Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

Getting a 21 Manitou Tritoon with a 150 G2 Etec. Will be fishing in shallow water sometimes.

Wondering if a Jackplate will help any? I know on bayboats it does help quite a bit.

Sure, had one on my 24' Manitou Xplode. I had a CMC 10" hydraulic mounted in front of a 250 Etec. Buy a water pressure gauge! Run too high and you'll cook your motor.

I've read where the pontoon manufacturers would prefer you not use a jack plate on their boats. The engine pods and motor mounts are really not as strong as those on full hulled boats, and a jack plate may put more leverage than the mount can stand. If you do go with one, try to limit it to the shortest unit available--not a 10" mode.

You have to accept the limitations of pontoons (and other boats). They're just a little too large to place in very shallow water, and the wind really blows them around--making them a candidate for a very strong trolling motor. They're just not a replacement for a good aluminum flat bottom jon boat.

Crest running Hondas have dealer installed jackplates and Crest approves so do a little homework before you cash the idea in.Since its a Manitou, Bryan has done it for you.

I installed a 6" manual jack plate on mine about two weeks ago. Can't really tell a difference, maybe 1/2 mph. Installed high and worked way down to get best performance. I was getting porpoising at about 53 or 54 mph, trimmed out. It still does that also. Trim down just a tad and it goes away. So if I had to do it over again I don't think I would invest in the JP. Good luck.

[quote="rhorne"]I installed a 6" manual jack plate on mine about two weeks ago. Can't really tell a difference, maybe 1/2 mph. Installed high and worked way down to get best performance. I was getting porpoising at about 53 or 54 mph, trimmed out. It still does that also. Trim down just a tad and it goes away. So if I had to do it over again I don't think I would invest in the JP. Good luck.[/quote]

Ya, a jack plate won't take care of porpoising, that's all in the trim. What are you running for prop? To make a jack plate really work. you need a stern lifting prop. I'm guessing you have a Rebel or a Viper? You should run a Raker, once, its designed to run high with the tip of the highest blade running just out of the water at WOT. That really wakes up the Etecs, increases WOT RPM's and lets you run a higher rake. I was ruuning a 24 and 26 pitch on my old Manitou, with a 250 Etec, 60-64 mph, compared to a 21 Viper, at 54 to 58. And a manual jack plate is hard to dial in. You loose hole shot when up. When down, you loose top end. Props are kind of like spinning bullets, they like to make their own path (depth) in the water. They won't climb on their own, you have to force it, by controlling the motion. Trim helps do that, but then bow weight takes over and the porpoising starts. What diameter is your center tube? I found that when on a smaller diameter transom, the jack plate creates more drag because its exposes itself or the motors mid section to water splash. I made a spoiler to get that water around the mid section, instead of on it, for 20" SHP transoms. On the 25's, there is no need. There's a lot more to jack plates on pontoons than glass boats, because the transom is so small. So, you have to redirect the flow of the water around the bottom of the jack plate and the mid section, with a little sheet aluminum and well placed rivets and through a lot of trial and error.You have to work outside the box, to make them work, sometimes. Premiers 36" PTX hulls are large enough to hang and forget it.
And like Bama said, if its gonna F-up your warranty, don't do it. But, by doing it correctly, it can add strength to your transom. Use the billet washer plates, instead of individual washer/lock washers. And do yourself a favor and Shark Hide it before installing it, too. They get ugly, real fast.

[quote="Bryden24shp"][quote="rhorne"]I installed a 6" manual jack plate on mine about two weeks ago. Can't really tell a difference, maybe 1/2 mph. Installed high and worked way down to get best performance. I was getting porpoising at about 53 or 54 mph, trimmed out. It still does that also. Trim down just a tad and it goes away. So if I had to do it over again I don't think I would invest in the JP. Good luck.[/quote]

Ya, a jack plate won't take care of porpoising, that's all in the trim. What are you running for prop? To make a jack plate really work. you need a stern lifting prop. I'm guessing you have a Rebel or a Viper? You should run a Raker, once, its designed to run high with the tip of the highest blade running just out of the water at WOT. That really wakes up the Etecs, increases WOT RPM's and lets you run a higher rake. I was ruuning a 24 and 26 pitch on my old Manitou, with a 250 Etec, 60-64 mph, compared to a 21 Viper, at 54 to 58. And a manual jack plate is hard to dial in. You loose hole shot when up. When down, you loose top end. Props are kind of like spinning bullets, they like to make their own path (depth) in the water. They won't climb on their own, you have to force it, by controlling the motion. Trim helps do that, but then bow weight takes over and the porpoising starts. What diameter is your center tube? I found that when on a smaller diameter transom, the jack plate creates more drag because its exposes itself or the motors mid section to water splash. I made a spoiler to get that water around the mid section, instead of on it, for 20" SHP transoms. On the 25's, there is no need. There's a lot more to jack plates on pontoons than glass boats, because the transom is so small. So, you have to redirect the flow of the water around the bottom of the jack plate and the mid section, with a little sheet aluminum and well placed rivets and through a lot of trial and error.You have to work outside the box, to make them work, sometimes. Premiers 36" PTX hulls are large enough to hang and forget it.
And like Bama said, if its gonna F-up your warranty, don't do it. But, by doing it correctly, it can add strength to your transom. Use the billet washer plates, instead of individual washer/lock washers. And do yourself a favor and Shark Hide it before installing it, too. They get ugly, real fast.[/quote]

Center tube is 27" and outside toons are 25", all 3 have lifting strakes. I have a rebel and a viper with the rebel appearing to be the better prop. I did try a raker but it would not turn the rpm's with it. You suggested that to me a couple of years ago. You sent me your set up back then. Only reason for jack plate is that I was going to raise the motor another hole and the dealer (a friend) had a jack plate that he put on for me to try.......I was hoping to get a couple of more miles per hour but if I didn't it was not cost me any thing to try. I know a couple of years ago you said you had done some under skinning to get yours to the speeds that you were getting. Thanks for the help.

[quote="rhorne"]
I know a couple of years ago you said you had done some under skinning to get yours to the speeds that you were getting. Thanks for the help.[/quote]

Yes, I eliminated everything possible that was creating drag. Smoothened out seams, streamlined the hull, added aluminum sheeting to redirect spray, cleaned up welds. Every little bit helped. That was back when performance toons were just getting popular and we were trying different stuff to get every mph we could. Now most manufacturers have it down and you don't need to go the extremes that I did. I gotta say, it was fun, though!