Page 5 of 5

Re: Trolling motor

Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 4:30 pm
by boocat
I then used the stock wiring that is already run from under the console to the plug on the bow, and I think the breaker is already there.

Re: Trolling motor

Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 4:39 pm
by boocat
You would be running parallel for 2 batteries not in "series".

Re: Trolling motor

Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 1:01 pm
by riplipper
Reviving an old but great thread. Finally ordered my I Pilot. 60" 24 volt.
I will be mounting at my front door, Tritoon, and will have a quick release mount.
Looking for tips on how some of you guys mounted them and any issues you might have had.
Dead center or off to one side of center log?
Did you add some bracing under you deck for additional support/strength?
I will have some more questions when I actually begin installation but this should get me started.
Boat is a 22 foot Harris with sofas on both sides up front, that's why I need to mount in doorway.

Thanks

Re: Trolling motor

Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 1:50 pm
by jediger
Mount off center if possible. Mine is to the starboard side of the centre toon just inside the right edge of the door. Make sure its got room to rotate 360 degrees and keep in mind that your going to be throwing prop wash that will rattle off the toon at certain vectors. More noticeable at full power.

I put some plastic clips on the bottom rail of the front fence to help keep the cord out of the way when mounted.

I have an extra piece of 3/4" plywood under the deck beneath my mounting puck.

This won't work with your sofas , but I'm considering buying a 2nd puck so I can mount the motor horizontally inside the front fence when not in use. Keeps it from being a trip hazard down the middle of the boat when I'm just running family around.

Consider a way to secure your front gate in the open position. If I'm running around I often leave the gate open since I'm pulling and dropping the motor between holes. It has a tendency to bang around in the wind if not secured. The open gate also ensures you can see the head of your motor for better directional control.

Make sure you have a spare prop! Don't ask me how I know.. :oops:

The remote is godsend!

Re: Trolling motor

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 5:29 am
by riplipper
Thanks for all the info, especially about the head being able to turn.
I may just take my door off, we never close it anyways.
I will install a quick release for easy removal so its not in my way unless fishing.


Thanks again for the tips, cheers

Re: Trolling motor

Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2021 7:10 am
by riplipper
OK guys, finally got my new trolling motor(minn kota 80lb ipilot riptide)....took almost two months to get it.
Battery wiring question, something I know little about but this thread has been very helpful.

I currently have two batteries on board my boat. 22foot, Harris, with 200 Vrod.
One is a starting battery(I assume) and the other is a deep cycle. Both get charged when engine is running.
I have a battery switch, but usually just leave it set on "both" Batteries and switch are under one seat towards the rear.
There is not enough room in that spot for another battery but could get one close for setting up 24 volt system.
I am just not sure how to wire it up the third battery??? or do I really need the third battery? Will my boat charge the third battery or do I need an onboard charger??
Thanks for any help and suggestions....cheers

Re: Trolling motor

Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2021 12:06 pm
by jediger
So you currently have a starting battery and a deep cycle "house" battery both hooked to your alternator. Trolling motors suck major juice. If the goal is to minimize batteries, I would combine all your current wiring on to the start up battery and make it run your whole boat except the trolling motor. Then parallel the house battery to a third battery for the 24v motor. There are ways to add your third battery to the alternator but they are beyond my expertise and may require additional wiring etc.

While this minimizes weight and cost, you also lose the safety benefits of having a dedicated starting battery. And it complicates the wiring since your paired batteries will be far apart.

I went the other way. House and starting battery are together at the stern and hooked to the alternator. House battery runs lights stereo, phone charger, and all the fish finders. They are on separate switches. Trolling motor batteries are together under the helm wired to an onboard dual battery charger.

Re: Trolling motor

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2021 8:07 am
by riplipper
OK guys, finally got my new trolling motor(minn kota 80lb ipilot riptide)....took almost two months to get it.
Battery wiring question, something I know little about but this thread has been very helpful.

I currently have two batteries on board my boat. 22foot, Harris, with 200 Vrod.
One is a starting battery(I assume) and the other is a deep cycle. Both get charged when engine is running.
I have a battery switch, but usually just leave it set on "both" Batteries and switch are under one seat towards the rear.
There is not enough room in that spot for another battery but could get one close for setting up 24 volt system.
I am just not sure how to wire it up the third battery??? or do I really need the third battery? Will my boat charge the third battery or do I need an onboard charger??
Thanks for any help and suggestions....cheers