Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

I Had a 20' pontoon and trailer. I sold the boat and kept the trailer and bought a 20' tri-toon. Am I going to have to change to a double axel trailer? I have no idea what the tri-toon weighs but the trailer i have is rated for 2200 lbs. also, could I change to a 3500 lb rated axel or add another axel to my existing trailer?

How far are you planning on pulling it ?, you will be right at the limit or over a single axle, you can add another axle and that would be the best bet on long hauls

HandymanHerb wrote:How far are you planning on pulling it ?, you will be right at the limit or over a single axle, you can add another axle and that would be the best bet on long hauls

That's what I was thinking. I'd like to take it to the keys this summer and that's 300 miles each way. The frame is really strong so the axel is the weak point and I can get another axel kit for under $300.00.

There may be more than just adding an axle. The frame itself needs to be rated for the extra load. You may or may not be able to just add another axle.

Some trailers use identical frames for different gross weight trailers but you will have to ask the trailer manufacturer if this is the case with your model.

Is your tritoon a full length center toon? Or, is it like the Bennington Express Hull--just up to the motor pod?

If it's the 3/4 toon, the center toon's additional weight may only be 200 or 250 lbs.

Compare the frame on your trailer to the frame on larger pontoon boats'. If it's the same steel, moving to a 3500 lb. axle might do you a good job. The trick is figuring out exactly where to mount the axle.

When I have questions on trailers, ChampionTrailers.com has a good tutorial on many subjects. They also sell axles, hubs and mounting supplies. The trick is figuring out exactly where to mount the axle.

Bamaman wrote:Is your tritoon a full length center toon? Or, is it like the Bennington Express Hull--just up to the motor pod?

If it's the 3/4 toon, the center toon's additional weight may only be 200 or 250 lbs.

Compare the frame on your trailer to the frame on larger pontoon boats'. If it's the same steel, moving to a 3500 lb. axle might do you a good job. The trick is figuring out exactly where to mount the axle.

When I have questions on trailers, ChampionTrailers.com has a good tutorial on many subjects. They also sell axles, hubs and mounting supplies. The trick is figuring out exactly where to mount the axle.

Mine has the third toon just up to the pod and I looked at several trailers yesterday and my frame is stronger than most of the bigger trailers. It's an older Tracker trailer with box beams. Like you said, I think the big question is where to put the axel.

wijames wrote: Mine has the third toon just up to the pod and I looked at several trailers yesterday and my frame is stronger than most of the bigger trailers. It's an older Tracker trailer with box beams. Like you said, I think the big question is where to put the axle.

See Photo below and note yellow arrows:
A lot of trailer manufactures mount their axles and suspension systems on a dolly like on the tracker trailer posted above. This allows for the dolly to be loosened and slid forward or backward some to customize the tongue weight of the entire unit. Yours also may be made in the same manner and adjustment will then be easy. Just loosen all the U-Bolts holding the dolly in place then jack up the trailer frame on both side in the back just enough to take most of the weight off the dolly. In general if you need to increase the tongue weight slide the dolly to the rear about 6" and then check, to decrease slide it forward 6" and check. Often you don't need to move them much to make a big change at the hitch but it's relatively easy so play around with it until you feel that it's right.

You then wont to check the brake lines to ensure they're OK and have enough movement or replace hose as needed, tighten everything back down and you'd be ready for the road again.

Hey, that's my trailer in the picture, I was not aware the axles could be moved. I need more tongue weight, gonna have to check that out.

Glenn

By the time you add another axle and tires, wheels ect you should be adding brakes also. IMHO I think that you would be better off selling this trailer and buying one that has all you need added already. I bet if your old trailer is in good shape you could almost get what a new one will cost. It might cost 4 or 5 hundred but the piece of mind will be worth it.

jimrs wrote:By the time you add another axle and tires, wheels ect you should be adding brakes also. IMHO I think that you would be better off selling this trailer and buying one that has all you need added already. I bet if your old trailer is in good shape you could almost get what a new one will cost. It might cost 4 or 5 hundred but the piece of mind will be worth it.

That's what I'm beginning to think. I got this trailer for a great price and its in great shape so I could probably get a good price for it. Not sure what a new trailer would run though.

Bamby wrote:

wijames wrote: Mine has the third toon just up to the pod and I looked at several trailers yesterday and my frame is stronger than most of the bigger trailers. It's an older Tracker trailer with box beams. Like you said, I think the big question is where to put the axle.

See Photo below and note yellow arrows:

Pontoon Boat Trailer.jpg

A lot of trailer manufactures mount their axles and suspension systems on a dolly like on the tracker trailer posted above. This allows for the dolly to be loosened and slid forward or backward some to customize the tongue weight of the entire unit. Yours also may be made in the same manner and adjustment will then be easy. Just loosen all the U-Bolts holding the dolly in place then jack up the trailer frame on both side in the back just enough to take most of the weight off the dolly. In general if you need to increase the tongue weight slide the dolly to the rear about 6" and then check, to decrease slide it forward 6" and check. Often you don't need to move them much to make a big change at the hitch but it's relatively easy so play around with it until you feel that it's right.

You then wont to check the brake lines to ensure they're OK and have enough movement or replace hose as needed, tighten everything back down and you'd be ready for the road again.

That's exactly what my trailer looks like except it's a single axel.

I think your best bet would be to find a competent trailer manufacturer near you and take your trailer down there for them to tell you what is the best way to fix your problem. They are gonna do the work so they will know if it's better to adapt yours or maybe sell you a new one and take yours for trade. Just listen close and you can tell if they are blowing smoke and just trying to get your money or if they have a legitimate solution,,, good luck !!