's definitely in the long term budget.

The flex seal is out, it was never a real serious contender. I'm looking at marine tex for the surface pits and and gluvit for the 2 leaks, sand, clean, seal it with epoxy and bottom paint it 3 coats. That should get us on the water for a couple more seasons at least. That's all I want right now.

I'm also considering brazing, but considering it's going to be used in salt water mostly I'm leaning towards the putty and paint method because of the protective aspect of the repair using that method. Luckily we have a portable torch.

If you only have two small holes I would just put two stainless screws through it with some thread locks and that should plug it temporarily so you can enjoy the boat for the Summer.

margaritaman wrote:If you only have two small holes I would just put two stainless screws through it with some thread locks and that should plug it temporarily so you can enjoy the boat for the Summer.

Hadn't thought of that one....I dunno, certainly cheapest.

I'll try and get some pics up today.

Upon further inspection it appears that the starboard log is the one with the most pitting. It seems to be worst on the front section, where there are 2 leaks. On the port side there are sections with nothing at all. Both will get the same treatment. Marinetex in the shallow pits, gluvit in the deeper ones. Sand, clean and apply a coat of epoxy then 2 or 3 coats of bottom paint.

I know that this isn't the best method, but for our budget it's the only option that is viable and affordable. I think it will give us more time to save up for new logs and get us back on the water in just a week or so. It's also something that I can accomplish with my dad, and that's always good.

Part 1: removing water from leaking section of pontoon.
Part 2: will be raising "One Love" off the trailer.

Might want to shop around for a less expensive welder. I had 6 spots patched for about $300.

Trailers are often the culprit of pitting in salt water. PT wood bunks have copper in them. It eats away the aluminum if salt water is soaked in the carpet covering them.

Here is another option I found when dealing with my issue...


Commercial Fisherman wrote:April 16, 2009I am a commercial fisherman and fighting aluminum electrolysis has become a way of life...and everybody (fishermen) have different ways to fix it, yet we all find electrolysis never sleeps and the battle goes on...First off prevention from the start is the key...protect new aluminum with a good zinc chromate primer and bottom paint. Also sealing all gaps with 3M 5200 marine sealant is key and Zinc the hull or even hang a zinc wired to the hull over the side during short stays in the water.Right now I am restoring a 14' aluminum Lund skiff that was abandoned for ?years and has serious electrolysis cancer; 30+ pin holes, 6 1-2" holes in the actual hull itself, and lots of areas of pitting looking like the skin of an orange from the waterline down.My plan of attack; Taking the surface down to bare aluminum, rinsing the surface and letting it dry, scrubbing the surface and pitted areas with a strong vinegar/water mix and a wire brush.(there are sprays I've used in the past that oxidize the bare aluminum but I can't seem to remember what they are...breathing too much aluminum dust I guess).Then, brushing all areas with acetone and sealing all seams with 3M 5200 and filling all holes with a good marine epoxy.Next paint surface with zinc chromate primer.I am going to try spraying the bottom with typical truck bed liner and there are alot of brands out there, Rino liner, Line-X, but there about $12/sq. ft. applied by the shop.I'm going to try "Al's Bed Liner". Its do it yourself cheaper $80/gallon + $45 for the sprayer/hopper and covers an area 22 sq. ft. @ 1/16".Don't want the boat to stay in the water too long to avoid barnicle growth but grass/slime should pressure wash easy.Going to hang a zinc when not in use. Good Luck to all fighting similar problems. OUT.Michael GalliganCommercial

Ron Burgundy wrote:Might want to shop around for a less expensive welder. I had 6 spots patched for about $300.

Trailers are often the culprit of pitting in salt water. PT wood bunks have copper in them. It eats away the aluminum if salt water is soaked in the carpet covering them.

Here is another option I found when dealing with my issue...


Commercial Fisherman wrote:April 16, 2009I am a commercial fisherman and fighting aluminum electrolysis has become a way of life...and everybody (fishermen) have different ways to fix it, yet we all find electrolysis never sleeps and the battle goes on...First off prevention from the start is the key...protect new aluminum with a good zinc chromate primer and bottom paint. Also sealing all gaps with 3M 5200 marine sealant is key and Zinc the hull or even hang a zinc wired to the hull over the side during short stays in the water.Right now I am restoring a 14' aluminum Lund skiff that was abandoned for ?years and has serious electrolysis cancer; 30+ pin holes, 6 1-2" holes in the actual hull itself, and lots of areas of pitting looking like the skin of an orange from the waterline down.My plan of attack; Taking the surface down to bare aluminum, rinsing the surface and letting it dry, scrubbing the surface and pitted areas with a strong vinegar/water mix and a wire brush.(there are sprays I've used in the past that oxidize the bare aluminum but I can't seem to remember what they are...breathing too much aluminum dust I guess).Then, brushing all areas with acetone and sealing all seams with 3M 5200 and filling all holes with a good marine epoxy.Next paint surface with zinc chromate primer.I am going to try spraying the bottom with typical truck bed liner and there are alot of brands out there, Rino liner, Line-X, but there about $12/sq. ft. applied by the shop.I'm going to try "Al's Bed Liner". Its do it yourself cheaper $80/gallon + $45 for the sprayer/hopper and covers an area 22 sq. ft. @ 1/16".Don't want the boat to stay in the water too long to avoid barnicle growth but grass/slime should pressure wash easy.Going to hang a zinc when not in use. Good Luck to all fighting similar problems. OUT.Michael GalliganCommercial

thanks, there's some good info in that post. I'll ask the supply house if they have zinc primer. i saw they had 3m 5200. they recomended the marine tex and gluvit.