Installing a 3 bank charger...looking for suggestions

[Todd4]

Sounds like you have it all figured out.

Hope my past experiences were of some help to you with your project. Let us know how it goes. Good luck.

Todd

[SoCalAngler]

so, a few more questions......

what is the best method for drilling through a carpeted deck to run my 10/2 duplex cable?
Also, what is done to seal hole after cable is run through deck?

Are the auto fuse holders (ATC holders) with 30amp fuses OK, since they do not use tinned wire? The fuse holders use copper wire, and are pigtails of only 2"-3" one each end of holder. I guess I can order the Anchor brand since they are 10AWG and use tinned wire. Uh....answered my own question!!

I plan on crimping my wires with heat shrink marine butt connectors. These connectors will be used to add the 10/2 duplex to the charger leads, add fuse holders, and to add ring terminals (for connection to 5/16" battery post). I considered soldering, but I read that crimping is preferred method in marine environment.

Thoughts?
Thanks

[redbeard]

what is the best method for drilling through a carpeted deck to run my 10/2 duplex cable?

The best way that i have found is to use a hole saw to cut the carpet then use a forstner bit to go though the deck.

[curtiscapk]

My plan is to x-cut the carpet with a blade then use a hole saw on the wood and glue the carpet back down around the exposed hole... that way no chance the bit can grab some thread and start unravelling the carpet.

[SoCalAngler]

The X cut on carpet sounds like a good option.

What size hole for 10/2 cable? 1"?
What is used for chafe protection around inside of hole to protect cable from premature wear?
Where do you attach cable along bottom? I was thinking if zip tying to other cables in the area or cable clamps with screws right into deck? Any issues with this?
Sorry fir all the questions with this project; i just want to do it right the first time.
Thanks

[curtiscapk]

What is used for chafe protection around inside of hole to protect cable from premature wear?


and glue the carpet back down around the exposed hole

[Todd4]

As you can see, there's more than one way to skin a cat! Always good to have options. This is what I did:

I do not like drilling through carpet. Depending on the type of carpet you have you will snag the carpet thread (like loop pile carpeting) and pull feet of it out - ruining your carpet. A cut pile carpet may, or may not, pull out, but the backing may wind up around your bit and tear up the backing, also. Since I do not know what type of carpet/backing you have, cut through (with a razor blade) all carpet and drill/hole saw through your solid deck.

I'd drill your holes ONLY large enough to slip your wires through your deck. Try 1/2" (on a piece of scrap) for your size wire (10/2). Then completly fill the remaining hole with clear slicone sealer, top and bottom. This will keep any water from passing through and stop all movement of the wire to prevent chafing. This is how many boat manufacturers do it today. Whatever you decide to do, use some means to protect any movement of the wire through all bulkhead pass-throughs.

I'd use the Anchor brand fuse holders to get the best water protection - it's a boat. Do they come with a rubber boot and cap to protect your fuses from water splash (or are your fuses going to be inside some sort of protection (in a box, under some cover)? I hope your resetable fuses aren't too thick to fit the holder.

Crimping?...hmmmmm. Well ABYC likes crimping (so the wire terminals stay put during a fire for post fire analysis - not my first concern). There is some debate over this. I like solder - always have - always will. However, your end terminals are all crimp type with adhesive (double) shrink sleeve already attached to the terminal end so you can't solder even if you wanted to. I used the same end terminals, too, for 10 ga. and above (thinner wires). I used solder end terminals for 8 ga. and larger (thicker wires - 1/0 battery cables, etc). Then I added my own adheasive heat shrink tubing (they looked good ). My deciding factor was that I do not have PROPER crimpers for the larger (thicker wire) sizes. Don't use a pair of pliers or a hammer and chisel to crimp your wire terminals - buy a good wire crimper. You should be able to pull relatively hard on yout terminal/wire connection and it should NOT pull out, when properly crimped.

I ran my wires along the outter edge of the deck (under the deck, but near the edges, to miss the cross members). However, you'll probably have to cross your deck (parallel to your cross members) at some points. You can zip tie to existing wires when there are some handy, but I also used plastic "P" wire clamps (sold at all big box stores). This is how my boat manufacturer did it. I think I used #8 SS screws, just make sure your screws are short enough so that they don't poke through your deck . If your boat does not have underskinning then your wires have to be very secure to keep splashing water from ripping them out. Look how your boat manufacturer ran their wires for a guide (then improve on it ).

