How do you tie your toon to the dock?

[sammyphsyco]

So how do you tie your toon up at the dock? Don't have a boat yet but the plan is to get a slip at one of the marina's on the river when we get one next season.

[GregF]

It really makes a lot of difference what you expect to happen to the boat but the short answer is you use sturdy dock lines, typically 1/2" or greater and it is handy if you have specific lines made up just for tying to the dock. Then you get it the same every time and get it done quickly.
From that point you have to decide how well protected your dock is and how much you can allow your boat to move.
There are all sorts of different types of lines you can run, depending on what forces you are trying to counteract.
I usually have my boat on the lift but when I am just tying to the dock, there are already lines there with spliced eyes in them to drop over the cleats or half hitch through the cleat, depending on if it will be attended.
If I am tying up for a storm I will have bow and stern lines on all 4 corners, spring lines and maybe some snubbers.

[Mr Geets]

Good idea about 4 corner tie up. Never thought of that.

[Texoma Toon]

If I am leaving mine in the water overnight, I always do the 4 corner tie up with 3 bumpers on both sides and one bumper on the bow.

[playcat]

In my slip I use two lines from cleats on the stern across to the cleats on the slip walkways. on the bow I cross the lines: One line runs from the port side of the boat to the cleat on the starboard side walkway. This one has an eye splice that i just put thru the base of the cleat and then around the horns. The other bow line runs from the starboard side to th port side walkway - this one I tie off so I can pull it snug and snug up the other line at the same time. Lastly, I run a spring line from the starboard bow to a cleat about halfway down the slip. this line keeps the bow of the boat from touching the pier.

To leave the slip, I start the engine, release the stern lines from the boat, leaving them on the pier. Next i get on the pier and take in all the lines (the bow lines stay on the boat), stepping back on thru the bow gate. Then its off we go!

Returning is almost as easy - once in the slip, if its calm I can let the boat idle while I grab the stern lines, just because they are close to the helm. If it is windy or the current is strong, I will ease the boat all the way into the slip and leave it in gear at idle; that holds the boat in place while i walk forward and tie off the bow lines. I drop the one with the eye splice over its cleat, then pull the other one tight, which snugs up both lines. This takes about 20-30 seconds, without rushing.

[BobL]

Short term (i.e., going into a restaurant for a couple of hours) - look at wind and current and attempt to find a spot where either/or will keep my boat away from the dock. Bumper BOTH sides in case it gets pushed against the dock on one side and to prevent other idiots from contacting it on the other side. Tie off front and back to dock cleats (see NOTE below).

Long Term (I keep mine in the water over the summer) - I do the 4 point tie up with plenty of bumpers.

NOTE - I have started to wrap around the pilings and tying off (single knot) THEN I do the cleat. I know this is overly anal but I have seen cleats fail and pull out so by tying to the pilings first, it takes all the force off the cleat.

PS - my home lake is closed, fresh water, with fairly consistant water levels (not tidal) so your techniques will vary depending on your location. The only thing we have to worry about is strong storms and being in Louisiana, that happens quite often.

[belercous]

I tie up on 4 points, to cleats on the dock. Keeps the boat steady. I tie off about 1' away from dock on the port side so I can plug in shore power. (Port is where I keep my bumpers) I mark the ropes with permanent ink (a Sharpie will do) so anyone can tell where to tie the boat off. The mark comes up to the cleat, tie off there & all is good. Works great no matter which point is tied first. A 4 point tie-down makes a big difference over 3, it's rock-steady.

[Bamby]

Under normal water conditions we just utilize two heavy dock lines one front and back. These lines are set somewhat sloppy allowing the boat to move around a bit when in port. Normally the river current will always hold the boat tight against the dock and bumpers with little real noticeable gap in between, but there are exceptions.

A river is a living flowing entity and things such all kinds or debris can at times make it way down the river. I want my boat to be able to move out a bit to allow hopefully all of it to pass between the boat and the dock and on down river. It actually works because I've been on board and have witnessed it passing on through! Another reason at least for us our docking area isn't a restricted no wake area. When a wake-maker such as a cabin cruiser passes by being tied up too tight can really stress out both the dock lines and your cleats. Our boat and floating dock often roll with the offending wake sort of opposing one another and if your tied off to tight it will put an enormous amount of stress to both the boat and dock hardware and the lines. Allowing some slack allows this movement to elapse through and and ebb back to calm without thoroughly testing out the breaking point of my lines or hardware.

But in reality there may actually not be a perfect method that unilaterally applies everywhere. Allowances for local water conditions need to be considered and applied and a walk down the dock where you intended to port observing how others have tied may provide you with a starting point of what will work for you at your dockage or slip.

[screwball]

2 ropes on the port side to the dock cleats. 4 bumpers between the boat and dock. Our marina has a floating dock, so river level isn't an issue. Sheltered from the wind by homes on the east side, sea wall (River wall??) on the west. When we are at the vacation house we leave her in the water, when we come home it fits in our garage. 3" height clearance AFTER we removed the windshield.