Is there a "BEST" fuel hose & bulb?

[guy48065]

Motor ran fine idling while attached to the garden hose but once I put it in the lake I didn't get far before it quit. Couldn't keep it running. Fortunately it died about 50 yds from my dock and I managed to get it in without help.

I found out my primer bulb gets hard when pumped but when I press on the ball at the end of the fitting no gas squirts out. When I tested the hose assembly from my little fishing boat outboard the bulb gets hard and develops actual pressure in the hose so fuel sprays out when the ball is depressed.

This is the second new hose assembly I've put on my toon in 5 years. Are these Coast Guard-approved, EPA-compliant hose assemblies all junk nowadays? is there one that works well and will last for years? Price no object at this point.

[steve1313]

In seven seasons of boating, I've never used my primer bulb. Even when the boat has sat for months. Some "experts" will say it's unnecessary on modern engines. If you're sure that's the source of your problem you may just be able to eliminate it.

[guy48065]

Mine isn't all that "modern" (2000 Johnson).
The pressure from the bulb is needed to spray priming fuel into the carbs when the primer solenoid is activated.

I don't want to derail my own thread but you're saying modern engines can pull gas uphill, eliminate air in the line--possibly with empty carbs?

[Steiner]

Modern engines don't use carbs.
Sorry, couldn't resist.

Might be some good tips in this thread to check out....
https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-fo ... apses.html

[Marc K]

Mine isn't all that "modern" (2000 Johnson).
The pressure from the bulb is needed to spray priming fuel into the carbs when the primer solenoid is activated.

I don't want to derail my own thread but you're saying modern engines can pull gas uphill, eliminate air in the line--possibly with empty carbs?

I have never once used the primer bulb on my old 2000 Yamaha 4-stroke outboard. I would assume that if your boat made it 50 yards, it doesn't sound like a priming/starting problem, but more like a starvation issue when running under load?
Check valve backward? Line kink? Vacuum in the suction line?

[guy48065]

I'll clarify:
The boat made it laterally from the ramp to near my house on the fuel in the bowls before it quit.
I got it started in the right direction by managing to get it in gear for about 2 seconds, then drift, repeatedly till close enough to hook my dock.

I tried again later and the boat went out under full power about 200yds then died.
This time my wife was with me and with her squeezing the bulb constantly I was able to limp it back to the dock.

I'm left thinking it's either something interfering with flow thru the hose, or something with the fuel pump.
The pump was replaced last season, along with new tubing for the pulse line, fuel lines and primer lines. It ran great last year.
This spring I bypassed the oil injection and am running pre-mix. This change had nothing to do with my current issue--just was something I wanted to do. It ran fine in the driveway on the water hose.

Yesterday I made the 2-hour round trip to Walmart and brought home a new Attwood fuel hose. The new hose pressurized the line so gas squirts out when the ball is pressed in. (The previous one wouldn't do that, even tho the bulb got hard)
Starts & runs good at the dock.
I don't know how else to test it other than on the lake. Today it's raining but it's supposed to clear up in a couple hours.

[MattGent]

Use an OEM bulb and A1 sae rated fuel line.

The Mercury/quicksilver bulb is good quality, but it says it fits both 5/16 and 3/8” lines. Don’t believe that, I tried 3 different 5/16 brands I had on hand and none really fit. Works well with 3/8.

With sun exposure or E10 fuel these should be replaced every few years.

[guy48065]

SAE instead of USCG hose? Reason?
I wouldn't think the hose itself would make much difference in performance. "You had one job to do..."

I despise these "crunchy" modern bulbs.

[Rick McC.]

Your problem is that the ethanol in the fuel you’ve used in the past has turned the inner lining of your fuel line into mush, so fuel in any useable quantity can’t get through to the engine.

It really is as simple as that...

[MattGent]

The USCG refers to SAE spec J1527. Its the same thing.

The ethanol eats up the hose as stated above, and clogs up carb or EFI passages. Hose is cheap, just replace it ever few years.

[guy48065]

Your problem is that the ethanol in the fuel you’ve used in the past has turned the inner lining of your fuel line into mush, so fuel in any useable quantity can’t get through to the engine.

It really is as simple as that...

I've only run ethanol-free gas so it must be something else.
But seriously--you really think a brand new compliant fuel hose would fall apart in only 2 years with "normal" gas?
If so--this is far worse junk than I could have imagined.

[Marc K]

Per the previous owner, my 1999/2000 engine has always run regular unleaded fuel. I continue to use it too.

When I got it almost 3 years ago, it had been sitting for over 3-1/2 years on the lift in the boathouse. In the process of checking it out, I cranked it and I was shocked when it lit right off. I pulled the two 6-gallon portable tanks and had never experienced gas that smelled or looked like that!

No repairs needed so far, and the last 3' of fuel line entering the motor cowling is at least 6-1/2 old and still very flexible. (Yes, I will replace it) Yamaha's manual says that the motor is designed to handle E10. I use Stabil even though my boat gets used year-round. The boat is kept in my carport style boathouse, out of the sun when not in use.

Marc

[Rick McC.]

Your problem is that the ethanol in the fuel you’ve used in the past has turned the inner lining of your fuel line into mush, so fuel in any useable quantity can’t get through to the engine.

It really is as simple as that...

I've only run ethanol-free gas so it must be something else.
But seriously--you really think a brand new compliant fuel hose would fall apart in only 2 years with "normal" gas?
If so--this is far worse junk than I could have imagined.

No, I don’t think so if it’s the expensive hose with ethanol free gas.

Is there a fuel filter or filter/water separator in your fuel line that may need replacing or draining?

Is your engine FI, or carbed? I had the float needle valve stick closed on older outboards before, and the result was a hard bulb, but little to no gas getting through into the engine.

[guy48065]

Yesterday I made the 2-hour round trip to Walmart and brought home a new Attwood fuel hose. The new hose pressurized the line so gas squirts out when the ball is pressed in. (The previous one wouldn't do that, even tho the bulb got hard)
Starts & runs good at the dock.
I don't know how else to test it other than on the lake. Today it's raining but it's supposed to clear up in a couple hours.

Monday was very nice so I did a couple WOT runs with no issues.

I'm still a little concerned there might be more than one issue but for now it seems to "like" the Attwood hose.
I got rid of the short-lived overpriced hose so I'm still very interested in knowing if there's a superior brand out there so I have a backup on board.

[Rick McC.]

Yesterday I made the 2-hour round trip to Walmart and brought home a new Attwood fuel hose. The new hose pressurized the line so gas squirts out when the ball is pressed in. (The previous one wouldn't do that, even tho the bulb got hard)
Starts & runs good at the dock.
I don't know how else to test it other than on the lake. Today it's raining but it's supposed to clear up in a couple hours.

Monday was very nice so I did a couple WOT runs with no issues.

I'm still a little concerned there might be more than one issue but for now it seems to "like" the Attwood hose.
I got rid of the short-lived overpriced hose so I'm still very interested in knowing if there's a superior brand out there so I have a backup on board.

That’s great news! So, for whatever reason; it was the hose.