DC battery charging and pontoon wiring

[jediger]

Given the current state of destruction my boat is in (see storage shed collapse post), I've got nothing to do but dream big about what I'm going to do to the next pontoon... Has anyone ever used something like this http://www.stealth1charging.com/ to charge all their onboard batteries from the alternator?

Trying to figure out what the wiring run would look like if the cranking battery is stored at the back of the boat and the trolling motor batteries are stored under the helm. Doable? For that matter, typically where do they run the wiring, under the deck, along the fencing? It's got to go somewhere and I'd imagine it's got to be shielded from water somehow too. The radio/fishfinder/other electronic controls are on the helm and the battery is in the back of the boat so there's got to be a connection somewhere. If you want to add something to you use a wire fishing tape or is it more accessible than that?

I figure those of you who've done full rebuilds probably know more about this then I would even want to imagine.

[curtiscapk]

I stripped everything off the deck to run some speaker wire....

[curtiscapk]

Kidding!!! You can see in this pic you can easily get to the tops of the toons from the side in between the M brackets, unless you have u shaped ones.... then I got nothing for you.

[Rascal]

Given the current state of destruction my boat is in (see storage shed collapse post), I've got nothing to do but dream big about what I'm going to do to the next pontoon... Has anyone ever used something like this http://www.stealth1charging.com/ to charge all their onboard batteries from the alternator?

Trying to figure out what the wiring run would look like if the cranking battery is stored at the back of the boat and the trolling motor batteries are stored under the helm. Doable? For that matter, typically where do they run the wiring, under the deck, along the fencing? It's got to go somewhere and I'd imagine it's got to be shielded from water somehow too. The radio/fishfinder/other electronic controls are on the helm and the battery is in the back of the boat so there's got to be a connection somewhere. If you want to add something to you use a wire fishing tape or is it more accessible than that?

I figure those of you who've done full rebuilds probably know more about this then I would even want to imagine.

I finished rigging a Premier Cast A Way about three months ago. One battery in the rear and two batteries in the helm. I did it on the trailer. I ran the 4 awg cable from the rear to the helm through a 1" plastic plumbing tube secured with plastic ties on the top/left of the starboard toon. I mounted a Blue Sea Systems Mini Add-A-Battery (7649) kit switch on the starboard side of the rear fish station and the automatic charging relay under the helm. I then ran the two 6 AWG wires to the bow for my Lone Star anchor winch. I secured these two wires with plastic clamps to the plywood underside of the deck. This would work for your trolling motor.

It has worked flawlessly in the last three months of about 4 times a week boating, sometimes in rough Gulf water. I rack store and have checked the underside and everything appears secure. The ($80) Blue Sea Kit (7649) is for a up to 65 amp motor. If you have a bigger engine than mine you might need the larger amp kit. These kits will keep all your batteries charged on a need basis (no over charging). And, no need to buy a battery charger. If you have sealed GEL batteries you don't ever have to bother adding water. I am using a 7" Garmin in the dash, a 10" ipad for navigation/satellite weather and the high amp draw anchor winch. I have a second amp gauge to check draw on the helm batteries separately and not had a voltage problem yet in over 20 trips out of about 6 hours each (knock on wood).

Kind regards,

Rascal

[rancherlee]

I have a 8 gauge wire with a 40 amp circuit breaker and a manual 200 amp switch to charge my front troller batteries, but use a 55# powerdrive troller which is 12v so it works. Flip the switch and the front 2 batteries are charging. I run the whole boat off the trolling pack and leave the rear battery for starting duty only. Normal deep cycle batteries will only charge at ~10amp with 14v feeding them so a 40amp circuit is plenty for charging 2 batteries, I have yet to trip the 40 amp breaker even when the pack is near dead.

[jediger]

Thanks guys. That's incredibly helpful! Now, I just need to hear back from insurance so I can start planning my next boat...

[JohnO]

One thing about battery switches. DO NOT switch them when the motor is running If you leave the alternator without a load on it it will burn itself up

(At least that's how it used to be. I'm not aware that it has changed but unless you are certain, don't do it)

[BobG]

One thing about battery switches. DO NOT switch them when the motor is running If you leave the alternator without a load on it it will burn itself up
(At least that's how it used to be. I'm not aware that it has changed but unless you are certain, don't do it)

That doesn't make sense. The engines electrical system is a load on the alternator. You can disconnect the battery from your car while it's running, and it'll just keep on running. Boat electrical systems are no different these days.

[babock]

Doing that on a car or boat will fry the regulator and/or other engine electronics.

If you think your regulator or other electronics can tolerate 40V of transient spikes, go right ahead and try it!