Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

My question is, how can I load or unload my toon without getting wet at the boat ramp. In order to get the boat deep enough for the backend to float I have to back down the ramp until my truck rear bumper is almost touching the water. If I go any shallower than that I will tear the bunk board carpet when the boat comes off of the trailer.

I go to lake Athens in Athens TX. The ramps descend at a normal rate and the lake is full.

I drive a 2007 Ford F150 and boat is a 20' Sun Tracker.

I didn't mind getting wet in the summer time. But this last weekend we went to the lake and the water temperature was 47 degrees. I know that all of you people up north really feel sorry for me, not, ha ha.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's what I love about my roller trailer, you can just roll it off, but I've heard other guys say back it in and get the bunks wet , then it will slide off.

The way I launch by myself would work too, I tie a line long enough to get me off the trailer plus 10 feet, tie the line off to the trailer,drive back till it floats and hit the brakes and let it float off, then drive forward and pull the boat to the ramp, then you can beach it or use the line to get it to the dock
and stay dry

Some ramps are just so shallow you have no choice, so get some water proof boots to stay dry during the cold stuff

The way the admiral and I do it might work for you.
We get to the ramp, she climbs on the boat while I remove the transom straps.
Then I back down the ramp and I stop with the back of the boat in the water.
I then disconnect the bow strap
I punch it in reverse until the rear tires are almost to the water, then stomp the brakes, it shoots the boat back off the trailer
I pull out of the ramp and park the truck n trailer while she brings the boat back in to the shore.

When we load, I beach, or dock if there is one, I go get the truck n trailer, and back it down the ramp until the bunks are submerged then pull forward just until about 2-3 feet of bunk is out of the water.
then I get on the boat and drive it onto the trailer, attach the bow strap and crank it up on (usually only about 1 foot or less of cranking)
the admiral pulls out of the ramp and I stay on the boat, I pass everything to her that gets loaded back in the truck
then I attach the transom straps, and we head for home

I agree with Herb on the backing in part...if you back it in as far as possible, then pull forward some it should help ease it off. Other things to consider would be bunk "slicks" (so a search) or the new vinyl-type bunk covering. Both are extremly durable and help the toons slide off easier. As a last resort, you could get a shallow water kit for your trailer. Basically, it's 10" rims/tires and low profile bunk brackets. It's a lot to swap everything, but depending on your trailer you could the toons about 7" lower to the ground.

Do you think it would help if my trailer was more level. Currently the trailer slightly points down at the nose. My thinking is if the trailer was more level that the back of the boat would be deeper in the water sooner, helping me to float sooner at a more shallow depth.

I have thought about disconnecting the winch cable just before I would get wet. But I haven't been doing that because I have heard of horror stories about boats sitting on the ramp, due to the boat sliding off of the trailer.

We have had our toon since last May, we sure have enjoyed having it. It has been a nice change of life style.

When your trailer is hooked up to your vehicle, it should always be level. Use a step up hitch that will raise the trailer tongue to level. That's what I do with my boat and '99 F-150.

I do similar to what is said above. I have Cheryl hold the ropes, undo rear straps. Back down the ramp a bit, undo the winch hook/safety strap. Back up and stomp the brakes, boat comes off easily every time.

you can try something like this
http://xtend-a-hitchnorthwest.com/

we use the man system, one drives while someone else is in the van

we use a fullsize van, like the ones in the link above, and the space between the tires and receiver is less than on regular truck. Have been thinking of something like the link or just a 3'-4' receiver extension, since you still have to stop, chuck the wheels on the boat, disconnect, extend reconnect to drop the boat.

once we had to stop at the rear door to get the boat in, any more and there would have been water in the interior

-bb

blackberg,
that looks like a good idea. Where there is a will there is a way. I don't think that is what I want to do, it is a good idea.

Just a thought for you. I have a 5' x 8' trailer that the tongue was too short. I had a welder at a metal shop add 4' of length to my trailer tongue. You might consider having your trailer tongue permanently lengthen. I bet there wouldn't be much of a difference in cost in having it permanently lengthen versus doing the extension method.

bradcox100 wrote:I have thought about disconnecting the winch cable just before I would get wet. But I haven't been doing that because I have heard of horror stories about boats sitting on the ramp, due to the boat sliding off of the trailer.

I wait til the rear of the boat is over the water, get out loosen the winch strap and let out about 8' of slack but leave it hooked. Back in and tap brakes, then pull up enough to walk on the tongue to board the boat. The front of the toons will be partially on the bunks to steady the boat while you board, then just motor over to the dock and then park the truck.

Wow...you guys that have to get that deep need a new ramp (ha ha). I had a F150 (now have the GMC 1/2 ton) and have never had to come close to getting my fender wet. How long is the tongue on your trailer?

Regardless....I have seen people (that have to launch by themselves) loosen up the winch strap then take a long line that is tied off to the front cleat then run it under the trailer and tie off to the one of the back supports of the trailer. They back it in and it floats. They then ease forward and untie and grab the rope then walk it around the dock and tie it off to a cleat on the dock then park the truck.

BobL wrote: Regardless....I have seen people (that have to launch by themselves) loosen up the winch strap then take a long line that is tied off to the front cleat then run it under the trailer and tie off to the one of the back supports of the trailer. They back it in and it floats. They then ease forward and untie and grab the rope then walk it around the dock and tie it off to a cleat on the dock then park the truck.

This--
I also launch by myself a lot and this works good.
Bunk slicks also help alot!
I went to Home Depot and bought 1x2 hard vinyl, it is in the door trim section, and covered my carpet, then sprayed it with silicone.
It takes much less water to unload now than it did before, also to load up.

why do you tow with your motor lifted up like that? doesnt that put stress on the transom? I always tow with my motor all the way down. Been doing it since 2003 never a problem.

AndI tie a rope to the front of my boat and back in the water, boat floats off and wife pulls it to the dock. I drive out.

hyper,
you can't tell from this picture, but I do have a transom saver rod that supports the lower unit to the frame. It came with the boat when I bought it last year.

When I fished by my self a lot I would sink the trailer and climb into pickup bed with tailgate down . I could then step to the ladder and climb on then reverse for loading