Bamaman wrote:I have friction sway control and a load leveler hitch with a set of 1000 pound bars--on my 31' travel trailer. Believe me when I say the friction style sway control won't work on a boat trailer.
I tell ya what... I have a Reese Straight-Line Dual Cam hitch on my camper. It is by far the best money I spent on camping stuff. My trailer is rock solid in gusts, passing trucks, the occasional tornado... It don't matter. Way better than the friction sway I had on my old pop-up.
Dunno if it would work on a boat trailer. I don't see why not. If you get sway with this thing, its because your trailer has come disconnected.
Tim
2001 Bennington 2575 RL with a 125 Mercury -"Pussy Control"
2002 Ford Excursion 7.3 PSD (slightly more than 125HP)
2009 Harley-Davidson Street Glide
2014 Rockwood Roo 21SSL Camper
My Project Pages: [url]http://cowracer.blogspot.com/[/url]
Word of Caution. We used the equalizer hitch on our boat trailer. The rear tires of the trailer wore out in 250 miles. I do not know if the hitch was the problem, but I do know my tires went bad fast the trip we used it on.
2014 Regency 254
Mercury 250L Verado
I'm not saying let's go kill all the stupid people.. I'm just saying let's remove all the warning labels and let the problem work itself out.
STEVEBRENDA wrote:Word of Caution. We used the equalizer hitch on our boat trailer. The rear tires of the trailer wore out in 250 miles. I do not know if the hitch was the problem, but I do know my tires went bad fast the trip we used it on.
Sure sign of not trailering correctly, or not being loaded correctly. Good example.
You should never use an equalizer hitch on a boat trailer. Technically, the equalizer bars shift weight off the tow vehicle's rear end and put some weight on the trailer and some weight on the tow vehicle's front end.
If you launched a boat into the water with the bars "sprung", the tow vehicle's rear axle/wheels could lift in the air and the whole rig could roll into the water.
Bamaman wrote:You should never use an equalizer hitch on a boat trailer. Technically, the equalizer bars shift weight off the tow vehicle's rear end and put some weight on the trailer and some weight on the tow vehicle's front end.
If you launched a boat into the water with the bars "sprung", the tow vehicle's rear axle/wheels could lift in the air and the whole rig could roll into the water.
Not if you tow with a front wheel drive Traverse.
Just sayin, because I tow every once in a while with our Traverse. Spun the tires a little bit once, but nothing too bad. No, I don't have an equalizer hitch for the Traverse either.
rancherlee wrote:What vehicle are you pulling with? if its a Truck or midsize+ SUV look into a set of LT rated tires instead of the crappy P (passenger) rated tires that usually come standard on SUV and 1/2ton trucks. LT tires do ride a touch stiffer BUT really cut back on trailer sway, especially if you have a short SUV. Otherwise shoot for the heavy side of the tongue rating, the FULL 10% or 500# which ever comes first. I can't wait for the stock Crapyear tires on my 12' F150 to wear out, the suck in winter and too squishy for serious towing.
THIS!!!!
I have a suburban that had P tires on it, At interstate speeds I would get sway. I got a hold of some Load range E tires. No more sway. End of story.
the only reason a trailer will sway is lack of balance tongue weight to overall weight ratio or broken equipment (leak spring broken etc.)
i have towed everything from boats to travel trailers, rvs to equipment trailers, dump trailers, car haulers, as a contractor for nearly 15 years i spent everyday with a trailer of some kind on the back of my truck.
before you spend a dime on new equipment, make sure your tires, leaf springs, ubolts etc are installed properly and functioning as designed, then move the boat forward as far as the truck/tongue combination will let it.
Blue Ox and Reese both make sway controls that are surge brake compatible. Nonetheless, I moved the boat forward, I'll know in a couple of weeks when I have to pull it to Tablerock if that did the trick. Took the Tahoe in for service and there are no issues with it or it's tires. Took the trailer to a trailer specialist and the trailer and tires are in fine working order. Hoping its just a weight distribution issue. Appreciate all the help.
Sam
2013 Sun Tracker Regency 254 pt3 w/ Mercury 200 Pro XS
Smithville Lake, MO
Bamaman wrote:
Sway problems on boats would most often be too light tongue weight, improper tires (including under inflation) or axles being bent (bad alignment.) Tow vehicle problems could be bad shock absorbers, improper tires (including under inflation) or worn suspension/steering parts on the front end.
It was absolutely under inflation. I have tire pressure monitoring on my Tahoe. I bought a good quality tire gauge, and they were 10lbs off from what the Tahoe was reading. I was running at 35psi rather than 45. The trailer was also low. Ran 220 miles to Tablerock lake on properly inflated rubber(50 on the trailer and 45 on the Tahoe) and had zero sway issues.
Lesson learned. Thanks again for all of the help.
Sam
2013 Sun Tracker Regency 254 pt3 w/ Mercury 200 Pro XS
Smithville Lake, MO
