Thought I would JUST grease up the hubs....yea right.

[lakerunner696]

If it like the ones I have changed before you can use a long punch to get races to move a bit then use the chisel. I have had these hubs and bearings on my last 4 toon trailers and (not to be rude) If your mechanic can't drive them out then take a air grinder and a cutoff wheel, notch the race then split it

[RonKMiller]

OK, sorry. I apologize profusely.

He's not an idiot - he just obviously doesn't know shit from shinola.

It's just that I've seen SO MANY shade tree mechanics screw up such easy projects - since that's the way their grandpappy showed them how to do it.

Taking out races with a punch is crude - ESPECIALLY OLD ONES THAT ARE COLD WELDED OR "FROZEN" IN PLACE - usually damaging the bore promoting leaks past the new race and or seal. It's how amateurs do it.

Nuff' said.

[sammtoon]

Ron really? You try to do the right/good thing and you turn right around and be a smartass! I will stop posting about this, but I hate rude and obnoxious people, prior to my kids.....I would have just knocked ur ego ass out, good thing I'm a changed man! Zero reasons to be rude to someone who comes to a site for help, if they aren't doing the right way or your way explain how to do it without being degrading! I hope he found the answer he was looking for, this is a great site....I hate to lose people.

[spurhunter]

Thanks for the advice from those that gave it to help. I guess some folks just have to show their ass whenever possible.

I posted the thread to get idaes and suggestions before I went too far. Wasnt expecting to get bashed or a good friend that offered his help.

[chill'nthemost]

OK, sorry. I apologize profusely.

He's not an idiot - he just obviously doesn't know shit from shinola.

It's just that I've seen SO MANY shade tree mechanics screw up such easy projects - since that's the way their grandpappy showed them how to do it.

Taking out races with a punch is crude - ESPECIALLY OLD ONES THAT ARE COLD WELDED OR "FROZEN" IN PLACE - usually damaging the bore promoting leaks past the new race and or seal. It's how amateurs do it.

Nuff' said.

If it's how amateurs do it why do Matco, Mac, Snap on and Cornwell sell bearing punches? Not every job has the luxury of a press near by, nor the type of hub that can accept a press for removal. The whole purpose to the design of the bearing punch is to allow max. contact with the back of the race lip without damage to the bore. I've sold millions of dollars of professional hand tools over the years to hundreds of professionals who did know shit from shinola. Sold most to guy's in truck shops. Now for installing a new race I'd agree, but then again how many job sites have a press. Once again the 4 major professional tool companies sell hand race installers too, also own and used them myself too with excellent results

[yellowk9]

Wow...you guys are rough. I guess I will keep things I do dumb all to myself in the future.

A couple clarifications.

1) Troy is a mechanic, has removed hundreds of race's. For some reason the design of this particular hub does not allow access to get anything to bite onto the lip to punch it out.

2) I purchased new wheels with new tires already mounted on them. I will remove the two worst tires from the old wheels, clean and repaint those and have new tires mounted for spares. I trailer up to 4 hours away on occasion and would want at leasst two spares, four cant possibly hurt.


3) As stated, "only one of the four wheels still had the protective plastic cap in place" I find it hard to believe this is a great method since the plastic inserted caps dont stay on the metal caps.

4) Since the family wanted to go out Sunday afternoon, I went ahead and installed the new hub I bought. I left the grease fitting installed in the end of the spindle for now. I used the cap that came with the hub and its not going to work at all. The nipple sticks out so far It wont allow the caps to fit all the way onto the hub. I beat the hell out of that cap getting it on as far as I could and basicaly destroyed the cap as the nipple makes a noticable protrusion in the center. I did not try and re-use the old caps yet, I might try looking for the pastic inserts or another method of sealing the cap.

I don't think we were that rough. You asked for advice and we gave it. It sounds like it wasn't what you wanted to hear. I think the best thing you can do is just follow the advice of your mechanic if that's the advice that you trust. I think most folks on here disagree with his advice. I do think RonKMiller could have been a little less honest

[lakerunner696]

If there is no area you can get a punch to then how the heck do you get a press in there?

[spurhunter]

If there is no area you can get a punch to then how the heck do you get a press in there?

Good question.


As to another reply, I guess I made the original post too long as many of the details have been overlooked, including the fact Troy is a FREIND, who IS a mechanic. Not MY mechanic. He offereed his advice and help for free. He used to build race cars, and has fixed several things for me and others I know. He realy seems to know his stuff.

I REALLY do appreciate the advice offered and have taken note of all of it.

I think Ill just let this thread drop now.

Spur

[Bamby]

I've read elsewhere but can't recall the source where there are some hub casting out there presumably of China origin that actually have this issue. When the race is machined out of the hub due to excess thickness of the hubs casting once the original race is installed into the hub their isn't any shoulder exposed on the back side to utilize for removal should replacement be necessary. In reality it's just another example of inferior junk make in China...

[GregF]

I worked on a transmission that had this problem many years ago and I ended up using a 1/4" drill to get to the back of the race (actually 2 because the race destroyed both of them) Then I could use a long drift punch alternating between holes to drive the race out.
This was a Borg Warner and the bearing had a fly cut in the race to get it out but that was broken off when the bearing failed.
Fortunately this was the first thing that goes in the case (last out) so I was able to get all the chips out before I put things back together.