spark plugs and water seperator filter

[RonKMiller]

WOW, this thread is almost as enertaining as a "WHATS THE BEST OIL" thread! Or we could really live on the edge and start a octane thread!

The only difference between this and an oil thread is that there is actually some clarity here.

Octane is easy - if it pings bump it up. However with my engine 20 feet behind me and separated by 2000 lbs. of sound absorbing RV trailer I only wish I could hear it! But - if your plug electrodes are the correct "coffee and cream" color and without any excess deposits and not eroded you're probably in good shape.

[RonKMiller]

You got it - you have PayPal? Sorry Greg, it's a one time offer only.

Nah, just take a photo of the sawback and post it here. That will suffice.

Well,as Curly from the Three Stooges would have said: Poifect! Do you work for the Secret Service on the side?

My work is done here - I rest my case. (sigh)

[badmoonrising]

I've got a fresh sawbuck sitting right here to anyone that can show a spark plug or OEM motor manufacturer that recommends using it.

Bottom of page 3
http://www.mercurymarine.com/media/merc ... Verado.pdf

• Saltwater usage. Remove and inspect spark plugs for corrosion and
replace spark plugs as necessary. Apply a thin coating of Anti‑Seize
Compound only on threads of spark plug prior to installation. See
Maintenance ‑ Spark Plug Inspection and Replacement.
Tube Ref No. Description Where Used Part No.
81 Anti-Seize
Compound Spark plug threads 92-881091K1


I'll take cash or money order.

Yep. Don't glob it on and there will never be a problem. The manual says a THIN coating. Once again, I've seen so many messed up heads that putting a few cents worth of anti-seize on a plug is peace of mind. Pay now or pay thousands more later.

[Ron Burgundy]

You got it - you have PayPal? Sorry Greg, it's a one time offer only.

Nah, just take a photo of the sawback and post it here. That will suffice.

Well,as Curly from the Three Stooges would have said: Poifect! Do you work for the Secret Service on the side?

My work is done here - I rest my case. (sigh)

You're a good man RonK. I've actually learned much more than I bargained for.

[Ron Burgundy]

..but, I read everything you cited, and anti-seize is still the way to go for salt water use, which is where I boat.

From everything I have read it clearly states that NEW plugs come with a anti-seize metal coating so it isn't necessary to apply anti-seize on the INITIAL installation. However, once they are removed the factory applied anti-seize metal coating is no longer active.

...so if you take out your plugs to inspect them, AND you use your boat in SALT water it is only logical to apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the threads and be sure to not over tighten.



...Am I missing anything??




...besides my sawback

[GregF]

That sounds about right. If you use a "stubby" 3/8 ratchet it is pretty hard to get in trouble. Just don't go crazy. These are not lug nuts.
If you are wringing spark plug threads off like the pictures you were really working at it.

[RonKMiller]

..but, I read everything you cited, and anti-seize is still the way to go for salt water use, which is where I boat.

From everything I have read it clearly states that NEW plugs come with a anti-seize metal coating so it isn't necessary to apply anti-seize on the INITIAL installation. However, once they are removed the factory applied anti-seize metal coating is no longer active.

...so if you take out your plugs to inspect them, AND you use your boat in SALT water it is only logical to apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the threads and be sure to not over tighten.



...Am I missing anything??




...besides my sawback

1. You've already covered the important difference between high temp nickle and copper based anti-seize. Any brand will be fine, and you can buy a lifetime supply at your local hardware store for the same price you would pay for tiny "branded" tube. While you're there buy an "acid" brush to apply it. It has short, rather stout bristles and is dirt cheap.

2. Cleaning the female hole threads with a cylindrical stainless steel wire brush - the kind used to prep the interior of copper tubing before soldering - would be an excellent idea as well. Just be careful not to push any debris INTO the head. I like to screw it in part way into the hole, then directly pull it out and clean it - then repeat several times going a little deeper each time, until you have reached the ends of the threads. A final cleaning with a used toothbrush - drawing it outward - should leave the threads in pristine condition.

3. I also like to smear a VERY thin coating of dielectric grease on the top of the plug to inhibit corrosion. It also helps to ensure a good electrical contact and will often allow the rubber boot to simply pop off next time - instead of having to forcefully tug on it. I've caused myself a lot of grief in the past by having to pull so hard I trashed either the boot or pulled the lead completely out of it - even after having used a boot puller tool on it.

...and then, as professor Henry Higgins said: "By Jove, I think (he's) got it!"

[RonKMiller]

That sounds about right. If you use a "stubby" 3/8 ratchet it is pretty hard to get in trouble. Just don't go crazy. These are not lug nuts.
If you are wringing spark plug threads off like the pictures you were really working at it.

That's a great tip on the stubby!

[RonKMiller]

Pay now or pay thousands more later.

That brings back memories of one of my all time favorite commercials:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aq3wL8ZX ... detailpage

[GregF]

That sounds about right. If you use a "stubby" 3/8 ratchet it is pretty hard to get in trouble. Just don't go crazy. These are not lug nuts.
If you are wringing spark plug threads off like the pictures you were really working at it.

That's a great tip on the stubby!

That comes from owning a bunch of those go fast Chevys in the 60s with the plugs that were installed before they put the engine in. One plug on my 67 Chevelle was all "feel" and no "see".

That was also back in the days when changing "points, plugs and condenser" was almost as often as changing oil.
These days plugs last forever in cars and 4 stroke outboards. "Guilt" causes more to be changed that "performance".

[Ron Burgundy]

I checked my engine to see what plugs to get, and what is currently in there are NGK Br8HS-10. The owners manual calls for NGK B8HS-10. Do you know what the 'r' stands for?

[badmoonrising]

The part number change may just be that the old plugs have been superseded. R usually denotes resistor plugs.

[GregF]

Like Ed says "R" means resistor.
This is what Yamaha says about it

Note: *1993 and earlier models were equipped with standard type plugs (i.e., not resistor type plugs). Resistor type plugs are recommended for all models to reduce electronic interference with other devices.

[Ron Burgundy]

Hmmm. It makes sense to use what the user manual says, but the manuals dosen't call for the 'r' type plug. It's a lowercase 'r' if that means anything.

[Ron Burgundy]

Found this on the NGK website. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.


Frequently Asked Questions

Q: When should I use a resistor spark plug?

A: NGK "R" or resistor spark plugs use a 5k ohm ceramic resistor in the spark plug to suppress ignition noise generated during sparking.

NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics.

They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer.

In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion.