Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

So I've decided to add some more 2-1/2" box tubing to the entire boat. The current Z-bars are on 24" centers, So I think to add a little more comfort...at least in my mind ...I will add a box tube in between each of the crossbeam sets. Lake St. Clair here in Michigan can get pretty rough and ruthless. In total 8 box tubes, 3 in the back by the motor pod and the other 5 will fill the spacing between the rest of crossbeams. What do you all think?

That won't twist!!!!!!!!!!!!!

abrasivereshaping wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:44 am

So I've decided to add some more 2-1/2" box tubing to the entire boat. The current Z-bars are on 24" centers, So I think to add a little more comfort...at least in my mind ...I will add a box tube in between each of the crossbeam sets. Lake St. Clair here in Michigan can get pretty rough and ruthless. In total 8 box tubes, 3 in the back by the motor pod and the other 5 will fill the spacing between the rest of crossbeams. What do you all think?

So I'm new to this and these might be dumb questions but they are relevant as I will have to add some braces to mine
How do you plan to bolt the pontoons to the square tubing? Also will you use self tapping screws on the floor?

PaulinOK wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 11, 2020 3:06 pm

abrasivereshaping wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:44 am

So I've decided to add some more 2-1/2" box tubing to the entire boat. The current Z-bars are on 24" centers, So I think to add a little more comfort...at least in my mind ...I will add a box tube in between each of the crossbeam sets. Lake St. Clair here in Michigan can get pretty rough and ruthless. In total 8 box tubes, 3 in the back by the motor pod and the other 5 will fill the spacing between the rest of crossbeams. What do you all think?

So I'm new to this and these might be dumb questions but they are relevant as I will have to add some braces to mine
How do you plan to bolt the pontoons to the square tubing? Also will you use self tapping screws on the floor?

Paul,
So on my boat, everywhere that has the Z-bars will get an elevator style through bolt. Where I have the box tube I will add the TEK self tapping as needed. The box tubing will get a clearance hole drilled on top for a socket and then the thru-hole into the pontoon riser, so I cant bolt to. The center tube has a full length M-bracket that is t-slotted, I will have to pay extra attention to locate those holes in the box tube.

Ok...so I got my extra box tubes layed out in the rear and across the rest of boat. In the rear transom area, I will have the box tubing on 12" centers to match the original z-bars spacing, which was 12". I then added an additional 5 bars, to fill the rest of the crossbeam sets. Now I have to get the center tube as perfectly lined up as possible and begin laying out all my drill hole locations. I think while I have it down to a skeleton, I may replace all the OE carriage bolts that hold the toons onto the crossbeams. They are corroded real bad.

We spend a lot of time drinking beer at our favorite marina. The dock is set up with cleats on 10 foot centers. That leaves a foot or less between pontoons tied up next to each other. ALL the pontoon boats pull in bow first perpendicular to the dock and tie off tight. Boats that have the center tube sticking out have difficulty tying up to stay straight and not drift against the boat next to you. So I've never been interested in owning one of those.

But I have no information on how extending the center toon out front affects performance. The manufacturer's that do it (like JC) claim it is a benefit. But it can't be much. Otherwise every manufacturer would do it.

Your project is looking really good! I built a custom tritoon about ten years ago I believe I have a thread about it on here. I had a very detailed rebuild on the pontoon stuff forum but photo bucket made half of the pictures disappear.

The location you have your center log sitting looks good to me. The further back it is the better the boat will turn. Also it allows a larger rear deck. Just make sure you leave enough room for the motor to fully tilt without hitting the deck. On my last boat we ended up cutting the rear cross member and making it notch in a bit over the transom. My Tahoe center log is about 2' past the outter logs in the rear and almost even in the front.

As far as lifting strakes go you can copy what you have though it's probably a custom extrusion. My new Tahoe only came with 4 strakes so I ordered 2 more to weld on this spring. I don't want to talk about how much those pieces of aluminum cost lol. On my last boat I copied what Manitou uses. I was able to buy 1/8" sheet and have it bent at a local shop for cheap. I'd personally run the boat as is and see how you like it.

You mentioned lake St Clair. I made it out there a couple times last summer. Not sure how it going to be with the water even higher this summer. I launch at fair Haven and like to spend the day around harsens . Kids love passing freighters!

abrasivereshaping wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:31 am

PaulinOK wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 11, 2020 3:06 pm

abrasivereshaping wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:44 am

So I've decided to add some more 2-1/2" box tubing to the entire boat. The current Z-bars are on 24" centers, So I think to add a little more comfort...at least in my mind ...I will add a box tube in between each of the crossbeam sets. Lake St. Clair here in Michigan can get pretty rough and ruthless. In total 8 box tubes, 3 in the back by the motor pod and the other 5 will fill the spacing between the rest of crossbeams. What do you all think?

So I'm new to this and these might be dumb questions but they are relevant as I will have to add some braces to mine
How do you plan to bolt the pontoons to the square tubing? Also will you use self tapping screws on the floor?

