LEDs finished. Tweaking the finial touches.
Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:22 am
One thing left to do the grill but finishing up redoing the front lights today. Have one more wire to shorten and their already done.
Twin LED 18W spot lights, turned the original lights at a angle so would get more lighted view .. If you need more light just replace the original flood lights with two 18w LED work lights. Make sure they are Cree lights.. X4 as bright as what came on the boat.
Dash.
Had fun, been a month or so project but got her finished.
Added 5 switches on the dash. If any of you are car guys, you'll notice the three nitrous safety switches .. Two regular throw lights by the tech, two nitrous switches under then then one nitrous switch to the far left. That one is the 700w kicker amp.
Second original switch is the head lights or night running lights. Had to take them off the fuel pannel and wire them directly. 15 amp would of fixed the problem but didn't want to use the wire that was in the boat, 18 gauge running to the front. Switch is 25 amp so wired in 12 gauge wire for the run to the front of the boat.
First throw switch is for the blue LEDs that surround the boat. Special thanks to BlueWaterLED.com ...
Second throw switch are the interior lights. Installed blue LEDs low, didn't like the high look and all the cup holders are lighted.. Both the outside LED's and inside lights run off one of the two electrical rheostats I built a small box for that also houses the sub volume adjuster. Like being able to adjust then to the brightness I like.
First nitrous switch below left to right turns on the pink rope lights that shine on the pontoons. Got a 50 foot strand, and had enough to run them across the front . No rheostat on those. Wanted them bright.
Last ones are the on step light and the little red light on the side that are controlled by the last nitrous switch.
Those are for night swimming.. AKA Skinny Dipping lights.
.............
Won't much way to clean up the wires up under the CC so installed the Kicker M700.5 amp in the back of the CC and making a cover for the opening. We've got another cooler we like better with wheels on it easier to get from the house down the dock so the whole down stairs under the CC has turned into a perfect place for a bigger trash can, for throwing your beer cans in there. Found a perfect fit Tupperware basked so just open the lid and you got the perfect trash can.
O ya,,, Found a PVC made binoculars holder. Thats whats beside the electrical rheostat box I built. Works great.
Still cleaning up the wires, putting them in covers but for the most parts, she's finished. Using the stereo wires ran two speakers off the front of the boat and two off the rear. Amp is connect to the low pass so unless the amp is on only the outside speakers work for enjoying music while swimming. Best of both worlds.
Tiki torches are from Lowes. Stainess and yes they really work.
AND THE SKINNY DIP LIGHTS> 4 ,, 6.5 inside JL Audios 4 , 6.5 Kenwoods on the outside of the boat Like mentioned, two in the front two in the rear. Use a piece of starboard 1/2 inch think fitted to the door and screwed in so the two and the sub behind me driving would not rattle. With the two in the seats facing you and those behind you that is one awesome sounding stereo. For those of us that like to Rock,, anyway.
Twin LED 18W spot lights, turned the original lights at a angle so would get more lighted view .. If you need more light just replace the original flood lights with two 18w LED work lights. Make sure they are Cree lights.. X4 as bright as what came on the boat.
Dash.
Had fun, been a month or so project but got her finished.
Added 5 switches on the dash. If any of you are car guys, you'll notice the three nitrous safety switches .. Two regular throw lights by the tech, two nitrous switches under then then one nitrous switch to the far left. That one is the 700w kicker amp.
Second original switch is the head lights or night running lights. Had to take them off the fuel pannel and wire them directly. 15 amp would of fixed the problem but didn't want to use the wire that was in the boat, 18 gauge running to the front. Switch is 25 amp so wired in 12 gauge wire for the run to the front of the boat.
First throw switch is for the blue LEDs that surround the boat. Special thanks to BlueWaterLED.com ...
Second throw switch are the interior lights. Installed blue LEDs low, didn't like the high look and all the cup holders are lighted.. Both the outside LED's and inside lights run off one of the two electrical rheostats I built a small box for that also houses the sub volume adjuster. Like being able to adjust then to the brightness I like.
First nitrous switch below left to right turns on the pink rope lights that shine on the pontoons. Got a 50 foot strand, and had enough to run them across the front . No rheostat on those. Wanted them bright.
Last ones are the on step light and the little red light on the side that are controlled by the last nitrous switch.
Those are for night swimming.. AKA Skinny Dipping lights.
............. Won't much way to clean up the wires up under the CC so installed the Kicker M700.5 amp in the back of the CC and making a cover for the opening. We've got another cooler we like better with wheels on it easier to get from the house down the dock so the whole down stairs under the CC has turned into a perfect place for a bigger trash can, for throwing your beer cans in there. Found a perfect fit Tupperware basked so just open the lid and you got the perfect trash can.
O ya,,, Found a PVC made binoculars holder. Thats whats beside the electrical rheostat box I built. Works great.
Still cleaning up the wires, putting them in covers but for the most parts, she's finished. Using the stereo wires ran two speakers off the front of the boat and two off the rear. Amp is connect to the low pass so unless the amp is on only the outside speakers work for enjoying music while swimming.
Best of both worlds. Tiki torches are from Lowes. Stainess and yes they really work.
AND THE SKINNY DIP LIGHTS>
4 ,, 6.5 inside JL Audios 4 , 6.5 Kenwoods on the outside of the boat Like mentioned, two in the front two in the rear. Use a piece of starboard 1/2 inch think fitted to the door and screwed in so the two and the sub behind me driving would not rattle. With the two in the seats facing you and those behind you that is one awesome sounding stereo. For those of us that like to Rock,, anyway. 
