1999 Sun Tracker 21' w/40hp Tracker motor by Mercury

[GoFastr]

Picked up a 1999 Sun Tracker 21 ft Signature Series Party Barge from a friend of the family who didn't have time for it anymore and it was going to crap on him. Got it really cheap and it needs a lot of TLC and a couple tweaks.

First I need to know for sure what the stock prop was (diameter/pitch) for this boat/moter configuration stock from Sun Tracker. The motor cowling sez Tracker and by Mercury 40 hp. On the inside on the power head there's an emissions sticker that also sez 40-50 hp Force. Down by the cavitation plate there's a gear ratio sticker that sez 13x26 2.00:1. The prop that came with it is in pretty bad shape and needs replaced and i can't make out any numbers/letters stamped on it for reference, but doin a rough measure with a ruler it looks to be 10.5" diameter. So any info from a current or former owner with this setup would be great, cause I'm not finding anything solid googling it. Also any other good prop experiment info to improve performance would be nice as well cause this tub is slow as death, granted the prop is crap.

Second issue is I get just a click when turning the ignition switch to start. After a lot of clicking, it will eventually fire up. Once running it runs great. I've cleaned all the battery connectors, solenoid connectors, bought new battery, sprayed electrical cleaner in the ignition switch itself and checked the connectors on the back of the switch. I'm leaning towards going ahead replacing the starter solenoid on the motor. Also thought maybe the switch itself could be bad. Where would I find a part number for it so i can replace it. It's a push in to choke type switch. Oh yeah, the previous owner had just replaced the starter on it in 2011 and it looks it. All wiring is clean and tight. Any info would be greatly appreciated as to hasten the fix.

[GregF]

You can try jumping out the solenoid by shorting the 2 big terminals together. If it turns over the solenoid is bad.
I am betting that is a 9 pitch prop.

[badmoonrising]

Yep, I'd bet a bad solenoid. They are made in China these days and are crap.

[GoFastr]

Yeah I'm kinda using my car and big block powerboat experience/instincts to ascertain that it's a solenoid given the fact all the other "basics" have been addressed and look good. I'll still try and find a replacement ignition switch just to cover all the simple bases and also because it had been exposed to the elements going into it's 13th year. I was going to do the jump thing on the solenoid the other day, but it was so tight in there I didn't want to cause a self-inflicted wound by accidentally shorting something else out like the voltage regulator or something. So today I will make myself a jumper wire with an alligator clip on one end to clip to one terminal and touch the other to the other terminal. Meanwhile there were no solenoids in stock locally and have to wait for it to come in on Wednesday. $57 with tax for the bugger from the Marine parts store (cause it sez marine right). I was wondering if there was a cheaper automobile solenoid from GM or Ford that would crossover for half the price?. The guts of these things can't be too different from one another other than mounting.

Looking at the prop again this morning and doin a little more scrapin/cleanin, it appears on the prop nut end there's two characters stamped on the end on opposite sides. One is the letter A, the other is the number 3. Not sure if that means anything. The other end has a set of numbers but it's too shot to make out any of them. I measured again and still get 10.5" diameter.

Also I'm assuming in order to change out the impeller I have to drop off the lower unit?

[Bamaman]

You're smart to change the impeller. Anytime someone purchases a used boat, they need to change the impeller immediately and checkout/repack the bearings on the trailer. You don't want any surprises.

The lower units just take a couple of minutes to drop. You'll most often have to remove the trim tab on the back of the anticavitation plate. Sometimes there's a bolt going up from below that holds the lower unit up. Get out all the bolts and they usually drop down easily.

I'm sure you can find lower unit removal instructions and a video on UTube.

It's also important to periodically remove the lower unit grease, and look for any sign of water. Then have the gear case pressure and vacuum tested--to see if the seals are good. New seals are about a $350 mechanic job, and they are also covered on UTube.

I didn't properly maintain my lower unit, and ended up buying a whole new boat. The parts in a lower unit are very expensive, and purchasing a salvage or used lower unit is a gamble. They've got to be checked out carefully. You don't want to have to buy a new lower unit--cost prohibited.

[GregF]

If that is the same solenoid my 1990 Merc used, get one at a lawn tractor parts guy.

[GoFastr]

Unfortunately the "good deal" didn't come with a trailer. Nuther one of my projects will be rigging a couple 2 x 8's on my standard boatlift just to raise it out of the water to scrape a few barnacles off the bottom. Gonna have to borrow a toon trailer from someone for a couple days to do the outdrive maintenance.

[GoFastr]

did the jumper wire trick and the starter did in fact engage repeatedly pretty zeroing in on the solenoid. I've got the new one in hand and about to go out and replace it. After i ordered i dfound this website that showed five different part number options for this motor with of course Mercury/Quicksilver being the most expensive http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercu ... 2VT/2532_2

Also got a new stereo kit from Boater's Warehouse i will be changing out as well. Until I read or find different, I'm gonna assume the factory installed prop for this combo is a 10.5" x 9p prop.

[GoFastr]

Well today I replaced the solenoid and "fixed" the starting issue. Now when I hit the key it starts so fast it's surprising. I also cleaned up the prop best i could and re-paintee, which has one chipped blade, and at wide open throttle saw 9mph on my iPhone GPS speedo at 47/4800 rpm. I'm thinkin that's about 500 below where it should be. Best guessestimate is the prop is a 10.5" (using ruler) x 9p aluminum prop. Previous owner sez it's the stock factory. I'm thinkin either the diameter or pitch needs to change to reach what I think should be at or near the 5250 rpm for this setup to get 12-15mph with okay punch out of the hole for say pulling a small kid on the tube. Maybe the pitch isn't 9p after all? Should it be 11.5 x 9p?

I'd love to hear from someone who has this same boat/motor setup and what prop they have or use and any other experimental prop results they have discovered. Granted, 40hp on this 21' flat deck is not expected to see spectacular results, but it doesn't mean I should not be trying to maximize what it can and should do for either cocktail cruzin or tubin a young one.

[GoFastr]

BTW go to this website and note the variations or cross references for the solenoid (item #37). Note the cheapest are from a Chrysler auto version at half the cost.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercu ... 2VT/2532_2

[GregF]

When I had my Merc the lawn tractor place beat the auto parts guy. It is all the same basic solenoid.

[GoFastr]

I called spoke with the Sun Tracker folks in Missouri and the local dealer. Both were conflicting but agreed the rpm range was 4750-5250 for this setup. Finally went to a reputable local prop shop (after calling ahead) that deals with boat props of all shapes and sizes. I took the current prop in with me and it turned out to be a 10.7/8 x 11. In discussion about use, avg number of passengers etc, they gave me a 12.5" x 8 prop that appeared a bit larger mostly in the size of the blades themselves (big dog ears) in addition to diameter. I was told when out by myself it might over rev a bit, but as i added passengers/weight or pulled a tube it would come down and be the most beneficial overall. So I'll find out how it does over the weekend. If there's a disappointment, they said bring it back and they would give me an adjustment prop according to the results.