Had to drain the toons

[Shopguy]

Yep, pulled the toon out from the shop to do some cleanin and my boy said he heard water sloshing in the port side. Guess it was only a matter of time.
I took an 1/8" bit and drilled all three logs about 3/8" from the bottom. My plan is to use 1/4" nut zerks (since I have the tools) with sealer and then use a bolt with a nylon washer. Check it periodically to see how much water we're taking on.

A nut zerk works like a rivet. We use them in places where you can't weld a nut on the back side of metal. For a 1/4" bolt, you oversize the hole just enough to get the nut zerk in and insert the nut using the tool to compress the nut from the backside (like a rivet). Gotta use sealer for under water and sinch it down tight. Quick and easy.

Should work for now until I get my TIG wired in the shop so I can weld in some 1/2" bungs with plastic plugs later.

[lakerunner]

I have had a small leak in one nose cone for years and I use a #10 stainless screw with a rubber washer. It works great.

[rlcrews]

glad you made this post with some of the comments you made . this leads me to a question i wanted to make my own post with which is why do they use a plastic instead of galvanized plug in the toons ?

[lakerunner]

A galvanized plug will cause corrosion between the two metals. You must use Aluminum, plastic or Stainless Steel.

[Shopguy]

Yep, can't use two diff metals together in water. I always use antisieze regardless, just keeps whatever it is from locking up, especially if you plan on taking it back apart.

also thought about putting a screw in it. I did my dad's toon that way and works well also. If I didn't have the zerk kit I'd do the same. Figured I'd fancy it up a little.

In a jam I guess you could use those plastic drywall anchors too. Pop one in and put a screw in it.