First Winter with the Boat

[katieclooney]

So this will be my first winter storage with the boat. She will be staying at the marina, outside.
What are things that need to be done before she goes away for the winter.
I fear I may be missing something:

-power wash
-remove everything but the furniture (including gas cans)
-winterize engine (btw, what do you have do to winterize? I am told don't waste the $100 a mech will charge to do it because its so simple and cheap)
-the packs of things (cant think of the name) that draw the moisture out.
-shrink wrap

Thanks for the help

[pond tuuunes]

Sorry Katie, I have a mech that does mine, if you need anything let me know JT

[Bamaman]

Depends on what kind'a engine you have. Most people will change oil and filter in a 4 stroke, and it's a good time to change the lower unit grease--total 1/2 hr. job. Fill it up with 100% gasoline with a Stabil type fuel treatment.

If they had a 2 stroke, they'd change the lower unit grease. Then they might get the engine running long enough to get it hot and cut off the gas flow to the carbs (if not fuel injected). When it's starting to stumble from a lack of fuel, they'd spray the carbs with fogging oil until it quits. It doesn't hurt to change the spark plugs at that time--$10 investment.

I never winterized my old Yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke engine on my pontoon. I've cleaned the carbs. 2x in 28 years, and the engine's been great. I cannot even remember ever charging the car battery in the boat--and the battery's been giving me 10+ years service in marine application. But winter weather in the Mid South is pretty mild--and winter's short.

And I don't clean the boat before winter. I clean it in May, or when I start boating. It's just going to get dirty anyway.

I actually enjoy doing the maintenance on my boats, and it gives me a good feeling that I'm not wasting $200 for an hour's time. I cannot remember having a mechanic look at my outboard motors--just my inboard outboards have required their expertise.

[landlockedsailor]

So sad, winter is coming! I did a search on "winterizing" and 19 pages of discussions came up. I decided to google it for a fast list and found this from Avalon's site. I assume it's general enough to apply to most, if not all, pontoon boats?

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How to Winterize your Pontoon Boat
Preparing your pontoon boat for the winter months is absolutely essential to protect your investment and to ensure that your boat is in great shape and ready for use in the spring. Here are some tips to help you winterize your boat and keep it in top condition during the off-season.

Get it clean

It is important to thoroughly clean your boat inside and out before storing it for the winter. Any dust, grime, or barnacles that are on the exterior will be much easier to clean now than after winter. Once you have the outside clean, you may want to apply a polish to create a protective barrier from rust and dirt.

The interior of the boat should also be cleaned. Make sure to get all surfaces nice and clean and let them dry thoroughly before storing. Teak, carpet and vinyl can breed mildew, especially when the boat is covered and there is little ventilation.

Remove equipment

You should remove any miscellaneous equipment from the boat. Flotation devices, skis, tubes, wakeboard, towels and fishing equipment can trap moisture and cause mildew.

Any electronic equipment should also be removed and stored indoors to protect it from cold temperatures, moisture buildup, and theft.

Prepare your engine

Note: Please consult your engine’s owners manual for specific instructions. The following are general guidelines. Your engine will be sitting dormant for a while, so it’s a good idea to spray fogging oil into the carburetor and down the spark plug holes. Remove the spark plugs, spray the fogging oil (following the directions carefully) and replace the spark plugs without connecting the wires. This will provide a protective coating after all of the oil has settled to the bottom of the engine.

Then, fill the gas tank. Empty space inside the tank leaves room for condensation as the temperature changes. Your gas tank should be at least ¾ full before storing for the winter.

This is also a good time to replace the oil and change the oil filters. Dispose of any unused oil at an authorized recycling center.

Use Antifreeze

If your boat is equipped with an inboard/outboard, drain the coolant from the engine and replace with non-toxic, propylene glycol based antifreeze. Many antifreeze products available contain an ethylene glycol base, which can release toxins into the water. Most manufacturers agree that the propylene variety is better for your engine too.

Cover it up

You should always cover your boat for the winter, and especially if you plan to store it outdoors. Keep in mind that rain and snow can build up and create pooling on the cover so it is important that the cover be very secure and that it is well supported to direct show and water down and away from the boat. For best results, take your boat to a dealer to have your boat securely covered & winterized.

If you choose to use a cover or tarp, make sure that it is properly sized and fitted to your boat. If you’re storing your boat indoors, the quality of the cover is not as important because its main function will be to keep moisture and dirt out of the boat. For outdoor storage, a quality, fitted cover is recommended.

Another option is to shrink wrap your boat. Shrink Wrapping provides the best protection against moisture and you don’t have to worry about the cover sagging or blowing off. Shrink wrapped boats can withstand heavy amounts of snow and rain. This job can be done yourself, but it requires special tools and knowledge, so it may best be left to an expert.

Removing the battery

If you plan to store your pontoon boat out of the water, you should disconnect the battery and store it someplace cool, but remember to fully charge it beforehand, and to top off the charge throughout the winter.

If you are storing your boat in the water, you should keep the battery on board and charged so that the bilge pump will continue functioning if needed.

[katieclooney]

I forgot the battery removal. I was close lol
I saw those articles when I googled but they all differ a bit, figure Id ask the experts.

And yes its a 2 stroke. Forgot that part.

