First Winter with the Boat

[katieclooney]

Its 180 for the shrink wrap ($10 a foot)
and then 135.

I tried to see if theres a deal, I got laughed at

I want to do it myself, but no one is around to show me. And I am a Murphys Law so I just know something will come up once I open the engine up.

Im kinda leaning towards paying the 135 for peace of mind

[evinrude2stroke]

Its 180 for the shrink wrap ($10 a foot)
and then 135.

I tried to see if theres a deal, I got laughed at

I want to do it myself, but no one is around to show me. And I am a Murphys Law so I just know something will come up once I open the engine up.

Im kinda leaning towards paying the 135 for peace of mind

Absolutely, And for what it's worth..that's a great deal on the shrink wrap. Mine is an 18ft also and I pay just under $300 for the wrap.

[katieclooney]

wow that is expensive for wrapping.
$10 a foot seems average around here. Ive seen it as low as $8 a foot.

I think im going to bite the bullet and just have them do it.


AND I found out that the channel that leads in and out of my marina has a shallow side ( no one told me), the mobile mechanic told me to "unwind a paper clip, and unclog the hole. Evinrudes are sturdy so it would take more than a little Chain gunk to ruin it. You are over thinking this."
He knows me too well

[evinrude2stroke]

wow that is expensive for wrapping.
$10 a foot seems average around here. Ive seen it as low as $8 a foot.

I think im going to bite the bullet and just have them do it.


AND I found out that the channel that leads in and out of my marina has a shallow side ( no one told me), the mobile mechanic told me to "unwind a paper clip, and unclog the hole. Evinrudes are sturdy so it would take more than a little Chain gunk to ruin it. You are over thinking this."
He knows me too well

Lol. Don't we all....over think this stuff. Try the paperclip, my older Merc used to get clogged at the pee hole all the time.

Yea, unfortunately that's close to the going rate around here. I'm sure I could find someone cheaper if I really looked around but I don't want to sever the relationship I have with my marina. Their service is good when I need it so it's worth the extra money.

[jayw]

[I'm guessing you are on the Fox Chain. Last Saturday the wind was brutal. We used to have a smaller 2 toon Sylvan. Once we got the JC tritoon it changed pontooning, we no longer fear the chop - though still don't enjoy super windy days. Wind coupled with the chop from the 38' offshore boats churning the chain water makes for an uncomfortable ride on any boat that can't get above the chop. Anyways...]

I used to winterize myself, I've done it over the years on many boats, but now w/o a trailer I have the marinas do most of my work. Here is my checklist developed over a long time. I used it for the 2001 Merc 40 HP oil injected 2 stroke we had on the Sylvan.

Requires:
socket set/spark plug wrench
prop wrench/chunk of 2x4 (wedge to assist in removing prop)
linesman pliers
needlenose piers
gap gauge
spark plug gap info. for engine
silicone spray
fogging oil
1 can Seafoam
new set of lower unit gearcase drain plug washers
new spark plugs (optionally)
grease gun w/ marine grease
drain pan
measuring cup (to catch gas out of bowl drain)
lower unit lube & pump
vinyl conditioner
plenty of rags

Steps to Winterize 2 Stroke O/B:
take boat for a nice 1 hr ride with 1/2 can of Seafoam in 1 full 6 gal. tank of gas

shut off engine at dock
pull cowl & plastic carb port plug. start motor, let idle
spray fogging oil slowly into carb port until engine dies (don't run oil injected motor out of gas)
disconnect fuel line at engine
raise motor
trailer boat & pull from water
------
lower engine all the way for 1/2 hr to drain all water (continue with steps below, thru "grease motor zirk fittings" as water is draining)
replace carb port plug
pull kill switch lanyard
mark plug wires order with permanent marker or tape
pull plug wires
remove spark plugs; inspect for condition. set aside or discard.
fog each cylinder
crank engine by hand by spinning flywheel (or giving key a quick turn)
re-fog cylinders
regap and reinstall plugs or install new, gapped, fresh plugs. dab clean oil on threads.
replace ignition wires
loosen brass drain plug on carb bowl bottom to drain fuel from bowl (use TBSP measuring cup to catch fuel)
tighten brass drain plug. do not overtighten!
lightly mist silicone spray over power head. AVOID ELECTRICAL CONTACTS.
replace cowl
------
place drain pan under lower unit
remove lower drain plug first, then remove top to relief pressure
drain lower unit lube into drain pan
fill with fresh lube from bottom port
replace top plug (using new gasket) first once case is filled and CLEAN LUBE comes out of top port (be sure to replace plug washers each lube change)
if old lube is milky white (contains water) or has metal shaving, further investigation into cause is warranted
replace lower plug using new gasket
grease all motor zirk fittings including cowl latch
------
raise motor
engage tow pin
remove battery; store in basement. do not set battery directly on concrete.
remove prop; grease shaft generously with marine grease. replace prop. tighten nut & insert cotter pin
cover prop with thick plastic bag and duct tape around it
Treat spare fuel tank with Seafoam & shake gently a few times
grease trailer wheels thru grease fittings using grease gun
------
remove & store indoors:
fire extinguisher
battery
1st aid kit
fenders (fenders will deflate in cold)
------
throw moth bags all around deck & under seats
wipe all vinyl generously with vinyl conditioner
cover boat
call for shrink wrap
DONE

Sounds like a LOT but it's really not. It's 2 hrs work total, and you have peace of mind. I promise you, if you pay someone they wont do everything above.

