Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

Well, that's twice in 4 years I've tossed my $box anchor overboard and lost it. Pissed. It yanked the rope tight, tied to my boat, floated for 1/2 hour and then wondered why I was drifting. Pulled the anchor and just the rope came up. Don't use a snap clip or what ever they are.

Yep lost my river anchor at LOTO last year. Had one of those spring loaded clips on it, figured it was a once in a life chance that something would trip it open. But now hearing someone else I better change to a clevis style connector.

Standard is about 6 feet of chain with a shackle on each end.
Tie an eye on the rode with a thimble in it so it won't wear through.

Last time I was out it was whitecaps. This season I also started to put out a decent ratio of 5:1 plus with 6 feet chain on anchor. What a difference! Now I am sure everyone knows this - but the switch to soft pliable nylon rope from yellow poly was another huge improvement. Much nicer to handle and fewer tangles. Boat on!!!!

About the only thing poly rope is good for is a ski rope, simply because it floats. Maybe OK for a heaving line but it is usually so stiff and easy to tangle that you won't be heaving it that far.

kryptonite wrote:Yep lost my river anchor at LOTO last year. Had one of those spring loaded clips on it, figured it was a once in a life chance that something would trip it open. But now hearing someone else I better change to a clevis style connector.

We have found at least a dozen anchors, with no ropes attached over the last 5 years while snorkling on shoals. Couldn't figure it out at first, then I played around with one of those snap clips on an anchor. Snap your clip to your anchor then rotate the clip about 180 degrees, you will find that it will un-clip itself with very little effort. Tie direct or use a shackle 2 connect 2 your line.

While I use the dreaded poly rope, I do NOT use a clip.

They say my digger anchor does not need a chain rode, and so far that has proven to be true.
I tied an eye splice through the anchor eye.

Now for those of you that are unfamiliar with splicing rope, it all depends on the type of rope. If you've got twisted rope (basically three big fat strands twisted around each other) you have to back-braid it to make an eye splice. For hollow braid, you have to use a fid, to open the braided tube, and thread the tag end back into the center of the braid. I had the hollow braid, so I fed about 18 inches back in. When you pull on the rope, it acts like "chinese handcuffs" and squeezes the tag end inside the hollow braid. Being a "belt AND suspenders" kind of guy, I also ran heat-shrink tubing over the entire length of the splice. It's worked great so far.

Even on our 20 Southbay, we use 6' of the vinyl coated chain, and have very good results getting it set even in less than perfect conditions. I keep the anchor rode rolled up on one of those plastic things that you wind extension cords up on. It makes storage under the seat very neat. When we go anchor at the local beach/sand bar, often times as you know, it is tight quarters, and setting the anchor if your crew isn't ecperienced can be tricky. I've started using my cajun anchor first (an old stainless boat shaft, sharpened at one end, and an eye welded to the other for the rope), and then setting thre regular anchor. I slide the cajun anchor through the center eye on the front of the boat, and when we are in the exact place, I have one of the "crew" drop it to the bottom. It is like having a spud. Then, I can get in the water and set the regular anchor. It really takes the pressure off getting anchored in a good spot.

pontchartraintoon wrote:Even on our 20 Southbay, we use 6' of the vinyl coated chain, and have very good results getting it set even in less than perfect conditions. I keep the anchor rode rolled up on one of those plastic things that you wind extension cords up on. It makes storage under the seat very neat.

We use the same setup -- 6' vinyl coated chain and the anchor rode is rolled up on the orange extension cord holder. Makes it really easy to store under the seat.

Be careful with that poly rope in the sun and chuck it as soon as you see it starting to deteriorate. It will fail suddenly. About half the fenders I find floating have a short piece of poly line attached to them that rotted off or came untied. Poly doesn't hold knots well either until you put a real strain on it, then will either slip or lock up so they won't come undone.
When I first started boating here I bought 100' of the soft 3/8" poly line like you see at the home stores. Within a year, line that was in the sun started fraying and you could break it with your hands.

On my larger anchor I use a 6' piece of chain.

On my smaller anchor ( I use when it's not windy and we are just swimming in a cove), I found a bungee cord-rope deal that is 3' long and stretches to 6'. Basically a mini anchor buddy. It works very well if you don't want to lug around the chain. Takes the small shocks out of the line that keeps the anchor set.

Although not specifically made for this application, I've used these for all sorts of things like quick anchor and tube rope attachments. About 5000# capacity.

http://www.backcountry.com/black-diamon ... -carabiner

Drago wrote:Although not specifically made for this application, I've used these for all sorts of things like quick anchor and tube rope attachments. About 5000# capacity.

http://www.backcountry.com/black-diamon ... -carabiner

I keep a locking biner on the "boat end" of my anchor line - plus I keep one on every one of my heavy lines on the boat.

I think I know where it is. I'll probably go looking for it. No spring clips anymore for sure. I think its about 7 - 10 feet deep. I'm not sure how much light there is down there. I was pissed and in a hurry and didn't bother looking.

Do you have a big magnet? You might not be able to pick it up but it might help you find it.