Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

A couple board members kindly asked me what problem I'm having with my new 2012 Berkshire CL210 LTD pontoon boat over in the New member section. I didn't want to post the problem there in case it was the wrong forum.

Here is basically what I've got...it's a douzy.

As stated, I have the Merc 60HP Bigfoot EFI 4 cycle and I was cautious during the 10 hour break in by varying the RPMs, not running it WOT.. etc. Once the breakin was over, I "opened her up" and the boat seemed relatively slow for what I was expecting. And the most I could get out of the boat was 3500rpm on the tach. I wasn't sure what WOT was until I read 5500-6000 on the Mercury website. I don't have a speedo but took my GPS on board and only got 13mph...I emailed Berkshire and they thought my tach might be off, but that was before I confirmed the low speed with my GPS. I'm figuring 3500 and 13mph match up...tooo low!
Now Beaver Dam Lake is a shallow lake..it's max is only 7 feet during good times and the water level is pretty low because of drought conditions. So we have hit bottom a couple times and even hit a hard object twice. We weren't going all that fast at either time, but ya never know. The prop does have some nicks(not gouges per se) but there isn't any visible damage to the lower unit.
Here's what I know and what I've done so far.
The prop is a Black Max and is a 14in dia x 13p.
I bought a new Black Max to try which is a 14dia by 10p...will try that this coming weekend.
When changing the prop, I'll also spin the prop and check the shaft for straightness and fore/aft play. I'll also check out the parts of the flo-torq hub and such in case they did absorb a "hit".
My motor is mounted in the 3rd hole out of 5...which places it directly in the middle, heighth wise. I'm wondering if I need to raise it, but will take it out this weekend after the prop changeout and see where the anti-ventilation plate sits when the boat is up on plane.
Last weekend, I took the boat out to the middle of the lake and put it in neutral. I then used the button to disengage the drive and throttled up. To my surprise, the motor rpms did go into the 5500-6000 range. So, that kinda confirmed the tach is working fine, the motor attains the speed--but not when coupled to the lower unit.
I have a lift on order that should be delivered in another week or so. I'll then be able to get the boat out of the water and check over the pontoons real well and make sure there is no damage..although just sitting in the water, they look fine.
So, I'm dumbfounded on why I'm 2000rpm short of WOT. It's not like prop pitch will take care of THAT amount.
I read about a bunch of tests on my motor coupled up to various Toons and all of them got between 20 and 22 mph. Mine should be in there also...but is nowhere near that right now..

I'm not expecting miracle answers, but if you had a suggestion or two on what's next, I'd like to hear it. The dealer I bought the boat from is in Illinois. They delivered the boat 180 miles..and I don't have a trailer. If it did have to go in for service, I'd have to go to a local dealer up by the lake. I'm hoping the knowledgeable folks here can point me in the right direction if I can't get it figured out by this weekend. The last thing I want to do is harm the new motor.
Thanks for asking.
Wiggydotcom

13 pitch is too much and if that is a heavy 21 footer even the 10 pitch may be marginal. I ran an 11 pitch with your motor on a light 20 foot boat, no furniture, and it was topped out around 5500-5600.
Even so, I had a 15 pitch on it when I got the motor and I still got 4800. I am thinking you may have a rigging problem with the motor. Maybe the throttle cable is adjusted wrong and it is not really WOT.

I would run it over to a shallow spot where you can stand on the bottom and look at the motor. With it off, have someone advance the throttle all the way and watch the linkage to see if it is opening up all the way.
When it is back to the neutral position there is an arrow on the ramp/track that should line up with the roller on the actuator roller.

Also look over the boat well to be sure you are not dragging something in the water that is slowing you down.

If all of that is OK, I would start thinking that you may have a fuel restriction or something.

You can take the boat to any Mercury authorized dealer and have them look at your motor. I don't think you have a boat problem, it sounds like a motor problem. Even a bad prop will rev to where it should be, nicks or no nicks.
Find out where your closet Merc dealer and talk to them.

