The picture is somewhat out of focus but that doesn't look bad enough to go through the hassle of welding it up. The bullet is pretty thick right there.
You will need to remove all the guts before he welds it and you have a chance of warping the casting so it won't go back together. I would clean it up real well, fill it with JB, sand that down so it is smooth and shoot some paint on it. That is rough enough now that it could cause some turbulence and ventilate the prop a little. Chances are you still might never notice a thing.
hit a rock today not much damage but a question
Moderators: Redneck_Randy, badmoonrising, lakerunner
Re: hit a rock today not much damage but a question
1974 Harris
70 HP 4 stroke EFI Yamaha
70 HP 4 stroke EFI Yamaha
Re: hit a rock today not much damage but a question
I will try again
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2001 22' Tracker Regency (sold)
2001 Mercury 90 HP (sold)
Elm Grove, La
Lake Bistineau
2001 Mercury 90 HP (sold)
Elm Grove, La
Lake Bistineau
Re: hit a rock today not much damage but a question
That metal is at least 1/4" think right there and in the webs for the bearing seats it is a lot thicker. The black knight would say, You just have a flesh wound.
1974 Harris
70 HP 4 stroke EFI Yamaha
70 HP 4 stroke EFI Yamaha
Re: hit a rock today not much damage but a question
That's what i was kinda thinking thankful wasn't sure how thick it was there. I suppose I need jb weld now. Some paint.I think offer were going any faster I think I wouldn't've lost her.
2017 Bennington 22ssrx
115 Yamaha
karavan Trailer
2014 Chev tahoe
_________________________
Port Of Bismarck ND
115 Yamaha
karavan Trailer
2014 Chev tahoe
_________________________
Port Of Bismarck ND
Re: hit a rock today not much damage but a question
The cone of the bullet is the toughest part of the lower unit. You still don't to hit rocks but you lived through this one. Just be sure to get that spot real clean so the epoxy bonds. brush it and wipe it down with some kind of solvent. Acetone is the best with any epoxy but lacquer thinner or alcohol will work. You just want to be sure there is no oil or other contaminant in there. Epoxy is great stuff if you have clean surfaces and you work the goo into every little crevice.
If you feather it in and make it match the contour you will never know it is there after a coat of paint. A sanding sponge might be the right tool once you get the high spots knocked down.
If you feather it in and make it match the contour you will never know it is there after a coat of paint. A sanding sponge might be the right tool once you get the high spots knocked down.
1974 Harris
70 HP 4 stroke EFI Yamaha
70 HP 4 stroke EFI Yamaha
Re: hit a rock today not much damage but a question
Also have heard of people using chap stick....whatever workstkrein wrote:The wax from a crayon helps the snaps go on and off easier helps save on them. Think of it as lubricator for the snaps if they get hard Tomaso or unsnap take a crayon and run it into the snap works like Achaean every time.LocoCoco wrote:tkrein wrote:...Also had them take a crayon and do the snaps...
Huh?
LC.
Roland & Jo
2010 Bennington 20 Sfi
Yamaha 75 4 Stroke
Shreveport, Louisiana
2010 Bennington 20 Sfi
Yamaha 75 4 Stroke
Shreveport, Louisiana
Re: hit a rock today not much damage but a question
ROLAND wrote:Also have heard of people using chap stick....whatever workstkrein wrote:The wax from a crayon helps the snaps go on and off easier helps save on them. Think of it as lubricator for the snaps if they get hard Tomaso or unsnap take a crayon and run it into the snap works like Achaean every time.
I'm gonna try out the crayons, thanks! I can see Chapstick working too but I can also imagine it'd be more likely to collect dirt.
For your gouged motor, I'd also go the JB Weld route.
LC.
'06 Odyssey 222C (Tritoon conversion) + '06 Suzuki 40 = Never lose your hat.