Winterizing question

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robster
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Winterizing question

#1 Post by robster » Wed Aug 31, 2011 11:46 am

O.K.. it's still summer but come November I'll need to winterize our boat engine. Tell me if this the correct thing to do. We have a 2011 Yamaha 4-stroke 150HP,we keep the boat in a wet slip year round,we don't have a trailer, in North Carolina and we do get 80 degree days in the winter on occasion , I plan on keeping the gas tank full,adding fuel stablizer to the gas tank ,keep the engine trimmed down into the water,charging the battery once a month and running the engine 10-15 minutes once every 7-10 days.
I plan on having the 100 hour service done mid September which includes changing engine oil,drive oil,replacing both fuel filters and oil filter,spark plugs. Anything else I should do? If I run my engine every 7-10 days then I don't need to fog the cylinders, right-?... I live only 15 minutes from our marina and I like to drive down and check on the boat once a week even if I can't take it out to kill spiders and pee in the lake that kinda stuff.

many thanks,
Robert
2011 Manitou OasisVP Tritoon w/Yamaha 150

captainjack
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Re: Winterizing question

#2 Post by captainjack » Wed Aug 31, 2011 12:52 pm

All sounds good other than leaving engine in the water atleast mine in the manual says leave motor trimmed all the way down an out of the water. But if you will be running it that often the rest all sounds good to me.
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oldmn19
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Re: Winterizing question

#3 Post by oldmn19 » Wed Aug 31, 2011 4:27 pm

Think you meant all the up not down! All the way down better be in the water LOL! :donno
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scfishnman
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Re: Winterizing question

#4 Post by scfishnman » Wed Aug 31, 2011 8:14 pm

The engine definitely needs to be in the tilted down position to drain the water. It will be safe from freezing tilted down in the water. Do not leave it tilted up during freezing weather.

I am in central SC. I leave my boat on the lift year around. I don't do anything to winterize it. I run it for a few minuters maybe 2 or 3 times at most between November and March. The only thing I do is put additional Stabil in the gas tank. Yamaha 4-stroke 225 hp. has gone through 5 winters so far.

I don't winterize my Evinrude Etec (75 hp) either, but do run it a few times during the winter to go fishing.

I had a 2-stroke Yamaha 115 hp that I bought new in 1992 and sold in 2008. I winterized it only the first winter (lived in Northern VA then). It still ran like new when I sold it. The only thing ever done to it was new spark plugs, replace lower unit oil anually, and replace a tilt solenoid.

Your plan sounds like more than enough. Running it as frequently as you plan to certainly precludes any need to fog the engine.
-- Aqua Patio 240DC triple toon 225 Yamaha 4-stroke
-- 17' Polar Kraft w/ 75 hp Evinrude Etec
-- Yamaha Waverunner FX Cruiser HO
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robster
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Re: Winterizing question

#5 Post by robster » Thu Sep 01, 2011 5:22 am

Thanks guys,your the best!

Cheers,
Robert
2011 Manitou OasisVP Tritoon w/Yamaha 150

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Ron Burgundy
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Re: Winterizing question

#6 Post by Ron Burgundy » Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:16 pm

What's winterizing?













Sorry, couldn't resist.
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ROLAND
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Re: Winterizing question

#7 Post by ROLAND » Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:56 pm

Ron Burgundy wrote:What's winterizing?

Ron, that's all that stuff guys up north have to do to prepare their boats for the winter... you know, they're getting ready for winter while guys like you and me and other in the south are still out enjoying our boats....we may have some hot summers, but we sure have some nice long boating seasons.... :smoke













Sorry, couldn't resist.
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evinrude2stroke
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Re: Winterizing question

#8 Post by evinrude2stroke » Fri Sep 02, 2011 9:44 am

At least us guys up north don't get any hurricanes. Oh wait.....
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Re: Winterizing question

#9 Post by belercous » Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:17 pm

Don't leave your engine in the water. A fuel stabilizer is good to have in the tank, it will keep the gas useable until next season.

What is most important is to run your engine's carbs/fuel system out of fuel. (You do not want the gas to turn to jelly/shellac over the winter. Disconnect the fuel line to the engine, and run the engine till it dies. Then "Prime" the engine and run it till it dies again. Repeat until the engine doesn't fire.

Defintely keep the batteries charged. Do NOT run the engine for 15-20 minutes at a time. That's just enough time to get the water in the sump and crankcase out of suspension. If you run the engine (at all) it should run for 45 minutes to an hour. Up to full operating temp, usually this means under a load. So long as the engine is not turned while in storage, you'll be ok. Running the engine for just a bit will just let water condense and be the first thing the oil pump picks up when it get statred again. Either leave the engine alone, or run it for over an hour. People do this in cars, and it rusts the oil pan out from the inside.

