Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

Saving up to pay cash for a pontoon. Going to buy trailer first.

Spoke to my brother about single or multi-axle trailer. Reason I am pushing for mutli is long hauls. I would like the selection of traveling long distances with the boat. I have two questions.

1) Are single axles ok?

2) Do multi require electric brakes? If not are they recommended?

Thanks for any kind of input.

Trailers are matched to the load, unless you know what the boat weighs it is pointless to buy a trailer.

Thanks MH, in this case I am going to match the load to the trailer.

The regulations depend on where you are. Here in Ontario, you need brakes if the gross trailer weight is going to be over 3000lbs.
As for the axle dilemma - again, it depends on several things. Size/weight of the boat is probably the biggest factor but usage should also be factored in.
We only have a single axle trailer and our weight is (approximately) just under 3000lbs all in. Ours is only as 20footer with a small motor and our average tow is now 5 minutes from home to the ramp.. 22ft and over will probably require a twin axle.

Up to 20 feet you can go single axle, after that you get over the weight two tires can handle with E rated tires

more tires on the ground the better, if one blows you got a backup already rolling.

20' pontoon is fine with a single axle trailer. But for little more money, you can get a 22' boat, and it'd be best if hauled on a heavy duty tandem axle trailer.

Brakes? Depends on how far you're towing, the terrain of where you'll be traveling and what kind of tow vehicle you'll be using. If towing is in the Mississippi Delta, you can get by without brakes. If you're hauling the boat around Roanoke, VA, get brakes.

Remember that these boats are not necessarily heavy, but they're poor in aerodynamics and pull like they're 1,000 lbs. heavier than they are. At least a 1/2 ton tow truck or something comparable is preferred.

If you're looking for a used trailer to save some money, it may take quite sometime. Many pontoons are docked in marinas and lake houses and are bought without trailers. Good used trailers are not often seen, even on Craigslist and Boattrader.com.

I sold my old tracker trailer in hours after listing on Craigslist list. I had 5 people waiting if first caller didn't show. It was 11 years old and needed tires and brakes were disconnected because of locking up and only towed a mile to ramp. I sold it I think for $1100.00

As far as brakes... most are not using elect most are surge.

about 2 weeks ago, as i was driving home from lake, someone pulled up beside me and indicated i had a problem with the boat trailer. i found the first place to stop and found the passenger side, rear tire of my tandem trailer was shredded. not only flat, but shredded - about 90% of the rubber was gone.

if i had a single axle trailer, it would have been a catastrophe. now, merely an expensive inconvenience.

i'd go with a dual axle trailer anytime, over a single axle.



your plan is to get a load to match the trailer? interesting concept. not the approach i would take, but interesting, nonetheless.

DUAL DUAL DUAL (with leaf springs, not torsion)
#1 safety if one tire blows, single axle trailers can whip pretty bad if a tire blows, especially if towed with a "marginal" tow vehicle.
#2 4 wide, low pro tires work GREAT at soft landing sites so the trailer doesn't sink into the sand/muck
#3 if you get a flat on a busy highway you can either keep towing at a slow speed to the next ramp, if you don't care about damaging the rim, or pull over and QUICKLY ratchet strap up the offending flat/axle off the ground and proceed to the next ramp
#4 get a bad wheel bearing and do just the ratchet strap trick!

The reason I don't care for torsion is the trailer HAS to be perfectly level for both axles to take 50% of the load. Many times I've seen dual axle torsion trailers with blown tires on the front because the tongue was WAY lower than the rear of the trailer and the front axle/tires were taking the brunt of the load. Spring trailers SHOULD have an equalizer between the springs with a pretty good range of motion.

rancherlee wrote:DUAL DUAL DUAL (with leaf springs, not torsion)
#1 safety if one tire blows, single axle trailers can whip pretty bad if a tire blows, especially if towed with a "marginal" tow vehicle.
#2 4 wide, low pro tires work GREAT at soft landing sites so the trailer doesn't sink into the sand/muck
#3 if you get a flat on a busy highway you can either keep towing at a slow speed to the next ramp, if you don't care about damaging the rim, or pull over and QUICKLY ratchet strap up the offending flat/axle off the ground and proceed to the next ramp
#4 get a bad wheel bearing and do just the ratchet strap trick!

The reason I don't care for torsion is the trailer HAS to be perfectly level for both axles to take 50% of the load. Many times I've seen dual axle torsion trailers with blown tires on the front because the tongue was WAY lower than the rear of the trailer and the front axle/tires were taking the brunt of the load. Spring trailers SHOULD have an equalizer between the springs with a pretty good range of motion.

+1

Well glad I ask. Excellent suggestions from experienced folks.

Going to buy a dual axle for sure. Brand new or maybe 1-2 years old. They seem to avg between $1600 - $2k. Surely leaf spring suspension. Thank you Rancheriee for that suggestion. I would have never thought of that.

Strapping up a flat to make it somewhere safe to change it is great idea. Going to get extra straps just for that.

With surge brakes (don't know what they are) do you need a trailer brake box installed inside the vehicle?

Far as purchasing a trailer before a boat. I am really pushing towards having everything done when I buy a boat. Storage, trailer, plates, equipment (straps etc) and pick-up truck completely ready to pick up boat. I don't want to buy one and have to ask the guy ok can I leave it here for a couple weeks while I get a trailer. lol

You should all feel good about yourself. You really helped someone out here. Thank you all very much.

Surge brakes have a hydraulic cylinder mounted on the trailer coupler. When you hit the brake, the trailer pushes on the cylinder which feeds juice to the brakes on the trailer. It's the easiest way for boat trailer brakes as it's all mechanical and hydraulic.

The inside box is for electric brakes like on skidsteer/backhoe trailers and travel trailers.

I'm equipped for both.

If you're going to buy a new boat, why don't you just buy a boat with your trailer? Some dealers get volume prices on trailers and can do as well as you can in pricing.

It seems the best place for trailers sales price wise is in Lebanon, MO and Elkhart, Indiana. The highest quality trailers are coming out of South Florida, but their galvanized and aluminum C channel trailers are expensive.

Bamaman wrote:Surge brakes have a hydraulic cylinder mounted on the trailer coupler. When you hit the brake, the trailer pushes on the cylinder which feeds juice to the brakes on the trailer. It's the easiest way for boat trailer brakes as it's all mechanical and hydraulic.

The inside box is for electric brakes like on skidsteer/backhoe trailers and travel trailers.

I'm equipped for both.

If you're going to buy a new boat, why don't you just buy a boat with your trailer? Some dealers get volume prices on trailers and can do as well as you can in pricing.

It seems the best place for trailers sales price wise is in Lebanon, MO and Elkhart, Indiana. The highest quality trailers are coming out of South Florida, but their galvanized and aluminum C channel trailers are expensive.

Thanks Bam, but I am not buying a brand new boat. Boat wise I am looking to spend 5k -7k.