Another prop question
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Re: Another prop question
If this is your first Michigan prop, you'll need their hub kit matched for your motor.
What is your motor's recommended maximum RPM? If it's ~6K RPM and you can pull 5800 RPM with a 17 pitch prop, 11 pitch is a big jump. I wonder if you have a spun prop/hub - or something else is not right. My DF90 had a 17 pitch prop and I could only get 5200 RPM. Going with MichWheel 13 pitch prop (in my case) allows me to get to 6K RPM.
What is your motor's recommended maximum RPM? If it's ~6K RPM and you can pull 5800 RPM with a 17 pitch prop, 11 pitch is a big jump. I wonder if you have a spun prop/hub - or something else is not right. My DF90 had a 17 pitch prop and I could only get 5200 RPM. Going with MichWheel 13 pitch prop (in my case) allows me to get to 6K RPM.
Paul
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Re: Another prop question
In the one pic tied up at the boat house, it looks like your starboard toon is sitting much lower in the water, it may be the dock lines causing it, just noticed and wondered if you have a bunch of water in that toon?bansil wrote: ↑Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:12 amno idea on engine, it is original according to titles and paperwork I havewwind3 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 17, 2018 4:46 pmTell me about the boat---is it rated for 90---or larger motor? Length, number of toons, weight, etc. If trimming up does nothing-you may be underpowered or too much weight in front of boat, etc..... FYI---I have 20ft Lowe 25in toons, 2 fishing seats up front-90 HP Merc Optimax, Merc SS prop 13 x 16in prop 27mph GPS
1990 Suzuki DT90
24 ft, 2 pedestal seats up front, no furniture (we use folding camp chairs) normal fuel load is about 15 gallons, 2 batteries, composite deck floor (about 250# more than marine ply and carpet) that about it
vcbd.png
Pensacola FL
2015 Berkshire 231 RFC
Yamaha F-150
2015 Berkshire 231 RFC
Yamaha F-150
Re: Another prop question
no water in toon, big gas tank in corner (moving it to in front of a new centered console this winter) so most of my wt is there
It sits even when dogs and wife on board
It sits even when dogs and wife on board
Check out "Dudes" site www.whereisdude.com
Re: Another prop question
not sure I have seen 4500/5500, 5000/6000 and 5000/6000 on 3 different chartsurbnsr wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:21 amIf this is your first Michigan prop, you'll need their hub kit matched for your motor.
What is your motor's recommended maximum RPM? If it's ~6K RPM and you can pull 5800 RPM with a 17 pitch prop, 11 pitch is a big jump. I wonder if you have a spun prop/hub - or something else is not right. My DF90 had a 17 pitch prop and I could only get 5200 RPM. Going with MichWheel 13 pitch prop (in my case) allows me to get to 6K RPM.
I was using a tach that wraps around a plug wire, so not 100% sure how accurate it was
From what I have read the big jump comes from going from 3 to 4 blades (I know big big azz old pontoon won't speed along, I just want more efficient and a couple miles more per hour, I ge passed by 40 and 50 hp boats with furniture and 4 or 5 people on board
Check out "Dudes" site www.whereisdude.com
Re: Another prop question
I have an 18 foot with a 40hp. It had a 30hp 2-stroke. Now I have blowout issues above about 2500 RPM. Now... I do have the older U-shaped pontoons so things might be different for the round tubes, but the motor came with a 14 pitch and it was just way over propped. I dropped to a 9 pitch and that made a huge difference. However I'm still blowing out. If I raise my motor so the cav plate is even with the bottom of the transom pod, the boat is barely usable. Blows out at anything above about 1500 RPM. So in my case, I think I need to drop it deeper, which, for me, means cutting the transom down.
Getting your boat propped right is the first thing you need to do. Look at the various prop calculators and find one that is closest to your boat configuration and weight. Go from there. I think the tritoon guys have it easier, but .... and especially for the older toons... we have 2 displacement hulls with a motor plunked down between them. We have wake turbulence coming off 2 hulls and meeting in the middle. Right where the motor is. My boat would have to be powered way beyond its rating to ever have any hope of getting those tubes "on plane".
Just a thought. Gather as much info as you can but unless you're talking to someone with the exact configuration you have, keep in mind your situation may have its own little twists and turns.
Getting your boat propped right is the first thing you need to do. Look at the various prop calculators and find one that is closest to your boat configuration and weight. Go from there. I think the tritoon guys have it easier, but .... and especially for the older toons... we have 2 displacement hulls with a motor plunked down between them. We have wake turbulence coming off 2 hulls and meeting in the middle. Right where the motor is. My boat would have to be powered way beyond its rating to ever have any hope of getting those tubes "on plane".
