Tritoon, lifting strakes and load guides

[BenniTri]

I have spent hours going through all the old posts and threads and can't find anything that address or show pics of my specific question/issue; so if it is out there I apologize.
I am wondering about load guides for a tritoon trailer that will "allow" for lifting strakes. I have a 08 Bennington 2575RCW with ESP. I've seen all the posts on the 4c-innovations system and others, but haven't seen anyone that uses any of these and has a tritoon with lifting strakes.
I am worried about hitting the lifting strakes on the load guides..... Mostly dealing with river current and wind when trying to load. Can usually get on the trailer with 1 of 2 tries but then once we pull out of the water the back part of the toons are off just enough that you can't even tell until we are pulled out of the water.

Thanks!

[pond tuuunes]

I tried them with mine, and they are a pain in the a$$ loading on steep ramps. The problem is the strakes are wider then the tune, and on a steep ramp, when you pull out the trailer will come up to the strake, and hang up. Causing the guide to bend down flat. JT

[Liquid Asset]

I have the 4 post guides on my trailer and strakes on my logs. When I first added them I had an issues when I loaded. It was maybe the 3rd or 4th time out with them added to the boat so it confused me as to why the boat wasn't sitting flat when I tried to pull out. Long story short I just had to raise the rear guides higher to where they almost touch the bottom of the boat when it's sitting on the trailer. With the added guide height and paying attention to how deep the trailer is it hasn't been a problem. One time in a strong wind it wanted to sit on top of the guide . I just pulled the trailer out a bit and the boat dropped right in place. So to answer the question ,strakes are not a problem you just have to pay a little more attention when loading. If it's real windy or a strong current just don't sink the trailer deep and use the winch to pull the boat. Once your on the trailer you can always back in a little deeper if needed to winch it the rest of the way.

[sunnyside]

The guide rails have worked flawlessly with my Bennington ESP (tritoon and strakes). I purchased the guide rail kit from Shorlandr Trailer which are simply 13' long 2x4's covered with carpet and bolted on outside of upright guide posts on left and right side of center toon. The outer toons slide along the guide rails without the lifting strakes touching the uprights. Looks like the 4C Innovations setup without the angle. Kit was about $150 but if I was to do it again I'd simply make the rails myself and attach them to guide posts I have from previous trailer.

Another option is to add more guide posts on left and right side of trailer. I had 4 posts on the left and 4 posts on the right side of my previous trailer which worked quite well with the South Bay tritoon with strakes. The additional guide posts keeps the boat going straight on the trailer avoiding problems you are having and which I had before adding the guide posts. IIRC, the guide posts were less than $20 each.

[COTTS4x4]

Heres mine, Its just 2" box tubing with the boards attached to them then up against the outside toons. They work well, but I may redo them and make them a little longer. The trick seems to be not getting the trailer in too deep. Ive been on a couple steep ramps to where I dont back the trailer all the way in and bring the boat up to it then back the trailer the rest of the way down. I think a longer board (toward the front) will help fix this problem, but it works perfect on most ramps. The heat index was 122 degrees here today so the boards wont be replaced anytime soon

[RcgTexas]

From my personal experience, not backing the trailer in too far is the best bet. Only far enough to get her in the bunk boards and in the guides.......then have the driver ease back until you can run up to the stop. Takes two operators but is a better plan.

cotts4x4 has it right as far as I'm concerned.

[ToonGuy]

You don't need them. I've agree with a few of the statements here...deep ramps you will hang up on them, and the biggest mistake people make is backing in too far. I can see their benefits with a bi-toon and less loading experience, but many years of loading tri's I personally see no need. These new tritoons with 25" or bigger tubes find their way on to the bunks just fine. I loaded my 30' tri a dozen times with no issues, but when I loaded it on the buyers trailer with guides it hung up on the rear guide just enough to knock the board right off. IMO...save that $ for another upgrade.

[kryptonite]

My buddy has a newer suntracker tritoon with strakes. The problem with it, is that the strakes are very large and are welded on very low. So the bottom on the toon has no cradle, so to speak, to it. His bulk boards almost sit flat, so there is nothing to keep the boat centered on the bunks. Very poor design in my mind. It would take him forever to get it centered on the trailer, so we build a set of guides for it.

[rhorne]

From my personal experience, not backing the trailer in too far is the best bet. Only far enough to get her in the bunk boards and in the guides.......then have the driver ease back until you can run up to the stop. Takes two operators but is a better plan.

cotts4x4 has it right as far as I'm concerned.

This is the way I load mine. Get the nose on the trailer, keep in gear and as wife backs down tritoon goes up on the trailer. Good luck.

[STEVEBRENDA]

Here are a couple of links:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10090&hilit=GUIDES&start=0

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6193&hilit=GUIDES&start=0

I have been boating for over 35 years. Our triton is by far the worst boat to load on a trailer that we have ever owned. The post guides were the best thing we came up with.

without hem, if you put he trailer in deep, then the boat drifted out of alignment. If you pulled the trailer out, then it was impossible to winch on, even wit ha power loading assist.