Soliciting Opinions re: Trailer Bunks

[Doctordeere]

When we bought the new 'toon I was able to save a few bucks because I still had the trailer from the old one from several years ago. It's a 1998 Moonbeam single axle built for a 24'er (1998 Smokercraft Sunsport). I'm modding the trailer to be fitted for a 20 footer, mainly because of where the boat shed is there's a fence that's too damn close to the bay, and by shortening the tongue it will be a ton easier to maneuver into the spot.

So, tomorrow morning, weather permitting...
* 48" will be whacked off the tongue. Already got the new coupler & hardware, and batteries are charged for the cordless Sawzall & drill.
*The axle gets moved 18" to the rear (I measured a neighbor's 20' 'toon trailer for reference).

I've already relocated the winch post four feet back (took a whopping ten minutes), so I'm estimating aroud 45-90 minutes to complete the project once the boat's dumped in the water. It's seen fresh water use only, has no brakes and none of the hardware is rusted up.

Here's the question... Not included in the 45-90 min work for tomorrow morning I also plan to shorten the bunks (carpeted 4x6's) to match the 20 footer, which is no problem since the bracket spacing is perfect for hacking off 48" of bunk. The carpet isn't torn but it's rough, so I need input on whether to recarpet, replace the 2x6 bunks with the synthetic stuff they use on decks these days (which ought to slide pretty well uncarpeted), or just add those glide pads (whatever they're called). Ultimate goal is to get the 'toon to slide off & on a bit easier.

Help a brother out with an opinion or two, please?

[BoatCop]

The synthetic composite deck boards are not advised for a boat trailer. For a deck, they're fine, because they're fully supported along the length of the board. For a boat trailer bunk, they're only supported every 3-4 feet or more. The composite boards flex and will sag between the braces. Instead of the board supporting the boat hull all along the board's length, it would only support it where the braces are, which could cause problems for the hull. Or pontoon, in our case.

Better just to use carpeted, pressure treated (green) 2x6s.

[Bamaman]

I go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a couple of feet of their generic indoor/outdoor carpet--brown.

I cut it in strips and put it on the bunks with the long roofing nails.

Whenever it wears out, replacement carpet is easily found.

[chill'nthemost]

Bunk caps from Eastern Marine.......we don't need no stinkn' carpet

[ROLAND]

Doctordeere... I think If I were going to completely redo my bunks I'd probably go with what Chillin has pictured in the post above..... My bunks are carpeted and still in good shape so to help sliding on and off the bunks, I bought a can of liquid rollers and spray it directly to the carpet every so often. works great... just remember to always make sure you have your winch strap hooked until you are backed down the launch and ready to put the boat in... and make sure when you load that you hook the strap back up 'BEFORE" you pull away from the launch. I have a friend who used a similar product and it make the trailer so slippery that when they were backing down the launch ( they had already unhooked the strap ) that they're boat slid right off the trailer and onto the concrete launch... tore the hell out of their lower unit and did thousands of dollars in damage to their fiberglass hull..... Even before I started using liquid rollers I always made sure the strap was hooked... no point in taking that kind of a chance even with bunks that are just " wet "....

[GregF]

You could use the composite deck boards if you put a stiffener on the bottom site using 2x PT lumber in a "T" configuration. The composite would isolate the PT from the toons. Just be sure to use SS deck screws and countersink them. You can get the composite in 1.5" but probably not at a big box store. That is what we usually use for docks here. It keeps the spans reasonable.

[Bamaman]

I stepped out and used Trex on my deck. They suggest 12' framing with Trex--vs. 16" framing on 5/4 x 6 lumber. It's not very structurally sound.

All their advertising about no maintenance is a bunch of bull. Trex gets dirty and mildewy and has to be cleaned using chemical cleaners. It certainly doesn't look like new very long.

As far as using it on bunks, Greg F has a good suggestion. I personally don't like my boat sitting on anything too slick. Indoor outdoor carpet does the job for me, and my boat comes off easy enough.

Last time I had something on a slick trailer floor, I dropped it off the back end of my utility trailer. Unfortunately that something was a 500 pound gun safe sitting in the middle of a 4 lane hwy.

[GregF]

There are some solid plastic decking alternatives in 1.5" that overcome the Trex problems but it is pricy.

[tracker2]

Better just to use carpeted, pressure treated (green) 2x6s.

As has been discussed and cussed before, pressure treated wood is an insect treatment and not needed on trailer bunks. The green treatment is also detrimental to the well being of aluminum. It also warps like hell. Just use some good straight construction fir or pine with some cheap indoor/outdoor carpet and you'll be good to go....

[fredeboy]

Well I finally got around to installing my new bunks with the 1/2" blue slick material discussed here several months ago. After reading the results of several others about how slick the material was during loading and unloading and how easy it could slip back if the strap was not attached I decided to create a hybrid model!!. I purchased untreated 2x4's at my local friendly big box store and since the blue material is 1/2" thick, I ripped some 1/2" pieces of high density plywood 4 feet long x 3 1/2". I sealed the 2x4 and plywood on all sides and edges with 4 coats of a high quality sealer from Rainguard, glued and screwed the plywood strips to the back 4 feet of 2x, then put new bunk carpet on that part. The thought process was when backing down the toons has some friction from the carpet but as soon as they float just a little you have nothing but slick. It has really worked nice and the loading and unloading are MUCH easier!

Trailer for web 2.jpg (26.88 KiB) Viewed 3509 times

[Drago]

Cool! Looks like a winning solution. Mine are really, really slick and I wonder how hard it would be to release the strap on a very steep ramp. Or keep the boat against the stops in that same similar situation when loading. I might just have to edge the front on and walk the strap hook down the trailer to pull the boat up on it completely.

[Doctordeere]

Thanks for the pointers!
Has anyone tried using auto-store spray silicone on the carpet? I believe that silicone is the main ingredient in Liquid Rollers?

[badmoonrising]

Better just to use carpeted, pressure treated (green) 2x6s.

As has been discussed and cussed before, pressure treated wood is an insect treatment and not needed on trailer bunks. The green treatment is also detrimental to the well being of aluminum. It also warps like hell. Just use some good straight construction fir or pine with some cheap indoor/outdoor carpet and you'll be good to go....

Yep, PT will eat through aluminum like Rosie O'Donnell on a box of donuts.

[Doctordeere]

Yep, PT will eat through aluminum like Rosie O'Donnell on a box of donuts.

Well damn. There's a great mental image just before dinnertime.

[badmoonrising]