Replacing Control Cables

[sunedog]

While trying to figure out my other problem in this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21602, I discovered both my throttle and shift cables are in bad shape where they enter the motor cowling. I have a 2000 Honda BF 115 and the cable sheaths on both cables has failed. There is about a 2" section where the wire in the cables is exposed. The shift cable is very corroded. The throttle cable has degraded to the point only one strand of wire is remaining.

How tough is it to replace these cables? Anyone have a good source to buy OEM cables from?

[Seon]

I bought a set for my Yamaha and another for my Mercury both outboards from https://www.wholesalemarine.com

I believe their prices were the lowest I found at the time.

[tuned]

While trying to figure out my other problem in this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21602, I discovered both my throttle and shift cables are in bad shape where they enter the motor cowling. I have a 2000 Honda BF 155 and the cable sheaths on both cables has failed. There is about a 2" section where the wire in the cables is exposed. The shift cable is very corroded. The throttle cable has degraded to the point only one strand of wire is remaining.

How tough is it to replace these cables? Anyone have a good source to buy OEM cables from?

Not usually too difficult, although you need to be pretty meticulous. Assuming your old ones were working OK, this gives you a good place to start.

Length, ends and routing all need to be considered. Rather than re-inventing the wheel (measuring, routing etc...), look on your cables for the part number and try to get the same (or similar). This will include the ends as well as the length. Route the cables the same as the old ones. This usually includes a large loop or bend near the motor.
-Do NOT zip tie your cables to any thing within 2 or 3 feet of either end.
-Zip ties in the middle are OK but not too tight.
-No sharp bends near your control box.
-Most cables are rated for 'bend radius'. Don't over bend near the motor.
-Hook up control ends first. Follow control box diagram carefully if you can find one.
-Hook up motor ends and adjust per motor instructions.

If you can't find any instructions, take pictures of your old ends before disconnecting and follow them carefully when reconnecting. There are general instructions available on the net or here on how to final adjust.

West Marine, although not always the cheapest, has ALWAYS treated me well.
http://www.westmarine.com/search?text=control+cables
There are 'universal' cables there, although you might want to look for cables dedicated for your Honda because they will already have the proper ends. Call them if you need to, they are very helpful. You probably don't need the most expensive ones, but I wouldn't cheap out here either.


Good luck and get back to us if you run into trouble.

[sunedog]

Thanks, both of you. Will be re-examining tonight and trying to locate the part number(s). I'll get some pics too.

[RcgTexas]

There are cables then there are cables. Don't know what grade you had but I would not use those part numbers again. Good ones or at least an upgrade would be my choice. Use the old ones to pull the new ones through. Just use the same length. IMHO

I found all that out a few years ago. What comes on a boat isn't always the best available.

[sunedog]

Here's a pic of the end of the cables where they enter the motor. The shift cable is the rusty one and the throttle cable is the one down to its last strand. Think I need to pull the boat out of the water to change them.

The boat is a 2001 Bennington with a Honda BF115. Found out I have an OMC binnacle control. Not sure why the dealership doesn't rig them with Honda controls. (The dealership has a great reputation and has treated me very well over the time I've owned the boat, so I think the reason is more than simply cost.)

[tuned]

wow! ur lucky that boat even moves. those are soon of the nastiest thing I've ever seen.
The cable sheath is every bit as important as the cake inside. A break in the sheath like that should result in your throttle not working, or at least not as well.
Totally agree with RCG in that you might want to get mid range cables at the very least.
You shouldn't have to pull your boat out to do the fix, although you might need to pull the butt up onto a beach and stand in the water to hook up the motor end.

[sunedog]

wow! ur lucky that boat even moves. those are soon of the nastiest thing I've ever seen.
The cable sheath is every bit as important as the cake inside. A break in the sheath like that should result in your throttle not working, or at least not as well.
Totally agree with RCG in that you might want to get mid range cables at the very least.
You shouldn't have to pull your boat out to do the fix, although you might need to pull the butt up onto a beach and stand in the water to hook up the motor end.

Funny thing is both the throttle and shifter work just fine. I would never have discovered this problem had I not been poking around on my other problem. Boat is already on the trailer now, so I will change them after I get it running.

[babock]

Get some teleflex tfxtreme cables. They are the best.

[sunedog]

Replaced both the throttle and shift cable and now my boats runs again. You can read more about that in viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21602

The job was really very simple. I am the second owner of the boat, but thankfully the dealer gave the original owner a package including the manuals for everything they rigged and the original owner passed them on to me. So it was nice to have a manual to refer to.

I have a Honda outboard, but the dealer rigged it with OMC controls. I took the cover off and found what bits needed to be removed to free the cable. On the remote control end, that consisted of a cotter pin securing a pin connected to the inner cable plus a device they call a stanchion securing the brass fitting attached to the cable outer sheath. Did the same on the other end. Pulled the cable out and measured it tip to tip. Was right at 18 feet long and each end terminated in threads so it is considered a universal cable. Was luckily able to source replacements at my local West Marine. Installing the new ones was fairly simple as well. Boat was on the trailer, but I could have done it in the water. Just would have had to go under the boat to route the new cables.