You know the drill..
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GXPWeasel
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#16
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by GXPWeasel » Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:40 am
woolznaz wrote:Drago wrote:chill'nthemost wrote:Drago, here's an idea I've been thinking about that might help you. I've been thinking about taking the carpet off of the front 3-4 feet of my bunks and replacing that section only with the slicker pads. Here's what I'm thinking. When you launch the boat, the back end of the logs are floating and only the front few feet are "sticking" to the trailer. So, this idea should allow the boat to float off the trailer with little effort. When you put it back on the trailer, it should float right on very easily too. However, when you pull it out of the water, within a couple of seconds, the rest of the logs will set back down on the carpeted section and still give that "friction" that you like so the strap and chain are not doing all the work.
This was my exact thought to. I just replaced the carpet on our bunks last year, and I still have to power OFF of the trailer every time I launch. doesn't matter if I soak the bunks first, then launch, it still sticks waaaaay too much.
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woolznaz
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#17
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by woolznaz » Fri Jun 10, 2011 12:28 pm
GregF wrote:That trailer strap should be strong enough to pick your boat up and hang it from a crane.
That may be the case, but the most important word in your post is the word "should". The straps do break from time to time. That's why most trailers have a safety chain as a back up. The straps also have a way of drying out and becoming brittle over time, then tearing to break. Most of us on here have seen or heard of the straps breaking.
One thing I've gotten in the habit of doing is releasing the pressure off the strap once I get the boat back home and in the garage. I just don't see any need for the strap to have pressure on it sitting on the trailer in my garage for 2 weeks before I take the boat out again.
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GregF
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#18
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by GregF » Fri Jun 10, 2011 12:50 pm
You still need to maintain your trailer but I bet most straps break while winching the trailer up.
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spurhunter
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#19
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by spurhunter » Fri Jun 10, 2011 1:48 pm
chill'nthemost wrote:Check this post out
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5607
I've used the bunk caps from Eastern Marine. They are 3 sided and cover the whole bunk and eliminate the carpet. The link is for them is on one of my post in the one above. I'd stay away from P.T. It's made of soft sap wood, which makes it easier to inject the P.T. Wood like Doug Fur is made of heart wood and is much stronger, then you can treat it with a preservative.

The link does not work on that thread, I am really interested in trying these out.
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chill'nthemost
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#20
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by chill'nthemost » Fri Jun 10, 2011 4:19 pm
spurhunter wrote:chill'nthemost wrote:Check this post out
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5607
I've used the bunk caps from Eastern Marine. They are 3 sided and cover the whole bunk and eliminate the carpet. The link is for them is on one of my post in the one above. I'd stay away from P.T. It's made of soft sap wood, which makes it easier to inject the P.T. Wood like Doug Fur is made of heart wood and is much stronger, then you can treat it with a preservative.

The link does not work on that thread, I am really interested in trying these out.
Yea, Spur it says the page was moved. Give this one a try.
http://www.easternmarine.com/Self-Cente ... e-86296-0/
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Drago
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#21
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by Drago » Fri Jun 10, 2011 8:28 pm
I suppose I'm just wondering how much extra stress will be applied to the strap with really slippery plastic bunks instead of carpet. I'm thinking without the strap it might be fairly difficult to drive the trailer from under the boat (not talking about launching here) on carpeted bunks but very easy to do it with any type of plastic covered bunks. Nevertheless, I'm most likely to replace all the wood and explore some of the various plastic covers rather than go back with carpet since the wood will last so much longer without the carpet. Nobody ever said trailering was low cost!
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tommyz
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#22
Post
by tommyz » Wed Nov 21, 2012 5:39 am
GXPWeasel wrote:woolznaz wrote:Drago, here's an idea I've been thinking about that might help you. I've been thinking about taking the carpet off of the front 3-4 feet of my bunks and replacing that section only with the slicker pads. Here's what I'm thinking. When you launch the boat, the back end of the logs are floating and only the front few feet are "sticking" to the trailer. So, this idea should allow the boat to float off the trailer with little effort. When you put it back on the trailer, it should float right on very easily too. However, when you pull it out of the water, within a couple of seconds, the rest of the logs will set back down on the carpeted section and still give that "friction" that you like so the strap and chain are not doing all the work.
This was my exact thought to. I just replaced the carpet on our bunks last year, and I still have to power OFF of the trailer every time I launch. doesn't matter if I soak the bunks first, then launch, it still sticks waaaaay too much.
Woolznaz / GXPWeasel : Did you ever try this idea of carpeted bunks with the plastic caps on the front ends? I'm also replacing bunks and face the same problem you described. I think front caps would alleviate that.
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