Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

Well I raised my motor out of the water and found the rear half of the skeg broke off. I dont have the broken part.

I do want to address this in the winter and need to know my options.
What kind of replacement housing would I look for? Does it have a common name or part number?
Can a replacement skeg be TIG welded on (internals removed)?

Is removing the lower unit as simple as removing the x number of bolts? And then it just drops?

Thanks
Bill

I believe ive seen a bolt on replacement type cover for a broken skeg. is it leaking oil.if not have a replacement heli arced back on without removing lower unit.....by a trained welder.

wrd1972 wrote:Well I raised my motor out of the water and found the rear half of the skeg broke off. I dont have the broken part.

I do want to address this in the winter and need to know my options.
What kind of replacement housing would I look for? Does it have a common name or part number?
Can a replacement skeg be TIG welded on (internals removed)?

Is removing the lower unit as simple as removing the x number of bolts? And then it just drops?

Thanks
Bill

Don't know what HP you have ,but here is just one of many places to purchase a new skeg. This is the type that needs a competent aluminum welder to do. Hope it helps.

http://www.boatersplus.com/t-h-marine-r ... =shopzilla

Thanks guys. No its not leaking oil.

I am leaning towards just pulling the lower unit and having a new skeg welded on. I imagine this would be much easier to do in the winter rather than bring the boat from the lake. How does the lower unit come off?

I had this exact repair done last winter. You need a good trained welder (I found mine at a prop shop).

You need to remove your lower to do it properly. If you need advice on this, I or others can help you out.

Then the welder buys an EXACT replacement skeg for your motor. The internals do not need to be removed if there is no gear damage or leaking seals. The welder then MUST hang your lower upside down in a water bath with just the skeg damage sticking out for welding. That way your lower seals don't get overheated. This last step is CRITICAL and the only way to do it right. Keeps the cost down too.

When I got mine back (he painted it too), I couldn't even tell where he made the repair. Good luck, captain

I've used Skeggard on my own and work outboards over the years. They just bolt over the existing skeg. I'm considering getting one for my toon, just as insurance.


http://skeggard.com/

I've mig (spool gun) welded complete skegs back on while the motor/skeg was still on the boat but its a SLOW process. You can only weld in short bursts and let the whole lower unit area cool 20 minutes before welding another short burst. It really depends on how big of a chunk is missing, its only a half dollar size chunk I personally would just take and file down the edges and leave it alone.

I reall don't know the purpose of the skeg. It has nothing to do with the tracking or steering of the boat. If used to protect the prop I would rather use a prop guard. I have seen many boats with broken skegs that are never fixed. A skeg guard would be the least expensive alternative.

BoatCop wrote:I've used Skeggard on my own and work outboards over the years.

I have a skeg guard on mine. Works out great.

BobG wrote:

BoatCop wrote:I've used Skeggard on my own and work outboards over the years.

I have a skeg guard on mine. Works out great.

I have also used something quite similar to SkegGuard and they are indeed good. Easy fix for the broken skeg or nice protection for a good one.
The only reason I mentioned welding on a skeg with the lower upside down in a water bath was to highlight how a proper repair is made. For those that like their boats 'factory'. Prolly helps make a sale as well. Every time I see a skeg guard, I wonder what's under it...then I wonder what got hit to prompt putting it on.....then I wonder if the shaft is bent....then.....ad nauseum

tuned wrote:Every time I see a skeg guard, I wonder what's under it...then I wonder what got hit to prompt putting it on.....then I wonder if the shaft is bent....then.....ad nauseum

Shoot, I just thought it was nice bling to go with my stainless prop - and to protect that fragile aluminum appendage. Mine hasn't been damaged, and I want it to stay that way!

Overtons also sells the Megaware SkegGuard which are stainless steel and put on with rivits.

They're on sale @ $89.99 plus you can also get a 15% discount with the Pin BIRTHDAY if you move quick.