Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

Just wondering what goes into winterizing an outboard 2stroke motor... The marina I slip at sent out An email today for prices... Winterizing a 2stroke is $116, and then to change the impeller and lube/grease the lower unit, it's an extra $189... Is this too much? I am leaving my boat in the slip thru the winter, and had plans to take it out at least 1-2 times every couple of weeks to keep the battery up and motor running. I'm a newbie to all this so any info is appreciated!!!

They don't sound like bad prices to me but what are they doing for the money?

Winterizing a 2 stroke is really not much of a job. Many will unhook the fuel line and let the engine run at an idle. They often spray the carbs with fogging oil when the engine starts to stumble (running out of fuel.)

Even though winterizing is a 10 minute job, most marine mechanics will charge you an hour's labor to look at a boat. I put in a new set of spark plugs at season end.

You have not said much about how old your engine is, and how long it's been since the impeller has been replaced--and since the lower unit grease was changed.

It's especially important to have the lower unit pressure and vacuum tested from time to time to check out the condition of the seals. This can save you from having to replace the lower unit. (I was a victim of a bad lower unit this year.)

Another issue with winterizing is 90/10 gasoline. Some say fill the tanks completely and use a fuel stabilizer. Some say keep minimal 100% gasoline in the tank a fuel additive. Then, fill up with fresh gas in the Spring. The jury's out on how to handle fuel for the winter, as either way is probably okay.

The best indication of a bad seal is water in the lower unit oil.
If there is some water (milky) it is usually the prop seal (ugly) or the shifter seal (easy). If it is just full of water, it is the main shaft seal under the water pump. (still not hard). If you are doing the top side seals you are usually better off replacing the housing and seal kit, at least in salt water. Usually the lower water pump housing will be pretty ugly by the time the seal goes bad. It is just 4 more screws on a Mercury once you get the water pump apart and it comes with all of the gaskets.

cwag911 wrote:They don't sound like bad prices to me but what are they doing for the money?

That would be my question also. Certainly easier than a 4 stroke but some have diff ideas on what a two stroke winterization consists of. I usually ask how long will it take when getting a price. That way you can figure the labor cost plus parts and come up with what would be a fair price.
doc

My 2stroke E Tec winterizes in 30 seconds.

No need to winterize for me... I go out as much (if not more) in the winter as I do in the summer.

Why do you need to winterize if youre taking it out all winter?. i would change the lower oil add some fuel stabilizer and call it a day.

I have a 90hp mercury force. here is part of the email they sent me. I'm pretty sure that i can winterize it myself, but like i said, i plan to take it out at least 1-2 times every couple of weeks so is it really nessacery? As for the lower unit and impeller, I had just rather go ahead and have it done and ready to go.

Doctordeere wrote:No need to winterize for me... I go out as much (if not more) in the winter as I do in the summer.

Pretty much same here it was ready to go when I was. Never really thought much about it till I ask a neighbor to pull me around to the boat ramp when I was having carb issues with the old toon. He said he had just winterized his boat so it was basically out of commission till spring, I guess. Still may spring for a 4 stroke on the next one but still an old 2 stroke guy diehard. Hell couldn't believe how quiet they made the 08 150 so noise is not an issue with me.
doc

First if not already, put a good marine fuel stabilizer (found at most marine stores these days or even the big tops) into the fuel tank and run the motor to ensure it reaches the carb fuel bowl to nip phase separation in the bud due to Ethanol (google it). I run it in both my boats thru the whole season which is especially good for fuel injected engines. Also I'd recommend Startron as well.

With 2 stroke oil already being pushed thru it and as an extra gig that don't hurt, on the final flush spray engine fog into the carb until it stumbles or dies to lubricate and protect the jets and cylinder walls for the long sit period. Or you can just pull the plugs and spray it direct into the cylinders then crank it a few times without starting. Then spray WD-40 all over the powerhead/motor exterior to coat it and somewhat protect it and metal parts like electrical connectors/contacts from corroding. Everything else is about cleaning and covering against the elements. Anything and everything to protect and preserve.

lakerunner wrote:My 2stroke E Tec winterizes in 30 seconds.

Yup

Anyone can "winterize" their motor in 30 seconds if all they are going to do is shoot some oil in the throttle body.