This is the cable adjustment



This is the link adjustment (it should have been right from the factory but YMMV)

yep, defiantly have an engine issue. Either the engine wasn't setup right, OR the engine is running down a cylinder. 14x10 or 14x11 prop should be appropriate for your use but you SHOULD still be able to spin that 14x13 up to ~4200-4500rpm If the engine is running right.

My suntracker came with a Merc 60 HP Bigfoot before I upgraded. 5500-6000 RPMs for WOT is correct for that motor with a 14x11 prop. I can tell you from experience that 13 MPH is not that far off, and i could only dream of 20-22 MPH. With 2 ppl and normal load I averaged around 15-18 MPH when I had my Bigfoot. Possibly a faulty tach

My 60 would get me over 20 with a 14x11.

Ok, thanks all for the good info! As an electrician at Cat, I've learned to do the easy(and cheapest) stuff first. The throttle cable check and adjustment sounds like a great place to start.
I guess when I was able to disengage the lower unit with the throttle button and attain 5500 to 6000rpm, I figured it should do the same with the lower unit engaged. I guess that was bad thinking. So it's not uncommon to drop 2000rpm between the LU being coupled or uncoupled?

The following Merc site shows test results of this motor with various toon setups...after following the link, click test results to see what speed was attained, wind conditions, fuel level, etc. Kinda interesting if you're bored.

http://www.mercurymarine.com/engines/ou ... kes/40-60/

Since my boat is 21.9 ft and has a dry weight of 1730, I'm still hoping for 20mph...anything above that is a plus.
I'll post what I find(next Monday) but won't be able to go up to the lake till this weekend.

Lastly, is there a good source for Mercury Service manuals for this motor?

Thanks,
Wiggydotcom

wiggydotcom wrote:Ok, thanks all for the good info! As an electrician at Cat, I've learned to do the easy(and cheapest) stuff first.

an electrician at CAT hey? I have a few bones to pick with you on Mining Machinery, our 793C trucks and D10 cats have had quite a few electrical issues. Our newer stuff has been good though, and the new 793F are sweet..... Former Cat (Ziegler) mechanic turned equipment/truck operator!

rancherlee wrote:

wiggydotcom wrote:Ok, thanks all for the good info! As an electrician at Cat, I've learned to do the easy(and cheapest) stuff first.

an electrician at CAT hey? I have a few bones to pick with you on Mining Machinery, our 793C trucks and D10 cats have had quite a few electrical issues. Our newer stuff has been good though, and the new 793F are sweet..... Former Cat (Ziegler) mechanic turned equipment/truck operator!

I don't really work on the tractors. I only fix the machine tools and their computer numerical controls(CNCs) that machine the sub assemblies of the tractors. Most of the stuff I work on is G&L out of Fon du Lac, Cincinnati Machines...all under the MAG banner now...and PAMAs(Italian machines).
Cat does build good long lasting heavy equipment but for yrs, their problem has always been Early Hour Down Time...after the kinks are out, they hold up well...and the EHDT is getting better--usually the result of loose fittings/bolts, etc..
For the record, the mining trucks are made in Decatur and the D10s in Peoria. We make Large and Medium Wheel Loaders and Excavators in Aurora, IL.
But go ahead and blame me, I have big shoulders

I'm retired from the heavy equipment business too. I was on the financial end.

I agree with Greg F. You guys are something else--even throwing out the diagrams. I'd start with the throttle linkage.

Bamaman wrote: I agree with Greg F. You guys are something else--even throwing out the diagrams. I'd start with the throttle linkage.

Couldn't agree more...I printed out the diagrams. Thanks, Greg!

I still have my shop manual for the 60 Merc and I have the manual for a new F70 Yamaha. I will keep copying pages until I get the cease and desist

I had great luck with the 60 (10 years 3075 hours) It is a solid motor.
The Yamaha is basically the same block, different screw on parts tho.