1st pontoon-1st time winterizng

[AR72Buckfever]

Hello Everyone

I've read just about every posting about winterizing on this forum plus on other forums also. I'm new to the forum and would like to get some questions answered. I'll be winterizing my boat, just cant see spending the money for something I can do & making sure it was done right. My pontoon was one of the biggest intvestments I've ever done and I want it right. So here I go.

I have a 2008 SunTracker 22 Party Barge Regency Edition with 3.0 Mercrusier I/O.

I've read 2 different ways about winterizing the block.
1. Drain the water out
2. Run the pink anti freeze though the block
Which process is better to help with rush & corrison?

If i go with pink anti freeze do I drain the blue quick connect hoses? These hoses has no return and I believe water will still be in the hoses.

I'm in the process of getting owner manuals for the engine and lower unit.
Can anyone tell me what weight oil & how many qts the engine will take and oil filter part # for the engine and weight of oil for the lower unit to use?

Step I will take for winterinzing:
Sta-bil Marine (Blue) in the tank and fill tank up
Muffs on with water running and start engine and let run for about 10 mins to get Sta-bil in line & carb
Also fogging the engine but will figure this part out when I decide on the process of draining or pink anti freeze.
I have a water seperater in line to the carb this will be changed.
Lower unit oil changed
Oil & filter changed

Thanks for the help.

[tuned]

Your list looks pretty good. You might want to check your documents for other drains. There are usually a couple up on the exhaust pipes as they are water cooled.

Don't forget to replace your water pump impellor every three years +/-

Now about your engine-many people just run the pink stuff in, but I believe it to be a minor mistake for a couple of reasons:
1. If for some reason, it doesn't get circulated to every section of the motor, you might be at risk. It potentially can mix with water pockets and dilute down to the point of freeze risk.
2. It is important to get the scale out of your motor periodically. This can only be done by opening your block drains. VERY IMPORTANT, make sure to poke the drains with a wire so that the scale runs out freely with the water. Sometimes the scale will plug these drains. If you have a 'flush' fitting, then power flush the scale out.

Finally, run the pink stuff in and fog at shutdown. Running in the pink stuff has a couple of advantages as well:
1. It is good insurance against any water pockets (hoses?) that might have been missed by the draining process.
2. It usually contains a bit of corrosion inhibitor

Some people just drain and don't use the RV stuff. Some use the RV stuff and don't drain. I choose both for piece of mind.

Once I get the process figured out for a given engine, I usually type up a 'quick card' so that I don't have to think so hard next year. My aging brain needs all the help it can get

[jimrs]

We all have our ways and reasons on how and what to do.

I used to put the muff on and run the engine until the thermostat opens then shut off the engine and replace the water hose with a section of hose and a large automatic transmission funnel. Fill it with antifreeze start the engine and let someone keep pouring in the antifreeze until it starts coming out of the exhaust. Then shut down the engine. I left the antifreeze in the motor to eliminate rusting in the water jackets. A empty water jacket is subject to rusting real fast without water or antifreeze in it. Most time it took about 1 1/2gals of antifreeze before it got enough to start showing up in the exhaust. A small price to pay for saving a cracked head or block or rusted out exhaust manifolds.

I never had to replace a exhaust manifold or any other part of the system when I did this.

[margaritaman]

Jimrs, you winterize your boats in Louisiana?

[badmoonrising]

I've read 2 different ways about winterizing the block.
1. Drain the water out
2. Run the pink anti freeze though the block
Which process is better to help with rush & corrison?



If i go with pink anti freeze do I drain the blue quick connect hoses? These hoses has no return and I believe water will still be in the hoses.

I did (until I sold my 2 I/O boats that is) what others posted. Start engine, run until hot. Hook up antifreeze tank, run until antifreeze flows out the reliefs. As for the quick drains, tilt them down ward AFTER the above step briefly. Any water in them will be forced out by the antifreeze.

Can anyone tell me what weight oil & how many qts the engine will take and oil filter part # for the engine and weight of oil for the lower unit to use?

Engine oil: SAE 30 4 3/4 quarts. Oil filter is Mercruiser Part #35866340K01 or a WIX 57099. Gear oil SAE 90.

Sta-bil Marine (Blue) in the tank and fill tank up

Muffs on with water running and start engine and let run for about 10 mins to get Sta-bil in line & carb

I always drained my tank and ran Startron through the last couple of trips out before winterizing. No fuel in tank = no fuel to go bad.

Also fogging the engine but will figure this part out when I decide on the process of draining or pink anti freeze.

remove spark arrestor, spray into carb as you are running antifreeze into the water intake. Just as I see pink, I spray until the engine stalls. Disconnect coil wire, remove spark plugs and spray a little in each hole. Replace plugs. Replace coil wire.

I have a water seperater in line to the carb this will be changed.
Lower unit oil changed
Oil & filter changed

Thanks for the help.

Yep. Don't forget these engines have 2 fuel filters (not including the water separating filter), one in the carb fuel line @ the carb and one in the fuel pump (VERY DIFFICULT to get to, but it must be changed e very season. Also grease all fitting on the drive (also the coupler fitting inside the transom).

[badmoonrising]

I did a tutorial thread for the same engine here:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1006&hilit=winterization+tutorial

[AR72Buckfever]

Thanks for all the great information, its going to help me a lot.

badmoonrising how hard is it to align the stafts up in the lower unit after greasing without the aligning tool?
Also the tutorial thread is awesome also.
Thanks Again Everyone

[badmoonrising]

For routine maintenance you don't have to remove the drive. The fitting you need to access is inside the boat, hard to get to s,o I made an extension for my grease gun. Alignment should be checked periodically though. I got my alignment tool on eBay. You really shouldn't re-install the drive without aligning first.

[playcat]

ptt so i can find this thread again!!

[Bamaman]

I always drained the engine block and the elbow petcock on my 3.0 I/O. Never have seen air freeze.