Just a thought. Gather as much info as you can but unless you're talking to someone with the exact configuration you have, keep in mind your situation may have its own little twists and turns.
Re: Another prop question
When I last talked to Michigan Wheel, they recommended that I reduce the diameter by 1/2" when going from 3 blade to 4 blade. They said the reduced diameter makes up for the additional blade. I'm not sure about the difference from 3 to 4 blade. And, not that it matters here, but earlier I said I went from 17 pitch to 13, but it was from 17 pitch 3-blade to 15 pitch 13-3/8" diameter 4-blade.
Paul
Re: Another prop question
Well after talking with propgods and a couple others, i found a NOS--> SOLAS AMITA 4 SD4X13.25X13R 4413-133-13, comes with a suzuki hub for wayyyyy cheaper, box is really faded, prop looks NIB though
It should give me a couple mph but biggest advantage should be more low/mid torque to fight current and wind and should be moar efficient mpg, we will see hopefully next weekend
It should give me a couple mph but biggest advantage should be more low/mid torque to fight current and wind and should be moar efficient mpg, we will see hopefully next weekend
Check out "Dudes" site www.whereisdude.com
Re: Another prop question
So the man in the brown truck drop this off yesterday
Hopefully can get it changed this weekend, will I need a puller? of just a rubber mallet?
Hopefully can get it changed this weekend, will I need a puller? of just a rubber mallet?
Check out "Dudes" site www.whereisdude.com
Re: Another prop question
Do you have a cotter pin holding prop? Usually just remove pin and unscrew the locking nut. I use a block of wood to wedge the prop against the motor to keep it from spinning--no hammers needed probably.
Big Crescent wrench should do the trick
2009 LOWE SS204 25in logs
90 Merc Optimax
Motorguide W55 Wireless
Underskinning
28 GPS
90 Merc Optimax
Motorguide W55 Wireless
Underskinning
28 GPS
Re: Another prop question
Thanks!, Plan is to stop at boat tonight after work and see what i will need, great hint about wood!
Check out "Dudes" site www.whereisdude.com
Re: Another prop question
U R welcome--here's a short video--sped up but u get the idea.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dM6Qpix_Hh0
2009 LOWE SS204 25in logs
90 Merc Optimax
Motorguide W55 Wireless
Underskinning
28 GPS
90 Merc Optimax
Motorguide W55 Wireless
Underskinning
28 GPS
Re: Another prop question
I changed my prop twice without taking the boat out of the water. Once I did it alone by backing it to a launch ramp. Then pulled it so the stern was in shallow water with the motor tilted all the way up. Stood in water about ankle deep and changed the prop.
Second time was at the dock in the marina. Turned the boat around and backed it in, tilted motor up, layed on the dock and changed prop. Boat was secured to dock so it barely moved at all.
In my mind I was making it much harder than it actually turned out to be. Even used a torque wrench to torque to spec both times. I'd have no qualms about doing it again.
You need a piece of wood (I used about a 12 inch piece of 2x4), wrench to fit the prop but, needle nose for pulling the cotter pin, and don't forget the grease!
Oh and a torque wrench if ya have one.
Second time was at the dock in the marina. Turned the boat around and backed it in, tilted motor up, layed on the dock and changed prop. Boat was secured to dock so it barely moved at all.
In my mind I was making it much harder than it actually turned out to be. Even used a torque wrench to torque to spec both times. I'd have no qualms about doing it again.
You need a piece of wood (I used about a 12 inch piece of 2x4), wrench to fit the prop but, needle nose for pulling the cotter pin, and don't forget the grease!
Oh and a torque wrench if ya have one.
Re: Another prop question
That was my plan also, trim up an over dock, or we have a boat ramp at marina seldom used.
I just found out we have a family reunion Saturday, glad it is just across the field, prop will wait until Sunday.
I can't get boat in slip alone, too tight and i actually respect my neighbors boat...them tho ?
I can't wait to see if hub is also spun...something is amiss more than propped wrong, heavy pontoon that likes 10/12 at anything above 4000 rpm that doesn't add up to me
I just found out we have a family reunion Saturday, glad it is just across the field, prop will wait until Sunday.
I can't get boat in slip alone, too tight and i actually respect my neighbors boat...them tho ?
I can't wait to see if hub is also spun...something is amiss more than propped wrong, heavy pontoon that likes 10/12 at anything above 4000 rpm that doesn't add up to me
Check out "Dudes" site www.whereisdude.com