Paul,
So on my boat, everywhere that has the Z-bars will get an elevator style through bolt. Where I have the box tube I will add the TEK self tapping as needed. The box tubing will get a clearance hole drilled on top for a socket and then the thru-hole into the pontoon riser, so I cant bolt to. The center tube has a full length M-bracket that is t-slotted, I will have to pay extra attention to locate those holes in the box tube.

That makes sense, thanks.

abrasivereshaping wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:46 am

Ok...so I got my extra box tubes layed out in the rear and across the rest of boat. In the rear transom area, I will have the box tubing on 12" centers to match the original z-bars spacing, which was 12". I then added an additional 5 bars, to fill the rest of the crossbeam sets. Now I have to get the center tube as perfectly lined up as possible and begin laying out all my drill hole locations. I think while I have it down to a skeleton, I may replace all the OE carriage bolts that hold the toons onto the crossbeams. They are corroded real bad.

Those all looks amazing, I'm curious where you plan on running your wiring? Does anyone run some conduit under the braces?

Liquid Asset wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:09 am

My new Tahoe only came with 4 strakes so I ordered 2 more to weld on this spring.s!

Liquid-
Are up planning on welding the 2 extra stakes on the outside of the outside toons? When I was boat shopping a few years ago, I had the chance to drive two nearly identical boats (in terms of size, log size, HP, et), One had strakes on the outside of the outer toons and the other didn't. Both had 4 other strakes. The difference in turning was very noticeable. The boat with 4 strakes turned like a sports car. The one with 6 needed a much bigger radius to turn. IMO, those outside strakes did more harm than good. I'll be curious to see how adding 2 more will change your boats handling.

Yes I am adding the extra strakes to the outside of the outer logs. It will make my boat the same as the "wave glider" package Tahoe offers. I've driven both and it really depends on the style of strakes. Every manufacturer uses their own extrusion. Some of the best turning boats like Manitou use 6. My boat leans quite a bit already and turns on a dime. It actually turns too good, with the power assist steering I've had a couple of passengers slip out of the seat when towing the tube aggressively lol. I won't mind smoothing that out a bit ! I'm also painting my logs just like my last boat I custom built. The strakes , side keels( option only Tahoe/Avalon offers protects logs from dock posts) and splash guard are getting polished. It makes for a really sharp looking boat. I trailer mine and use sea legs at the sand bar so it is a nice detail. Having the painted logs on my last boat was awesome. It makes cleaning so much easier than bare aluminum.

Hello All,

Haven't made too much headway with the boat...had my best helper (my son) grind all the rotted screws down and metal finish. I got some aluminum sheared and bent to make lifting strakes on the inboard side of the outer toons. I will TIG weld those on in the next few weeks. We also bought new 316 stainless hardware, to replace all the old rusty originals. Covid has put a damper on progress...Hope everyone is staying safe.

Best Regards

Safe going on our social distancing lake tommorrow 80* woop!

Been working on a bead roller last couple days....the beer-flu has really f---ed up shipping.

Liquid Asset wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 20, 2020 5:58 pm

Yes I am adding the extra strakes to the outside of the outer logs. It will make my boat the same as the "wave glider" package Tahoe offers. I've driven both and it really depends on the style of strakes. Every manufacturer uses their own extrusion. Some of the best turning boats like Manitou use 6. My boat leans quite a bit already and turns on a dime. It actually turns too good, with the power assist steering I've had a couple of passengers slip out of the seat when towing the tube aggressively lol. I won't mind smoothing that out a bit ! I'm also painting my logs just like my last boat I custom built. The strakes , side keels( option only Tahoe/Avalon offers protects logs from dock posts) and splash guard are getting polished. It makes for a really sharp looking boat. I trailer mine and use sea legs at the sand bar so it is a nice detail. Having the painted logs on my last boat was awesome. It makes cleaning so much easier than bare aluminum.

My Sweetwater has 4 and it turns tighter and more aggressively than my previous Sea Ray bowrider. I've got power assist, too and I really like how I can "snap" it around. I have to warn my passengers too because they'll be on the ground if I don't!

I drove a Bennington with strakes on the outside of the outer toons and I felt like I was driving a 18 wheeler. Nice boat, but I felt like I needed the entire lake just to do a U-turn.

The rubber trim circled in the picture: What is that called? I have been searching for this and cannot find it. I have a 95 Party Barge 21 and the trim is gone. I have found all kinds of rubber trim online but none of them are what I need.

onlybillhere wrote: ↑

Fri May 08, 2020 7:21 am

The rubber trim circled in the picture:
drilling fence bolts.jpg
What is that called? I have been searching for this and cannot find it. I have a 95 Party Barge 21 and the trim is gone. I have found all kinds of rubber trim online but none of them are what I need.

I've always heard that called the Rub Rail. Who knows whether or not that's right!