Some people change the gear lube after the winter. If there is ANY water inside you may be sorry you did so. One season we had water, because the drain plug gasket was old and hard and flat and let water seep in. Had we not found that in the fall, and it froze, and we used the motor in the spring w/o knowing - goodbye gears, hello expensive fix.

Antifreeze: some feel you should use a "beer bong" contraption on the dog ears to draw marine antifreeze into motor. That is so that if ANY water is trapped, it is treated. I never had a problem w/o doing this.

[curtiscapk]

Great write up and I don't think you missed anything! We do however put in charcoal and dryer sheets instead of mothballs... that smell makes me wanna

[Capt Sully]

Jayw, nice write up, but how about a 4 Stroke ? anything different ?

[katieclooney]

Bingo Jay! I am on the Chain. Saturday was brutal and I shudder to think about it.

Awesome write up on the winterizing I am still up in the air as to letting the marina due it and have peace of mind, or just doing it myself. I have a mech friend who could show me but hes also in the snowmobiling business so of course October is the kick off to their season and is booked until Nov.
I do not have a trailer either so id be put on blocks and do it.

[jayw]

Jayw, nice write up, but how about a 4 Stroke ? anything different ?

I would NOT run any fuel injected engine out of gas. Treat fuel and run motor as in step 1, then leave fuel system alone. Delete all carb steps of course. Change motor oil. Some say do so in the spring. Some say it's not necessary to fog a 4 stroke. I would. Use starter to rotate crank & move pistons, as opposed to rotating flywheel by hand. Just give the key a flick with the kill switch pulled.

I know my Suzuki take 9+ qts of oil, Suzuki oil qts. $8 each, they charge me $150 to change the oil I think. But it's in the winter pkg so maybe I'm getting a little break.

[jayw]

Great write up and I don't think you missed anything! We do however put in charcoal and dryer sheets instead of mothballs... that smell makes me wanna

I use moth sacks, not mothballs. We store indoors in a place that's busy all year so no chance of raccoons getting in. Mice is another story, but so far OK.

Careful storing outside. Ever seen what raccoons do to boat seats? HOLY CRAP they make a mess.

[jayw]

Bingo Jay! I am on the Chain. Saturday was brutal and I shudder to think about it.

Awesome write up on the winterizing I am still up in the air as to letting the marina due it and have peace of mind, or just doing it myself. I have a mech friend who could show me but hes also in the snowmobiling business so of course October is the kick off to their season and is booked until Nov.
I do not have a trailer either so id be put on blocks and do it.

Without a trailer how do you plan to get out? We have in & out service on a forklift at Bald Knob. Try Lighthouse Marina, they may give you a remarkable price for the whole thing. And you can just go have lunch that Saturday instead of winterizing. Todd & Dick at Lighthouse Marine on Pistakee Lake. Among the best. I would recommend Bald Knob but price is higher. We actually store off the chain, at Liberty marine Center in Grayslake. He can be pricey too but he sold us the boat so we use him, for now at least.

In fact as we're writing this I am packing my stuff and heading out for what looks to be the last nice warm day for at least the next 10. I am heading to the water in 3 minutes. F'cast rest of week is warm & wet, then sunny & cool into next week. This is the winner day, so off I go.

[redbeard]

Guys I may be wrong but my understanding about the kill switch is that it will kill a running motor dead, turn the key off and it will start back up so that you can go and pick the man over broad back up. Is this right or am I wrong?

[curtiscapk]

Guys I may be wrong but my understanding about the kill switch is that it will kill a running motor dead, turn the key off and it will start back up so that you can go and pick the man over broad back up. Is this right or am I wrong?

Not sure on an actual kill switch but my run\off switch (no lanyard) will not start unless it is in the run position. With all my wiring issues I learned alot about all the different hookups. I would assume that if the lanyard gets yanked it is dead until it gets put back in. Similar to my toggle switch.

[katieclooney]

Bingo Jay! I am on the Chain. Saturday was brutal and I shudder to think about it.

Awesome write up on the winterizing I am still up in the air as to letting the marina due it and have peace of mind, or just doing it myself. I have a mech friend who could show me but hes also in the snowmobiling business so of course October is the kick off to their season and is booked until Nov.
I do not have a trailer either so id be put on blocks and do it.

Without a trailer how do you plan to get out? We have in & out service on a forklift at Bald Knob. Try Lighthouse Marina, they may give you a remarkable price for the whole thing. And you can just go have lunch that Saturday instead of winterizing. Todd & Dick at Lighthouse Marine on Pistakee Lake. Among the best. I would recommend Bald Knob but price is higher. We actually store off the chain, at Liberty marine Center in Grayslake. He can be pricey too but he sold us the boat so we use him, for now at least.

In fact as we're writing this I am packing my stuff and heading out for what looks to be the last nice warm day for at least the next 10. I am heading to the water in 3 minutes. F'cast rest of week is warm & wet, then sunny & cool into next week. This is the winner day, so off I go.

I am over at Rustic and will keep her there. They pull her and put her on blocks. Its full service so I just let them do it and I don't have to worry about the trailer. Todd at Lighthouse does my mechanical work on my car Hes a good guy. Id take her there if there ever is a time I could drive her to him by water.

[lakerunner]

Guys I may be wrong but my understanding about the kill switch is that it will kill a running motor dead, turn the key off and it will start back up so that you can go and pick the man over broad back up. Is this right or am I wrong?

Dead until reset