I think that about covers it. Let us know how it goes.

Todd

[SoCalAngler]

Thanks Todd and others for the replies. I'm going to start on the wiring in the next few days. Heading to Disneyland tomorrow! Kids are on Spring break so a little fun is required this week! I'll post my results when completed. If I can remember, I'll take some pics as I progress through the project.

Thanks again!

[tuned]

As you can see, there's more than one way to skin a cat!
I think that about covers it. Let us know how it goes.

Todd

Very nice, Todd...from the other Todd. I've spent a lot of time wiring boats and bands. Your understanding and advice are outstanding! Not totally sold on negative fusing tho. Carry on....

[Todd4]

Thanks Todd!

I've spent way more time than I'd like to remember on custom wiring jobs for my projects over the years (cars, trucks, motorcycles, and boats). I've made my stupid mistakes, so I don't mind sharing what I've learned (that works) with others. There's a reason why the OEM does it the way they do (durability). Once I finish a project, I don't want to be troubleshooting it forever after (that really pisses me off).

Regarding the negative fusing: MK fused the negative wires on their AC battery charger wires. I'm not sure why either , you don't see that very often, but since they did it, I decided to fuse the negative wires at the battery ends also. It wasn't much more work and I have a ton of money tied up in my 'little' electrical project, so I wanted to protect it. Something about floating bare aluminum, on a body of water, in the rain, just sticks in the back of my mind.

Anyway, I hope everything goes well for SoCalAngler. He may just be surprised by how much time his project will take. I wanna see the pics! LOL Later.

Todd

[SoCalAngler]

Here is the latest with my charger install project. About 90% complete.

Decided to solder wires.....why...... I didn't like the way the charger OEM wires (about 14 gauge) fit into a 10 gauge butt connector (my charger leads were made with 10 gauge duplex). So, I soldered wires, used heavy 3M electrical tape to cover soldered wires, and finished with adhesive lined marine shrink tubing over tape.

Charger mounted (through bolted) to a piece of trimmed down 12"X18" standard cutting board (no wood here). Then, the board was through bolted to fencing frame. Nice and strong and not prone to rot. I was a long time sailboat owner that owned a boat with a lot of teak/mahogany wood, so I like things that are maintenance free... as much as possible!!

Now, I just purchased a Minn-Kota adapter plug that is designed to incorporate the factory charger plug end into a through bulk head plug adapter. The adapter is then used with a standard extension cord. Basically, you mount the charger plug end into this adapter, then drill a hole into fencing material, mount the adapter to/through the fencing, and whoalaaa....you have a receptacle to plug an extension cord into for charging!! I plan on mounting the plug adapter about 1 foot right of the gas vent line. This keeps it near the charger and covered up by the porta-potty seat. The entire charger is covered by the porta-potty seat/carpeted board.

NOTE: Todd....I'll see if my Minn-Kota adapter fits any better than yours. If not, I'll make up the pigtail as you described.

I hope this helps others who may be thinking of how to mount a permanent charger.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions!

[redbeard]

I like the cutting board ideal I'll be using that if its OK. Good looking install.

[Todd4]

Yeah bud! Thanks for the pics. They'll really help the next guy with ideas, planning to do this (besides, I like looking at other peoples projects. ). I used Starboard for my shelf (behind my porta-potty, too; above 2 of my batteries) = $$$$$$. I agree, your cutting board idea is a good one! Keep the description (and pics) comming. Good luck.

Todd (well, one of them anyways.)

[SoCalAngler]

Thanks for all the kind comments!

I'll post pics of the finished project as soon as I complete install. I just received the Min-Kota adapter plug so I can't wait to see if it's going to fit as described.

Left to do....
Solder fuse holders near battery lead ends
Crimp or solder ring terminals at battery lead ends
Cut hole in fencing to install charger adapter

Lastly....
Figure out a way to bundle all the wires together near charger so they are neat and out of the way. Thinking about some 1'X2' elastic netting across the interior fencing (where gas vent is located...attach netting to 1-1/4" upright rails) and place bundled wire behind netting

Thanks again!

[BillieS]

I know that this is an old thread, but I like what you did here. I just purchased an, new to me, 2007 Suntracker Signature series fishing barge. It came with a brand new never installed 2 bank quest charger. I want a 3 bank. Did you run all three battery wires under the toon up through the floor to this charger?