Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

The lake has finally gone down far enough that I'm going to break down and buy a trailer instead of leaving it in the dirt.

I've never had a trailer for anything, so I know nothing other than what I've been reading online and what sales people are telling me. I have a few questions, and besides that any advice, info, etc... Would be greatly appreciated.

With my 25' SunTracker, mercury mercruiser i/o 135hp motor, I know I want a dual axle trailer. One I have been looking at is rated 3500 lbs per axle.

1. How much of a difference, especially value wise, between painted, powder coated and/or galvanized. I am in a fresh water lake.

2. Surge brakes or electric brakes? I know when going in reverse the surge breaks are disengaged. Do electric brakes work when going in reverse? I ask because if I am backing this down a hill or down into the lake all that weight will be pulling on my vehicle if there are no active trailer brakes. I am driving an all wheel drive, 6 cylinder, Buick Enclave with factory towing package (rated for 4500 lbs). By all my figuring I should be fine pulling the boat and I'm not going far with it, but I have a vision of me rolling back into the lake or being pulled backwards down a steep driveway. Especially when I first try it.... Extra brakes going backwards sound appealing to me.

What should I be paying for one? I've been looking for used, but I'm running out of time and keep just missing any that will work.

One guy local in Georgia, for new one, says $2700 for a 25' to 26' dual axle trailer, powder coated, 13" tires, surge brakes installed etc...
Actually, here: http://www.mcotrailers.com/

Anyone know anyone else in Georgia or close by? Particular brand or anything? What else do I need to know?

Also, sorry for the newbie trailer questions, but looking at the back of my vehicle I just have the square hole (think this is called the receiver), I just need the ball hitch to put in run a locking pin or whatever through and then connect to trailer and chain, right? I believe I have a 7 pin round connector already there, which I think is all I need for surge brakes. I think I need a brake controller for electric brakes correct? Looking on the Enclave forum there is a prewired connection by the emergency brake under dash for this in my vehicle already.

I know it's a lot.... Any info would be great. Been researching, but starting to feel overwhelmed and under educated on this.

Thanks!

Sorry that you're fighting the mud in Lake Lanier. Last time we were out there, it was 12' low. Allatoona may sometimes be boatable, and there are quite a few lakes within 2 hrs. that have water available when Lanier's been sucked dry.

A 25' SunTracker with a Mercruiser i/o is heavier than most pontoons, and you would want a high quality dual axle trailer with surge brakes. In North Georgia, you can buy the best trailer for your money in Cedartown @ 678-836-4913. His trailers are built in Lebanon, MO, and they're the best selling trailer in the industry. And his prices are as good as you'll do.

I would suggest you stick with a painted trailer. With AWD and the factory tow package, you'll do okay w/surge brakes on both axles. You can buy a quality hitch bar and ball over at Camper World on the Oakwood Exit west. Just make sure you have the standard 5 pin straight electrical connector by your hitch.

The trailer will probably come with safety cables. They won't let you out of there without being setup properly.

Good luck! You'll be very glad you made the investment in a trailer.

Hi Classic.
Let me chime in here, since our situations are very similar.
I have a 25 foot Beachcomber, 95hp out board, that is all aluminum and fibreglass (no wood at all). I have a dual axle trailer, that is powder coated, and is original in every aspect of being new, with the exception that I added electric brakes myself. My trailer is powder coated, and has held up very well for a 7 going on 8 year old trailer (build in 2005). When I purchased our toon, the trailer didn't have brakes at all, however I noticed that both axles did have the brake baking flage on them (square plate with a hole in each corner) so I could easilly add brakes. So, I did some research, and actually purchased some marine advertised electric brakes, and did it all myself. I have the 13' tires (which is what I would recommend if you're going to add electric brakes) so it was easy finding a 10" brake kit and drum for my trailer. I installed brakes on the front axle on my trailer only, as I didn't see the need to have brakes on all 4 wheels. I can tell you that the electric brakes I have are rated for 3,000 lbs each, and they do an EXCELLENT job of helping me stop my boat. I normally tow with my 1/2 ton Silverado, but on occasion, I have towed with my 2010 Traverse (front wheel drive). Now, on to my second point.
If you have the receiver on you Enclave, that means you have the towing package, and your Enclave is rated to tow 5,200 lbs. I would guess your boat doesn't way but probably 4,000 lbs at the most, but by the time you put people in your Enclave, and coolers / gear on the boat, you'll be close to that 5,200 lbs. I can tell you that you will find the Enclave will pull your toon pretty darn well, for a 3.6L V6. I am amazed at how well ours pulls the pontoon. If you have any other questions, just let me know, and I'll tell you what I know.
Keep in mind that if you geet a trailer with electric brakes, or add electric brakes to a trailer, then you will need a brake controller to command the brakes. I have a Tekonsha, and it hooked up very easily to my Traverse. I use velcro to attach to the under side of the dash, and it stays right where I need it. Also, I only have one controller, so I transfer it to which ever vehicle I use to pull the boat. I did this by making a a pigtail that I can simply plug into each vehicle (Silverado or Traverse) and it works like a charm.
Good Luck.

