Fuel priming bulb

[Likesspace]

Hi again guys....

Time for post number two and question number two. Please keep in mind that I'm not only new to pontoons I'm new to boats in general.

When I first start our motor it takes quite a bit of cranking to get the motor started. I usually will only crank for about 4 or 5 seconds and then I'll stop and crank again.
This morning it took probably 5 or 6 attempts to get the engine to actually catch and run. Once it's started and we've ran it for awhile, all I have to do is give the key a small bump and the motor starts right up.

I've been pumping the priming bulb two or three times before trying to start the motor but the bulb never gets hard like I've read that it's supposed to. I'm a little worried about flooding the engine so I don't want to pump the bulb too many times.
I can also push in on the key to choke the motor but that doesn't really seem to do much.

Is there a chance that my priming bulb is bad and that's the reason that it's hard to start on the first start of the day? If that's the case then why would it start so easily after the first start?

Once the season is over I'm taking the boat to a local mechanic to have several things done to both the boat and the motor. Included in this will be new plugs, carbs cleaned and just a general all around tune up.
This mechanic has told me he will install a new water pump impeller and do the winterizing service, (oil change and lower unit oil change with pressure test), for a flat rate of $100.00. That sounded like a bargain to me and he comes highly recommended and is used by many boaters in this area.

Having said that, I'd like to get this cold start issue figured out before the season is over. Our weather should allow me to keep the boat in the water for at least another two to two and a half months. I hate to keep dealing with this issue for the rest of the season.

So if anyone has an idea or advice I'd really appreciate hearing it.
Thanks in advance.

Dave

[illinoid]

I would go with the new bulb, it probably has a bad valve in it and will not properly prime the system so the fuel pump has to do it causing the delay in starting.

[MH Hawker]

plus with some primer bulbs the arrow needs to be tilted up to work right

[tadams]

If you replace the primer bulb I would a good quality one from a dealer. Not one you get at walmart. Go ahead & replace the hoses, also. I have to pump my bulb 10-15 times before it gets firm.

[Likesspace]

First of all, thanks to everyone for the replies.....

I do have one question though.

Does everyone have to pump their priming bulb 10 - 15 times before it firms up?
And if so, how do you keep from flooding the motor? Are there floats in the carbs that seal to stop excess fuel from building up?
I'm just trying to understand how this works and what I should be doing on an initial cold start. Maybe I'm not pumping my primer enough and that's the reason for a hard first start.

Thanks in advance.

Dave

[Strake]

I guess I'm embarrassed to say, I've NEVER pumped the primer bulb. The engine always fires right up within a second or two. I see it back there, but never thought about it. Just turned the key ! In fact, I was wondering about why it was even there..... been doing it this way since day 1, a year and a half ago.

[teecro]

I guess I'm embarrassed to say, I've NEVER pumped the primer bulb. The engine always fires right up within a second or two. I see it back there, but never thought about it. Just turned the key ! In fact, I was wondering about why it was even there..... been doing it this way since day 1, a year and a half ago.

Never bothered with the 1st & 2nd season with the 2014 60CT that my toon came with... Then I had a 2015 75 dealership installed at the end of the 2nd season to which it was not long ago that I realized that the dealer REMOVED the primer bulb altogether!

[Bamby]

Are you setting the fast idle up on your controls? The method varies somewhat depending on what controls came on your boat. On mine you depress a big button on the forward/reverse lever and that locks out the lower unit and allows you two push forward in neural allowing extra fuel to get to the motor. Fact is I never utilize the fuel bulb myself cept when I run out of fuel, I start mine utilizing the method above.

[teecro]

Does everyone have to pump their priming bulb 10 - 15 times before it firms up?
And if so, how do you keep from flooding the motor? Are there floats in the carbs that seal to stop excess fuel from building up?
I'm just trying to understand how this works and what I should be doing on an initial cold start. Maybe I'm not pumping my primer enough and that's the reason for a hard first start.

Assuming that your 99 50CT is carbureted and not fuel injected? Anyway there is going to be a fuel pump before the carbs that in effect protects the carbs from the pressure your hand priming produces. The reason many primer bulbs go soft between use is that the contain one-way check-valves to prevent the fuel from draining back down out of the lines. If the boat is old and new to you replace your primer bulb and fuel lines as CHEAP insurance from old lines that leave you stranded...

[Likesspace]

I first want to say that I'm very impressed with this forum. Ask a question and get some good advice. That's a little different from some of the other forums I've been involved with. It's a nice change of pace.

So far it seems as if I need to change my hoses and primer bulb simply as a good maintenance practice. I'm hoping this can wait until the end of the season since you've all given me other things to try. I don't really want to trailer the boat and that might be a tough job on the dock. Since the motor runs and starts perfectly after the initial start I'm thinking that the bulb and hoses are probably in decent shape.

I had no idea that I could depress the button on my throttle lever and disengage the lower unit. I thought it was like a car......basically push the button to shift into forward or reverse. If I can depress that button and advance the throttle that might make all of the difference in the world. I've been starting the motor at an absolute idle.

Before replacing any parts I want to try a couple of suggestions that I've read here and elsewhere on the internet. It seems that each motor has a different procedure for a cold start. This motor starts so easily after having warmed up that I'm convinced it's nothing serious. If anything I'm guessing operator error is the main culprit.

Again guys, I really appreciate the help and advice. I'll be sure to let everyone know if I find a procedure that works for me.

Dave

[Likesspace]

Oh crap....one other thing....

This motor is not fuel injected. It does have carbs.

[teecro]

...If anything I'm guessing operator error is the main culprit.....

Nothing wrong with operator error as that is so easy to fix!

Hope it all works out...

[jimrs]

"I had no idea that I could depress the button on my throttle lever and disengage the lower unit. I thought it was like a car......basically push the button to shift into forward or reverse. If I can depress that button and advance the throttle that might make all of the difference in the world. I've been starting the motor at an absolute idle."

Wrong button. The one on the throttle is to shift into gear.

The one on on the middle of the handle where it attaches to the control is the one that lets you fast idle.

[lakerunner]

Some older carb Mercs like to be level when starting. My last one did

[Likesspace]

I went to the lake last night and tried shifting the throttle lever forward....yeah, wouldn't start. I guess that means my neutral safety is working.
I'm going back on Wednesday to put on a new prop so I'll look for the fast idle button, then. Hopefully that will be the key to a faster starting engine.

Thanks again for all of the information.

Dave