Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

1st time changing the oil and filter and lower unit oil. Anything different I should know? This is my 1st 4 stroke outboard and want to make sure it's done right. Thanks


Just got done winterizing this......can't wait for spring!

probably not necessary, but i use the honda motor oil and a honda filter. i'm sure they are just rebranded items so again probably not necessary, but it does give me a bit of piece of mind that i'm using the correct stuff. for the lower unit, one of the best pieces of advice i've seen is to always make sure you can open the "fill" before you open the "drain". this goes for car differentials, transfer cases, etc. i also buy a new washer and o-rings for the oil drain plug and the lower unit plugs. probably not necessary, but again a little piece of mind. i had to buy an adapter for the generic bass pro pump to mate up to my "drain" plug. also, always fill from the bottom. the gear oil is so thick that air can get trapped if you top fill. so basically you pump it in the bottom hole till it comes out the top, then button them up quickly. neither of these are difficult. good luck.

I found a Honda oil filter on ebay cheaper than I could buy one for locally. and it wasn't costly to ship, and it came to me.

I have a 2001 Honda BF115. That thing holds 6 gallons of oil. No matter how you try, 6 gallons of oil won't fit into a standard automotive 5 gallon catch pan. BTDT and it makes a hell of a mess. So make sure your catch pan is big enough.

I buy Honda oil and filters for the same reason as above.

I use a Mity Vac pump to suck the oil out of the dip stick hole. Then I go back and pull the drain plug to get the remnants. Make sure to run the motor on ear muffs long enough to get it warm before trying to pump it out. (Oil should be changed warm regardless of if you're pumping it out or gravity draining.)

Changing the filter can be a big mess. The best strategy I have is to leave the motor nearly vertical and turn the wheel way to the left so you have access to the front of the motor from the right. Take a piece of cardboard about the size of the side of a case of beer. In fact, use the side of a case of beer carton. When you're done, you will have nowhere to put the beer so you must drink it. Put a crease in the cardboard lengthwise and slice it under the flange at the bottom of the oil filter. Then take the plastic bag your oil came from from your friendly dealer and put it over the cardboard and tuck in in as best you can under the flange. Unscrew the oil filter. A rubber strap wrench works well for me to get it started. When it finally releases from the threads, lower it into the plastic bag. Then the rest of the oil draining out of the oil filter housing will run down the crease in the cardboard and into the bag. Tilt the motor up some more and catch the remaining oil with your fancy cardboard oil catcher and plastic bag.

When everything has drained out, dip your finger in a bottle of clean oil and lube the gasket on the new oil filter. Screw the filter on hand tight as tight as you can. I usually use the strap wrench to snug it up, but just a little.

I have nothing to add about draining and filling the lower unit other than I use a big slotted screw driver to loosen the drain and vent screws and clamp vice grips onto the shaft to give me more torque. My hands are usually oily by this point and they always slip on the screwdriver handle.

Good luck and share the beer with your wife. Or your girlfriend. But not both. BTDT and it makes a hell of a mess.

sunedog wrote:Changing the filter can be a big mess. The best strategy I have is to leave the motor nearly vertical and turn the wheel way to the left so you have access to the front of the motor from the right. Take a piece of cardboard about the size of the side of a case of beer. In fact, use the side of a case of beer carton. When you're done, you will have nowhere to put the beer so you must drink it. Put a crease in the cardboard lengthwise and slice it under the flange at the bottom of the oil filter. Then take the plastic bag your oil came from from your friendly dealer and put it over the cardboard and tuck in in as best you can under the flange. Unscrew the oil filter. A rubber strap wrench works well for me to get it started. When it finally releases from the threads, lower it into the plastic bag. Then the rest of the oil draining out of the oil filter housing will run down the crease in the cardboard and into the bag. Tilt the motor up some more and catch the remaining oil with your fancy cardboard oil catcher and plastic bag.

sunedog wrote:I have a 2001 Honda BF115. That thing holds 6 gallons of oil. No matter how you try, 6 gallons of oil won't fit into a standard automotive 5 gallon catch pan. BTDT and it makes a hell of a mess. So make sure your catch pan is big enough.

I buy Honda oil and filters for the same reason as above.

I use a Mity Vac pump to suck the oil out of the dip stick hole. Then I go back and pull the drain plug to get the remnants. Make sure to run the motor on ear muffs long enough to get it warm before trying to pump it out. (Oil should be changed warm regardless of if you're pumping it out or gravity draining.)

Changing the filter can be a big mess. The best strategy I have is to leave the motor nearly vertical and turn the wheel way to the left so you have access to the front of the motor from the right. Take a piece of cardboard about the size of the side of a case of beer. In fact, use the side of a case of beer carton. When you're done, you will have nowhere to put the beer so you must drink it. Put a crease in the cardboard lengthwise and slice it under the flange at the bottom of the oil filter. Then take the plastic bag your oil came from from your friendly dealer and put it over the cardboard and tuck in in as best you can under the flange. Unscrew the oil filter. A rubber strap wrench works well for me to get it started. When it finally releases from the threads, lower it into the plastic bag. Then the rest of the oil draining out of the oil filter housing will run down the crease in the cardboard and into the bag. Tilt the motor up some more and catch the remaining oil with your fancy cardboard oil catcher and plastic bag.

When everything has drained out, dip your finger in a bottle of clean oil and lube the gasket on the new oil filter. Screw the filter on hand tight as tight as you can. I usually use the strap wrench to snug it up, but just a little.

I have nothing to add about draining and filling the lower unit other than I use a big slotted screw driver to loosen the drain and vent screws and clamp vice grips onto the shaft to give me more torque. My hands are usually oily by this point and they always slip on the screwdriver handle.

Good luck and share the beer with your wife. Or your girlfriend. But not both. BTDT and it makes a hell of a mess.

Where are you pouring the oil? My 90 years ago only held 4 quarts.

Our 150 holds 7 qts.

Honda says: Recommended Oil: Honda 10W30 FC-W™ outboard motor oil: Oil Capacity: 6.70 L (5.90 Imp. qt) with oil.

Changing the oil on a modern 4 stroke outboard is a quick and easy job. Add the lower unit grease exchange, and both can be done for around $30 in 30 minutes. I'm now running Mobil One EP oil which is about tops in quality.

I've researched oil filters and have found auto duplicates for my outboard filter at far less at the local auto parts store. I did pickup a couple of $1 paper gaskets at the Yamaha dealer, but his partsman thought that a Yamaha F150 was a motorcycle.

I still cringe when reading online what boaters pay to marine dealerships for normal "winterizing".

lakerunner wrote:

sunedog wrote:I have a 2001 Honda BF115. That thing holds 6 gallons of oil.

Where are you pouring the oil? My 90 years ago only held 4 quarts.

Oops! Of course I meant 6 QUARTS.

Whew , OK that scared the shit outta me! I haven't changed my 135 yet. I was scared I was going to have to buy Exxon!

But I liked the oil change description !

I commandeer the grandkids' Walmart plastic swimming pool as a backup drain pan. My primary drain pan is a 5 gallon plastic Home Depot paint bucket.

It is important to raise the engine via the power trim very high and hold it for 30 seconds. Then drop the engine to where the anticavitation plate is level before draining the engine and lower unit.