Thanks for all the info and help guys! Both of you gave me very useful info.

Bamaman: that phone number you gave happens to go to the same guy who's website I put in my original post. So I guess he's the guy in Georgia. His trailers are all powder coated, not painted though. I need a 25' trailer but it sounds like what he has in stock is 26', so I'm sure that will work fine, and not add too much more weight.

Unless another deal comes up or someone recommends someone else, I think he's who I am going with.

GXPweasel - according to Tracker, the dry weight of my pontoon with the motor I have is 2404 pounds. It has all aluminum floor etc.. as well. Don't know how much the trailer weighs yet. Do the electric brakes you have work when going in reverse? What did it cost you to buy the brake kit and then the controller? I am guessing I can get this trailer with the surge brakes installed and swap out for electric if I want or get him to remove them and add my own electric. Have you put your boat in and out of the water with the Traverse? How'd that go?

Did either of you add a weight distributing hitch or sway hitch or whatever it's called?

Thanks again!

Classic:

You could go electric brakes, or you could go surge brakes. But most people go with surge brakes on boats.

Every time I need to know something about trailers, I go to ChampionTrailers.com. They have a great tutorial about many trailering subjects.

You can also talk to the trailer dealer in Cedartown. If he has to add the brakes to an existing trailer, you should put brakes on both axles. And his powdercoat trailers are better than painted trailers.

I don't have brakes on my new MarineMaster tandem trailer (built in Tullahoma.) But there again, I'm towing with a F250 Powerstroke supercab truck with all the towing packages and top line brakes. But, I'm not towing a boat on I-285 or the Hwy 400 autobahn.

Whoa. Back up the Enclave. Do you realize how many used trailers are out there that are practically new. Check out Craigslist. There are alot of people that bought new boats/trailers last year that have their boats in slips year around and have their trailers for sale. You can buy them for 1/2 the cost of a new one. Especially now, because they don't want to store them over the winter. They pretty much litter the roads in Osage Beach, Missouri. Lake of the Ozarks. Before I bought new, I would check for a practically new, used one. Sure can't hurt to look!

I've been looking for used, would love to buy used. Nothing that fits my needs in my area. Saw two that might have worked, but they were gone by the time I called.... If anyone knows of one in the Atl area, or closely surrounding states, please let me know.

Thanks!

I've been looking for a used 24' trailer for my old boat so I can sell it. Pontoon trailers really go quick on the used market.

Best place to find used trailers is on Craigslist, but they seldom if ever show up for a larger boat. Another place to look is at Lake Lanier Liquidators, which is a very large salvage yard outside Cumming. You could also drive around Lake Lanier stopping at the many boat shops, boat dealerships and boat docks to see if they know of any used trailers.

Your best bet for your boat might be to suck it up and buy the new one. If your boat is in very good condition, the trailer is money well spent.

If buying new, don't f forget to specify LED lights. You won't be sorry. Also, make sure any surge brakes have a disable or 'lockout' feature. You need this when backing up a hill or over soft ground. Most people like surge brakes because they are cheaper, simpler and very tough.

Classic wrote:GXPweasel - according to Tracker, the dry weight of my pontoon with the motor I have is 2404 pounds. It has all aluminum floor etc.. as well. Don't know how much the trailer weighs yet. Do the electric brakes you have work when going in reverse? What did it cost you to buy the brake kit and then the controller? I am guessing I can get this trailer with the surge brakes installed and swap out for electric if I want or get him to remove them and add my own electric. Have you put your boat in and out of the water with the Traverse? How'd that go?
Did either of you add a weight distributing hitch or sway hitch or whatever it's called?
Thanks again!

Yep, my brakes work when I hit the brake pedal, or the slide on my controller. This is so I can use the trailer brakes to hold me there, and not use the Truck / Traverse brakes. I don't ever remove the trailer plug when backing into the water, just never saw a need to. I do make sure the brake on the trailer are nice and try before I hit the road. I again do this by sliding the lever on my brake controller, to ensure the trailer brakes are working as they should before I hit the road. I was able to purchase everything I needed for my electric brake instal, controller included, for a little over $400 two years ago. Not bad, and was pretty easy to do. I actually have a write up here on this forum if you are interested after you get a trailer. I don't have a weight dist hitch, as right now, I don't see the need. I rarely go further than 30 miles away, and normally pull with my silverado. I have pulled 5 times with the Traverse, and I've never had a problem pulling a fully loaded boat out of the water with my Traverse, even with just front wheel drive. You would be fine with AWD.

Thanks for all the advice! Going to look at the new ones today.

Thanks again for the help. Went ahead and picked of the one from the guy in Cedartown

When people advised to remove trailer plug when dunking the trailer, it is because the old school bulbs in the marker lights run very hot and will pop almost every time they hit the water. That is why I recommended LED lights. They work perfectly under water! You can also swap out your old 1156 & 1157 bulbs if that is what is on your new trailer. They now make LED bulbs that fit the standard bayonet socket.
I can see wanting to stay plugged in if using electric brakes.
Congrats on your new purchase!