You should have no need to replace spark plugs (less than 100 hrs?) or the fuel filters unless they are the water removing kind. If your engine is "broke-in," the oil should be detergent oil [most oil is]. As this's a new engine, if the mechanic cuts the oil filter open (as a good mechanic will), don't freak on the metal shavings, it's normal. On the next oil change, there will also be some metal shavings in the oil filter. After that, you can change the filter on every other oil change.

Once the engine has been broken-in (for sure, not just close), a PTFE resin oil additive will considerably reduce friction in the engine (4 strokes only) and help extend its life. It'll need to be recharged about every 3rd/4rth oil change.

The best way to "pickle" an engine is to run it up to temp. for 45 minutes to an hour, then shut it off. Come back the next day, remove each spark-plug and shoot a 1/2 oz. of oil into each cylinder. Then replace the plugs and don't turn the engine's crankshaft until its time to run it.
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jafo9
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Re: Winterizing question

#10 Post by jafo9 » Sat Sep 03, 2011 5:24 am

Why do you say don't leave the motor in the water? If the lower unit isn't fully drained and out of the water, the water will freeze and expand. If it's trimmed all the way in/down, it won't freeze unless the surrounding body of water freezes.
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belercous
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Re: Winterizing question

#11 Post by belercous » Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:55 pm

I didn't realize it got that cold where you're at. Leaving it in the water then would make sense. I trim our engine up out of the water after every use to keep alage from growing on it.
(We take the boat out of the water in October cuz of $400/mo slip fees. It also lets us inspect the underside & clean the alage off the toons.)
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robster
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Re: Winterizing question

#12 Post by robster » Tue Sep 06, 2011 5:45 am

I'll talk with the mechanic when he does the 100 hour service next week and ask him if I need to fog the engine when we stop using the boat for the season,which will be around mid November, our Yamaha outboard is a 2010 fuel injected 150HP . On our last v hull boat with 5.7 EFI fuel injected mercruiser I used Starbrite Easy Store Start which is a fuel stabalizer and fogging oil combined and I had no problems with it,I used the Starbrite additive for several winters. http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail. ... Stabilizer
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Re: Winterizing question

#13 Post by Bamaman » Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:39 am

I can answer the question "What's winterizing?" Answer: A way to get ripped off $300 for services not really needed. Winterizing my Waverunner consists of pumping the oil out of the dry sump, changing 4 spark plugs and adding new oil/filter (WalMart carries)--$15-20 cost and 1/2 hour time. Changing the lower unit oil is a 15 minute job--and $5.

All kidding aside, South Carolina has longer Falls and Springs (than in the North), but it gets very, very cold in the Winter. Your boat is simply too nice to leave in the water throughout the Winter.

You can purchase quality pontoon trailers for $2K all over the South. A trailer would be good money spent, as your boat, including upholstery and interior, will last many, many more years if it's kept out of the weather and out of the water. Your engine will also last substantially longer if kept out of the water through freezing situations.

My boathouse kept pontoon finally needs an interior after 26 years--and I never invested in a cover.

Modern 90/10 fuels have a very short "shelf life." The gas breaks down, and gums up fuel systems. It would be better if you ran out all the fuel, and put new fuel in the Spring.
'12 Bennington 24' SSLX Yamaha 150

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GregF
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Re: Winterizing question

#14 Post by GregF » Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:40 am

I don't think you fog 4 strokes unless you are really storing them in a harsh environment. I think if that was the case I would bag the throttle body.
Fogging is to protect the crankcase of a 2 stroke. The crankcase of a 4 stroke is full of oil and pretty much sealed. My Mercury was shipped "wet" and you do not have to do anything to the crankcase before you start it up.
You just add fuel and turn the key.
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badmoonrising
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Re: Winterizing question

#15 Post by badmoonrising » Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:10 am

Actually it's recommended for 4 strokes by every manufacturer that I know of. My Mercruiser manual specifies fogging down the carb, removing the spark plugs and squirting a bit of fogging oil in each cylinder, then cranking the motor over a few turns. This prevents the piston rings from locking (corroding to the cylinder walls during extended storage). There's a fogging port on most 4 strokes for a reason.

That's what trashed the original motor in my Starcraft. The owner neglected to fog and let it sit for a few years. Motor was locked solid. Once that happens, the motor is trash. They can be freed up, but it's difficult to do and damage to the rings causes low compression and high oil consumption.

Short term storage (a month or two) probably not needed, but all winter yes.

Cheryl has a 2009 Kawasaki Vulcan and the manual specifies fogging the motor during winter lay up.
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