Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

My trailer jack broke at the end of the season. Which one would you guys get? The wheel is not really of use as it sits on gravel and never moves. I am thinking about the 5000 lb with the foot.

I bought a double wheel jack for my utility trailer. A wheel is important to me so I can nudge it a couple inches to get it lined up on the ball.

Do you think the 1k will work or should I do the 1500# if I go with the wheel?

The one with the foot has a weld on piece, that's a little inconvenient, but the way to go as far as I'm concerned. I hate the saddle bolt kind, but that's just me.


get the 1500 # no matter

If you have a northern tool, harbor freight or tractor supply in town they should have what you need cheaper than bass pro.

COTTS4x4 wrote:If you have a northern tool, harbor freight or tractor supply in town they should have what you need cheaper than bass pro.

That's what I did--

Go with a double wheel fold up tongue jack. You can easily move your boat a few feet with an ATV or lawn tractor. I also have a 2" ball hitch on my ATV if I want to move it around the yard.

You have to be careful when pushing around any boat manually--or even an ATV. You can easily hurt yourself pushing and stopping. I keep wheel chocks handy to stop trailers from rolling into my house or other cars.

Craig, I know you said your boat and trailer sit on a gravel pad, but I think I'd still go for a trailer jack with a wheel....you never know if you're going to have to park your boat someplace where you might need to roll it around a bit.... better to have and not need than to need and not have.

RcgTexas wrote:The one with the foot has a weld on piece, that's a little inconvenient, but the way to go as far as I'm concerned. I hate the saddle bolt kind, but that's just me.


get the 1500 # no matter

I didn't even notice it wasn't a bolt on thanks everyone! Wheeled 1500 it is.

I prefer the "drop leg" jack. One doesn't have to crank but a few times then pull the pin and the leg drops or can be manually retracted.
The down side is that it has to be welded to a plate that has to have holes drilled for the mounting bolts. I've got this type on my two boat trailers, utility trailer and camping trailer.

Seon wrote:I prefer the "drop leg" jack. One doesn't have to crank but a few times then pull the pin and the leg drops or can be manually retracted.
The down side is that it has to be welded to a plate that has to have holes drilled for the mounting bolts. I've got this type on my two boat trailers, utility trailer and camping trailer.

I'm with you with the value and convenience of a drop leg jack design and I'd also like to let you know that bolt on applications are available. Dutton-Lainson Trailer Jack - DL22320

My problem with the saddle bolt units is the bolts rust so bad here on the coast. You can change them to SS but the just don't look as good to me. That little weld on piece can be put on in 5 minutes, and painted with cold galvanize will do just fine.