Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

Its that time for me to change it.
I could have the marina mechanic do it or I can put my big girl pants and do it myself.
Anyone have a good resource for how-to change it? Ive seen multiple videos and all have different methods.

I have a n 84 evinrude.


Thanks

It prob is a big slot screw. Get the proper screw driver and 2 new o-rings or washers that go under the screw head. Get a big container to catch oil and remove bottom screw first then the top one. This keeps the mess to a minimum.
Go to dealer or wally world and get the hand pump used on bottles and right amount and type of oil. Let drain until no more runs out. Try raising motor with tilt to be sure all is drained.

Screw pump to lower drain then screw onto oil bottle and keeping the motor level start pumping until oil comes out top vent screw hole. put new o-rings or washer and be ready to install. Put top screw in and this forms a vacuum so oil won't run out. Take the pump off bottle and unscrew from bottom drain. Quickly screw in bottom screw and tighten very tight.
Clean up and your done.

Loyd's got you covered. It just takes a few minutes and usually one qt. l/u grease ($5.50 at WalMart) to do the job. I like to use the pump to refill the l/u.

I use the grandkids' plastic swimming pool to drain l/u grease and do oil changes. I want to be able to see what's coming out of the l/u looking for metal shavings and bubbles or signs of water intrusion.

When a l/u gets older, it's not a bad idea to have it pressure and vacuum tested periodically to make sure the seals are good. I didn't do this, and ended up toasting a l/u and having to buy a new engine--and a new boat to put it on.

As you drain oil take note of color. If cloudy water has gotten into lower unit. If so it could be just bad seal around drain or vent screw or a bad seal.

A little bit of discoloration from water intrusion is fairly normal.

It's only bad when it's like this:
If it's been a while since your water pump has been changed, you should probably change that, too. It's pretty easy and a rebuild kit only runs about $30 bucks or so.

Welcome back Katie!
I agree with Alan in that a little bit milky is fairly normal, especially in older motors. Those lower unit gears are pretty tough and will run on just about straight water as long as there is SOME oil mixed in them.
Only kidding a little bit here. If your oil is extremely cloudy, you might need to look at seals. Pay close attention to the first little bit that comes out the lower hole when you remove the upper plug. If it looks like water, then you may need to make a move.
I can't remember if you had your water pump impeller changed last year during your trials and tribulations. It is good preventive to do this every few years, although opinions vary greatly about how many years to wait.

HI Katie:

This is a link to a "how to" youtube video. He also shows you how to lube your prop shaft which is also a good idea since you're down there. You can get a lower unit oil pump for about $10 from you favorite marine store. I do mine every 100 hours or so.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqQvbXV1Cw4

Katie, the chain is hard on impellers, I do mine every 2 years, but I dont know how different outboard water pumps are, sorry. JT

About the only thing I do different is I use a impact driver to remove the drain screws, it has the right screw driver point and it wont mar the slots. depending on how long it has been since it was ran the drained oil will be a clear yellow to a dark. If its a few days after it may be a dull yellow that's air mixed in. IF its a coffee and cream look it has water. When you get it refilled use new seals on the screws you can pick up a pack of a dozen for a few bucks before you drop the oil.

The marina mechanic is changing the LU oil for 30 bucks and hes going already going to spring clean/tune up the engine. I got stuck in the muck and had zebra mussels last year. She needs cleaning.

They put a new impeller in her last year at this time, so hopefully don't need a new one. *crosses fingers*

I've found that the best tool for removing oil drain screws is an old style tire-iron. The slotted end fits the screw nice and snug. You can put a pipe wrench on it to get some extra torque..

My E Tec has allen head. Much better than slot

lakerunner wrote:My E Tec has allen head. Much better than slot

Why they don't all go this route, I have no idea. I think they want you to strip it out so you have to take it to the dealer.

I had to pull my lower unit off to get a screw out. After I had it on the workbench, I could get better pressure on it and it finally came out. Gonna throw a water pump in while the lower unit is off.