Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

I am going to change both of these out soon, and just wanted to ask if there is any stupid little mistake I can make. Seems like the simplest tasks sometimes have hidden obstacles.


A couple questions I thought of...

Do I need a torque wrench for the plugs or can I just use a regular wrench?
Do I have to fill the new water seperator filter with fuel before I install it?

#1 Probably should but I never have. I'm not a good example to follow. I'd hate to strip one out.

#2 I just installed mine and then pumped the bulb to get gas to flow through the filter. It should have instructions with the filter.

Use a little dab of antisieze on the plug threads, wipe it into the threads and off if the part that sticks into the cylinder.

I usually just pump the ball until the water separator is full. It is a lot of squeezes tho. Don't be surprised if the motor is a little rough for a few minutes until you get all of the air out of the system.

I don't notice it on my 4 stroke because the vapor separator tends to buffer up the gas and reject the air better than carbs did.

Yep, I concur on the anti-seize. Removing a plug and noticing the threads came out too is never good.

I've never filled water separating fuel filters with fuel first, never been an issue.

I've NEVER used anti-seize on ANY spark plug my entire life - and we're talking about - oh - hundreds of engines including aircraft. No issues with a plug ever "galling".

The issue with anti-seize is that it is a lubricant - and can easily lead to over torquing the plugs. Unless it is a HIGH TEMPERATURE anti-seize it can cook in the holes and seriously gum up the threads leading to all kinds of nasty hell. High temp stuff usually contains a lot of nickle - much more so than the average. It is specifically labeled.

If you insist on using a lubricant one half drop of motor oil is more than sufficient - it will wick into the threads. I don't recommend it - ever.

Just HAND TORQUE the plugs in CLEAN holes until the are snug. You can feel the washers "crush". Then 1/4 turn more and you are DONE. If you didn't tighten them enough they will leak which is no big deal - just give them another slight turn.

Don't even think of using a torque wrench unless it is a high end unit and RECENTLY CALIBRATED.

The first time you have one come out with the aluminum treads attached to the plug, you will start. (My first motor cycle)

LOL. Looks like round one has begun.


...and I thought this was going to be a boring thread.

I have no idea how changing these out is going to work. I mean, using spark plugs as a water separator filter? Must be a Southern thang.

Do what you think is right. I do notice most of these guys live in a place that has no corrosion. They have painted steel trailers and they use steel hardware on their boats with no problems.
Where we are, double dipped galvanized only lasts 5 or 6 years and lots of stuff corrodes up that isn't supposed to.

I put anti seize on everything I ever want to take apart again. It is cheap insurance.

Yep, being a mechanic in the past I have seen too many ruined heads caused by shade tree mechanics to take the risk on my personal stuff. You can invest a buck in anti-seize, or buy new heads.

Same deal with fogging oil. It costs a few bucks and can save your engine.

And yeah..painted steel trailers are good for a few years around here at most.

I was able to get by on my old Benelli by having a machine shop shoot a helicoil in the head. I ran it for a couple years like that and sold it

I agree, use the Anti-seize on the treads. I being a Drag Racer and Diesel mechanic for over 28 years have used it and it works. You dont want the spark plug threads coming out with the plug. And on a Alumiun head that is hot they will come out very easy. Just ask anyone with a Old VW!!!!

as for the water seperator---never used one on my boat. Guess we dont need it in Georgia!

And our trailer last a lifetime here. The trailer will outlast the boat 100 times over!!!

Looks like anti-seize is winning, but I'll be carefull not to overtighten like RonK warned about.

Hyper, is non-ethenol gas readilly available in your neck of the woods? That might explain why there is no water seperator.

Hate to go against the grain here, but I have done a lot of motors, not outboards, but just about every other kind and have never used anti-seize on a spark plug in my life! I have never seen it recommended by any mfg of any motor either.

I did a little web surfing and this topics has been discussed on several other forums as well. There dosen't appear to be consensus for either side of the argument. Some say they use it, some say they don't, and there are even some owner's manuals that say use it, and other manual's that say don't use it.

There are a few bullet point's that do come up over and over -

- definately don't use anti-seize that contains copper
- use only a small amount and make sure it dosen't drip into the cylinder or onto the electrode.
- people that change plugs frequently typically do not use it, but if the plugs aren't change for years then people do use it.
- be sure not to overtorque if using anti-seize.