Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

I know it's been gone over many times but sometime things change or new products come along. I have a 24' tri toon,the center tube is new but the two outer tubes need cleaning. They have no corrosion and have never seen salt water as far as I know. Run me thru the whole process and what products should I use ? I have an orbital buffer and polisher.

What do you mean they need cleaning? Are they just dirty? Or are they green and grungy from sitting in the water.

Some people would start by using a water/bleach mixture. Others would go after them with detergent and a stiff brush--or a Scotchbrite pad. Some would use an acid based aluminum cleaner, but it will dull the toons. Then, you'd have to use a quality metal polish and a wool bonnet on a dual action polisher (not orbital polisher) to bring out the shine.

It's just not a simple proposition to get toons cleaned and shiny.

I too have a 24' tri toon with new inner and old outer logs. first time it had to be done because it had to be done, they was in bad shape. the next season I did it agin to get them looking better, and the next but buy now I had them looking pretty good so i finished them with shark hide. still not happy I have now painted them, boat sits in fresh water for 9 months in a Midwestern lake with all the green stuff we have come to know and love and at the end of the season I put my thumb over the end of the water hose and spray them off. I have better then 30 hours sanding and polishing that boats bottom that's not why I got it. for me PAINT is moregooder.

Ya, its a pretty sucky job! Mine need to be touched up when it warms up. Nice thing is, once its done, its easy to keep them looking nice. Just need to keep up with it every so often. The Sharkhide is easy to remove, re-buff the spot and re-apply. 45 minutes and they are looking good again. Like Bama said, the orbital will not work, you'll need a good buffer. I use a 8" grinder/buffer with a wool pad, like he mentioned, lots of lacquer thinner to remove the grimy black crap and sharkhide to protect it. some people do not put the Sharkhide on, just run them naked and rebuff every so often. I myself prefer the Sharkhide.

I was looking at my Bennie hanging in the boathouse last week. I do have some minor tarnish streaks, but the toons are still shiny.

I'll wait until about June 1st, put the boat on the trailer and lightly polish the two outside toons, 3 nose cones and the rear end. I'm not about to spend the time needed to clean those toons enough to use the Sharkhide protectant. My polish job will take under 2 hrs., and that's enough time for me.

Thanks for your replies, the tubes are actually pretty clean just dull and with a spot of oxidation here and there,no real corrosion. I have a dual action buffer and bonnets is there a mild polish / abrasive that would work with this combo ?

I used Sharkhide polish. It worked pretty well. I bought it, the cleaner and protectant as a kit, from Clint Bland. Owner of Flatwater Inc. that makes Sharkhide products. I have his email if you want it.

Thanks, I'm going to try a home made solution,if it works I'll post ,if not I may try that sharkhide.

Anyone experience any long term side effects of using scotchbrite pads to clean their logs?

Cleaned the moss off of my logs this weekend while anchored at the local hangout using plastic pot scrappers and scotchbrite pads as suggested here. Both excellent ideas and worked very well with minimal time and effort - maybe 30 minutes total.

Of course the scotchbrite pads roughed up the metal with little swirls - any long term issues I should be concerned with?

As long as you don't rub through the metal, you'll be fine...
A friend uses 000 steel wool after the scotchbrite pads. Just a big wad in his hand and a gentle rubbing, then a damp towel afterwards, makes his look real good. Its in the water all the time, he does it 2 or 3 times a season.

I first tried Mother's Aluminum Polish. It sucks.

Then i read about White Diamond Metal Polish on a detailing website. It's available at Advance Auto Parts--sometimes in their backroom professional sales desk. There are other products like it on the retail market. AutoGeek.com is another great place to read about detailing.

When applying White Diamond, you just use 4 dime size dollups on the wool bonnet (dual action polisher.) Place the bonnet on the toon and hit the switch. Go up and down, right and left on a 2' x 2' section. It's going to make a bunch of black paste. After a minute or so, the paste will dry up, the surface will suddenly appear polished and the aluminum oxide will mostly disappear into the air. Wipe the residual black junk off with a clean towel.

I also have a high speed polisher, however it's too hard to use--very physical. The Porter Cable dual action polisher doesn't make swirl marks and keeps me out of trouble, and the shine is good enough for the effort expended.