[evinrude2stroke]

This is the way I used to do my older boat which had a 2stroke merc on it. I did it for many years and it worked well for me.

-Add Stabil to your fuel and run your engine long enough so the Stabil runs through.
-Remove the spark plugs and spray engine fogger (or add 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil into each cylinder) into the cylinders replace the spark plugs but leave off the wires. crank the engine a few times (this coats the inside of the cylinders)..put the wires back on the plugs.
-spray the outside of the engine & wires with WD-40. prevents and rust/moisture from developing & keeps the wires from drying out.
-change the lower unit oil.(you can opt to do this in the spring, up to you).
-put your engine in the down position to allow all water to drain out.
-grease any fittings
-remove the battery. This way you can charge it up a few days before get it ready in the spring.
-take off all the gear & clean her up.
-shrink wrap or tarp.

[katieclooney]

This is the way I used to do my older boat which had a 2stroke merc on it. I did it for many years and it worked well for me.

-Add Stabil to your fuel and run your engine long enough so the Stabil runs through.
-Remove the spark plugs and spray engine fogger (or add 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil into each cylinder) into the cylinders replace the spark plugs but leave off the wires. crank the engine a few times (this coats the inside of the cylinders)..put the wires back on the plugs.
-spray the outside of the engine & wires with WD-40. prevents and rust/moisture from developing & keeps the wires from drying out.
-change the lower unit oil.(you can opt to do this in the spring, up to you).
-put your engine in the down position to allow all water to drain out.
-grease any fittings
-remove the battery. This way you can charge it up a few days before get it ready in the spring.
-take off all the gear & clean her up.
-shrink wrap or tarp.

I was going to use up all the gas in my removeable tanks. Should I not then?

[MH Hawker]

A lot depends on your climate.
I charge my battery and disconnect the hot wire but leave it in the boat.
I run the portable tanks, so I remove them and dump the left over gas in my truck tank.
I run the motor dry of fuel and then fog it. Old 2 stroke outboard
Change the LU oil and tilt it down.
Clean the boat inside and out.
Put my winter tarp cover thing on it.
Service the trailer hubs.
Wait for spring

[bassn386]

Everybody's situation is different, but here's what I do.
My boat(s) stay on a lift all year. I have one 2 stroke, Optimax, and one 4 stroke, Yamaha. I do the same for both engines:
I add SeaFoam (one ounce per gallon of fuel) and fill the tanks to about 90% capacity. I run the engines until they are completely warmed up and the SeaFoam has a chance to be thoroughly mixed and is in the engine.
I leave both starting batteries in the boat and hook up a trickle charger (750 Ma) until Spring. I charge the trolling batteries and then once-a-month thereafter to keep a charge (I won't be doing that this year because I'm going to replace them in the Spring).
Even though Yamaha recommends fogging the engine, I talked with the dealership where we bought the boat and they said they never fog. The mechanic said it fouls the plugs and at about $12 a plug that gets pretty expensive.

One other thing I do. Instead of using HumiDry, I use cheap charcoal briquets. I take them out of the bag and put them in a cheap plastic container. They do a good job of absorbing moisture and are a lot cheaper than the HumiDry.

Now all this talk of winterizing is depressing me.

[curtiscapk]

Everybody's situation is different, but here's what I do.
My boat(s) stay on a lift all year. I have one 2 stroke, Optimax, and one 4 stroke, Yamaha. I do the same for both engines:
I add SeaFoam (one ounce per gallon of fuel) and fill the tanks to about 90% capacity. I run the engines until they are completely warmed up and the SeaFoam has a chance to be thoroughly mixed and is in the engine.
I leave both starting batteries in the boat and hook up a trickle charger (750 Ma) until Spring. I charge the trolling batteries and then once-a-month thereafter to keep a charge (I won't be doing that this year because I'm going to replace them in the Spring).
Even though Yamaha recommends fogging the engine, I talked with the dealership where we bought the boat and they said they never fog. The mechanic said it fouls the plugs and at about $12 a plug that gets pretty expensive.

One other thing I do. Instead of using HumiDry, I use cheap charcoal briquets. I take them out of the bag and put them in a cheap plastic container. They do a good job of absorbing moisture and are a lot cheaper than the HumiDry.

Now all this talk of winterizing is depressing me.

Yep especially the last part, I add dryer sheets all over as well I will go overboard this year with the new interior.

[REPETE]

critter control - moth balls -moth balls - moth balls

[margaritaman]

critter control - moth balls -moth balls - moth balls

Hey Pete have you ever smell those?

How do you spread their legs open?

[evinrude2stroke]

I was going to use up all the gas in my removeable tanks. Should I not then?

Depends on your climate and your preference. I always fill it and add Stabil. You can also disconnect the tank and run the motor dry.

[Bamaman]

The trouble with boaters in moderate climates is that we don't know when to quit boating. We'll often have some nice days even as late as Christmas. And we seldom have to wear heavy coats, even.

We'll often be back on the water in early March.

In other words, we don't need to winterize that much--if using outboards. (I always drained the water out of my inboard outboard blocks--and never had air freeze.)

[katieclooney]

Love the charcoal idea!!

I am in northern Chicagoland area. So we will get snow, rain, sun, and wind all in one day.
I don't have a playpen cover, is it ok of they just shrink wrap or should I go find some cheap covers and cover the furniture?