Tritoon trailering question...

[rbiederwolf]

Problem - Need to drive Tritoon (newly installed center toon) to keys - roughly 150 miles each way. Trailer guy cant have old standard pontoon trailer retrofitted with new center bunk in time.

Question:
1. Would you block up center toon temporarily at frame crossmembers (four places)
2. Is there any worry that I may cause some damage/dents to the center pontoon because I only have four load areas, versus a continuous load that I would have with bunks installed.
3. Would you trailer without any support (read below)

After center toon was installed, I did trailer boat back from dealer 250 miles each way with this trailer (no center bunk). Dealer and their mechanic did not think it was an issue since Florida traveling is flat. Boat survived no issues what so ever. Obviously the center pontoon is thru bolted at every crossmember. Main concern is that the new transom sits about 1.5 feet farther out than before.

When I return from trip trailer will get retrofitted with center bunk, but for now???????

[jimrs]

I feel like you about the blocks. I would be afraid of denting the toon. I would also worry about the weight of the motor and toon without support. Trailers ride rough and bounce a lot. If you don't believe me loosen the front strap and drive 10 miles and watch the front of the boat bouncing up and down. I would get it supported. I don't know what size motor you have but it will put a lot of stress on the back of the center toon. Again I know there are ones that disagree but again this is my opinion and I'm not going to change it. I cracked a fiberglass boat on the front support driving it 30 miles with a loose strap and it was just barely loose but the boat bounced and hit the support and cracked the hull. This was on a pretty smooth highway.

[rancherlee]

Your boat/trailer handled the motor/transom pod dangling in mid air. An extra 200# of aluminum connected to EVERY cross member should actually be easier on your pontoon IMO then the previous setup with all the weight hanging off the 5 or so cross rear members. I see alot of heavy highend triples being towed on 2 bunk trailers.

[BoatCop]

Your boat/trailer handled the motor/transom pod dangling in mid air. An extra 200# of aluminum connected to EVERY cross member should actually be easier on your pontoon IMO then the previous setup with all the weight hanging off the 5 or so cross rear members. I see alot of heavy highend triples being towed on 2 bunk trailers.

I have a support bracket going from my trailer to the engine to keep the weight of the engine bouncing from stressing the welds on the transom pod.

Edit: When I've done boat inspections on pontoons the most common non-collision damage I've found is cracks and distortion along the welds on the transom pod. Most likely from the engine bouncing while it's being trailered.

[rancherlee]

Your boat/trailer handled the motor/transom pod dangling in mid air. An extra 200# of aluminum connected to EVERY cross member should actually be easier on your pontoon IMO then the previous setup with all the weight hanging off the 5 or so cross rear members. I see alot of heavy highend triples being towed on 2 bunk trailers.

I have a support bracket going from my trailer to the engine to keep the weight of the engine bouncing from stressing the welds on the transom pod.

Edit: When I've done boat inspections on pontoons the most common non-collision damage I've found is cracks and distortion along the welds on the transom pod. Most likely from the engine bouncing while it's being trailered.

I didn't mention the lower unit to trailer support as I thought everyone used one on bigger that 25hp outboards. You mean people don't use supports <- that's your transom with support.

[Liquid Asset]

I haul my tri toon on a 2 bunk trailer. I do use a transom saver but that's becasue I have to tilt the motor for ground clearence and I don't want to stress the trim system with bouncing. The added weight of the new long is neglegable due to the fact it's spread over the length of the boat. The third log is much stronger than just the original transom hanging from a few crossmombers. Trailering any boat is hard on it but that's just the way it is. For a trip or two it's going to be fine until you add a center bunk.

[ronb]

Great, now you guys made me fell like a dumbass, I don't support the motor/transom with anything, it just dangles out there. Why don't y'all tell me, I've posted lots of pictures. Guess it is time to get something built.. Luckily I ended up with my old winch post that already has (2) 2.5 ft long padded boards just like the existing bunks, now just to trim/modify/remount. I was wondering what to do with that thing...



thanks for the idea!
-ron

[rbiederwolf]

Your boat/trailer handled the motor/transom pod dangling in mid air. An extra 200# of aluminum connected to EVERY cross member should actually be easier on your pontoon IMO then the previous setup with all the weight hanging off the 5 or so cross rear members. I see alot of heavy highend triples being towed on 2 bunk trailers.

I have a support bracket going from my trailer to the engine to keep the weight of the engine bouncing from stressing the welds on the transom pod.

Edit: When I've done boat inspections on pontoons the most common non-collision damage I've found is cracks and distortion along the welds on the transom pod. Most likely from the engine bouncing while it's being trailered.

Any chance of getting a picture?? When I trailer I tilt the engine up and use the support braket on the engine. Not sure what you mean by an additional transom support braket.

Thanks

[jimrs]

Here is one from Bass Pro Shop.

http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-O ... 274/112647

[BobG]

No support under my center toon, and I have had no problems with it.

I put the motor support on, but not to the trailer, to the bottom of the middle tube!